94extreme

check your brakes as they could be locking up on you.. otherwise it's hard to tell as the symptoms aren't that pronounced.

the only problem with this setup is that if you flick your lights to bright, you'll lose all the other lights as the fogs go off when you turn on the brights. just run a completely seperate circuit for your extra lights.. it's not any harder plus you won't have to splice into any original wireing. make sure to put in an inline fuse too. it took me maybe 2h to do this.. getting through the firewall was the hardest as the main harness gasket is tight, tight, tight.. good luck.

yeah, get the bigger tool set of the two.. it's a good start. everything is metric on these trucks but if you ever replace a nut or a bolt you'll end up with the english standart even though the thread may be metric.. that's how they roll in the US. you will need a few torx and a few large allen sockets. extensions and wobbles (CVs) are highly necessary. definitely get wrenches and sockets as i have used all of them. get at least 2 or 3 10mm sockets.. it is the most common nut on the truck.. 12 and 15 are probably next.. all the big stuff is 17mm or 19mm. what barnd you get is totaly up to you.. most of my stuff is craftsman but matco, maco etc.. are very very good although very expensive. oh, don't forget the BFH!

did you read the whole thread?

it could also be badly gapped plugs but check the wires first as that way easier then having to remove all the plugs. also a MAF or another sensor's connection got bumped and may not connect. if you get the CEL then check codes - instructions are in the garage's how to's

check the codes anyway as you never know.

clean and dry them thoroughly.. let the cylinders "breath out" the gas.. it'll never start with plugs soaked in gas.

in the US you can get replacement cables at NAPA and a few others... last time i checked they were way cheaper then at the stealer's but not all that cheap.. $60-70 for the rear ones.. somewhere around $100 for the front piece. there are 3 pieces in total. as someone said above, check the drums and the adjustments there.. then readjust the tension on the cable where it splits halfway back underneath the truck. it seems to me though that if you start to have to readjust the tension then your cables are going and it won't be long before you'll need to replace them. all you need is basic set of metric wrenches for this job (the adjustment) and it's pretty easy. if you mess with the drums, do one at a time so you have one correct for reference. good luck and keep us up to date.

woot! about freaking time.

those look good man.

the stud thing is really just a rumor.. it never was a recall.. the seatbelt, the female end, is the only real recall on wd21s. the tranny cooler and frame should have been recalled too but they got away with it.

yeah, elliminate the possible alt related issues before you start chasing anything else.

i can see hit's avitar.

dextron 3 and up

yes he did. i'll merge them

alt charges at ~17V

i was CADDing at the time..

yeah.. crawl under there and have a looksy.

BESIDES THE FUSES IN THE FUSE BOX THERE IS MOST LIKELY A FUSE IUNSIDE THE HEAD UNIT.. YOU MIGHT HAVE BLOWN THAT PUP TOO.

yeah fuse, the connector.. that's where i'd start besides turning the key in the ingnition to on. lol

not another post since.

put the fob away.. use the keys. ?

you didn't search hard enough then.. i think in the past we posted milages not kms though. my old truck could do 55mi or so.. never pushed it any further. this one maybe 30mi... that's from when the light goes solid and not fading in and out.