nunya

these shores I would bet so (first pic I found) kiwipetes truck - 95 terrano from NZ

RHD=Right Hand Drive. RHD wd21s have an off center spare to the right (I assume for better viewing from the mirror). I like me some RHD goodness

The horns I personally used were just 2 wire horns, splice the power into the factory power wire-ground wire into the mounting bolt and poof! Become horny! wait... that is AWSOME!!!

I like the off center spare... very RHDish

Exactly, ain't running the Cannonball Run or anything. Enjoy the sites! And I know PA ain't cali or Texas but it's still bigger than... uh... Riboflavin?

GM full size horns make nice upgrades to the lethargic obvious-80s import horns. I got a pair from a 88/98 Royale Olds FWD on mine.

What winter it's been lame this year! Take some pics as you go, learning experience for you could be a write up/how to for many who DO fear drum brake work

nothign wrong with beign the first time messing with them, gotta start somewhere... right? if you peek behind the wheel on the brake backing plate, between the axle tube and the backside of the wheel cylinder where you see the brake line and brake bleeder you should see an oval shaped cutout (sometimes theres a rubber 'plug' in it or the metal 'cover' had not been knocked out). You can generally poke in there with a smaller flat head or the correct brake adjustment tool and feel a star wheel, that is the adjuster. Turning that wheel is what adjusts/loosens/tightens the static setting of your brake shoes (make sure to do this with the e-brake off) left side is left hand thread/right side standard thread. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/2001/br.pdf that is the link to a standard brake job from the FSM for a 2001, scan down to BR26 to start the rear brake section, might help you familiarize a little more before getting to involved

could be anything from simple adjustment issue to a frozen e-brake cable, to failing hardware/ shoe lining broken away from the shoe itself wedged, etc. Rear brakes ain't as scary as they are for some reason made out to be. There should be a small oval cutout in the backing plate you can stick a flat blade screwdriver (or get the correct brake adjustment tool, many cases a screwdriver will get you by though) and adjust the star wheel down. Might have to give the drum a love tap or 2 as well if it's gaulded onto the hub at all too. If your gonna do new shoes while you have it apart, I WOULD suggest at least a resurface of the drums to give them a true fresh surface to mate with and only pull the shoes one corner at a time so you can use the other side as a 'mirror' of what you want to do.

threw more yota parts in the back to toss in the home garage waiting for people to show up and pick up... if I would only unload when I got home

instead of a dinging sound like leaving your keys in the ignition with the door open, you hear "I will gladly pay you Tuesday for a cheeseburger today" through your stereo speakers!

Never was personally a fan of the shaved corners on d21/wd21s (even in my minitruck days), was usually a fan of making something else fit/flow. That's just me though and I can apriciate the work in doin it. Bumper on the other hand I'm digging, even the headlight obstruction ain't botherin me as much as it should. Might have to copy that lower halfs plans a little in the future, any pics of your mounting setup?

not knocking the idea but it might be easier to do a shackle lift, no worries about messing with spring perches and whatnot

looks more silver/grey to me Some people like to attract a little attention to things so when someone asks they can brag "I made it"

PA ain't a tiny state, what corner you heading to?

I liked it better when it was thought to be a "coffee time" light, I don't want it anymore now

Nope, he just has a really big tube of JB weld

Not quoting every antenna reply but... ... That IS an unfortunate inconvenience which now makes me happy that I got 2 spare fenders with normal antennas incase my future purchase has a power one

I like it just because you have a grease fitting in your idler arm (I likes grease fittings :lol; )

Can we just change the year selection to being production dates?

and affordable, you can get a brandy new AC one for 30 bucks (plus shipping) https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/idler-arm-brace-p-58.html 10 bucks cheaper than Crapmini without the fitment issues (just ask Precise1, I think he still has it linked in his sig actually). Hell you can get a standard design Idler arm for under 30 bucks on rock auto, get the AC brace for 30, be at the same price as the 'problem solver' have brand new stuff AND a brace you can REuse when you do need to replace the arm again in the future

Yup, I have. Last guy that I gave some parts to locally was actually complaining about it not lastign when we were B.S.ing (and steerign/suspension was one of the topics because that was his initial reason to visit me. He needed a UCA) and look at it's design, fails just like a tie rod does at it's point of movement

remember, I work on cars as well as tow them. I see that design fail hand over fist from the design of factory style ones.

couldn't you just swap it over to a factory standard mast antenna?