laxman0324

Here is hfxpathfinders pathy with those wheels, those were the ones i was looking at getting if i couldnt find the xterra s/c wheels

I love those wheels, and that V8 is killer

post a pic of the wheels...i know the gray 6 spoke (maybe they are 7 spoke) ones fit, another member has those

I like em...I dont like chrome mirrors but I would get them painted my body color...

who me? im sure ill have some more stupid questions to annoy you with dean...

Other than the "usual" things to look for, Pathfinder specific would be the rear control arm bushings and finding out about he timing belt being done, thats really about it that is pathfinder specific...

I also am glad to hear nothing serious happened, good luck bud...

i dont live in NH, so i dont have to worry about that

in your opinion

I have like 0 experience and need this truck to last me, so extra extra caution is necessary in my case

If it is the same amount of lift front and back you will maintain the rake, if you add an additional inch to the front like i did you will elminate the rake

Im talking the glove box thing, I agree that for a lot of people this is an important topic to discuss...I personally dont want the problem of water in my cabin or engine so I stay off of trails where water is deeper than a foot or so

Ok fleurys, heres what I have: Year: 1997 Lift: 2 inch AC coils and one inch spacer Wheel:Xterra Supercharged wheels, 17x8 unknown backspacing Tires: BFG Rugged Trail T/A 265/65R17 Notes:Needed 1.5" wheel spacers to prevent rubbing the front skid plate and the strut while turning at full lock Photo: post wheel spacers... Year: 1997 Lift: Stock springs, no spacer, no lift Wheels: Stock 6 spoke SE wheels, 15x7 unknown backspacing Tires: 3 Dominator Radial A/S and 1 Uniroyal Liberator A/T, all tires in 30x9.50R15 Notes: no issues at all... Photo: I deleted my other post to make this look more organized...

Then don't use spacers, because they got rid of the rake on my truck like they were designed to do...

No. The strut rod attaches to the upper strut plate. If you put the strut spacer between the plates you sit one inch higher since the coil sits at the same height when the weight is on it, but it prevents the strut from flexing too far and exceeding your CV angle...

If you sandwich the strut spacer between the upper strut mount plates it wont let them droop too far, otherwise a subframe drop would be necessary...

That is why I ONLY use an airgun to take bolts off, i always put on and tighten bolts by hand

front or rear wheels? rear wheels just remove the cover for the drum and hammer it through...

Go to Firestone and get a lifetime alignment for $130 like a good number of us have done. Ive had to do some extra work on my front suspension and get the alignment each time i do, ive had it in there 4 times in 2 months with not complaints...

If you look at the pictures from the subframe drop trucks that is exactly what they do. They weld in plates and put in spacers to lower everything. When they do the front they put in much larger spacers above the strut mount (4-5") and do the subframe drop components so they can maintain the stock struts/cv axles...the angles dont change and those trucks have no more flex then my 2" lifted trucks, they just sit 4 inches higher on the metal blocks and such

i drove one block once because my gf refused to drive my car when i was pretty much smashed and had the brains to pull over and say either we were walking or sleeping in the truck there...if i can feel the alcohol after an hour or so im not driving, otherwise i dont have even a buzz so its fine to drive

psh, better then music to me! wow we really kinda took this thread the wrong direction

wow you really put some thought into it...personally i would want it as LOUD AS POSSIBLE!!!!

that would be f-ing sweet!!!!

if injector cleaner dislodged something, the only thing i have heard it putting in another bottle and seeing where that gets you...