Kittamaru

Good to know At the local auto shop here, they have an upstream and a downstream one - I'm assuming ours is the downstream (just before the cat) right? Maybe their system has the specs for the wrong year, I dunno. My current plan tuesday is to tackle the oil change, check the oil pressure sensor, change the diff oil, and do the sensor checks. All of my sensors and such are the original, 20 year old equipment - should I just go ahead and replace them anyway? How about the canister and EGR and all that?

Fuel filter is done Checked my oil today and had almost none in it - noticed a lot of oil on and around my oil filter - figure a gasket or something gave way there, going to check that on Tuesday - filled with oil, figure the clean oil will draw more @!*% out and tuesday when I do a full oil change I should have a decent starting point. I need to check the two O2 Sensors, MAF sensor. Also need to check EGR Valve, Charcoal Canister, and T-Stat. Any tip's / tricks? I know O2 and MAF are listed, I'll have to search (on my way into work in 5 mins else I would here) As for front/rear diff - I've never touched those - we got a write up on here, or should I just follow the Haynes manual?

Alright, time for me to get some work done on my truck - I have gathered some tools and info and am about to dive in. Tuesday is my next day off, so today I'm gathering some more of what I need now so I have it then, and Saturday is my next day after that. Tuesday's plan - Routine Maintenance Air Filter Cleaning and Recharge - K&N Brake Fluid Check + Fill Engine Oil Change + Filter (+ relocation kit if I can get it by then) Fuel Filter Replacement Power Steering Fluid Check + Fill Saturdays Plan: Brake Check + Pad Replacement Cooling System Check + Service Tire Pressure Check / Rotation Transmission Fluid Check (+ possible change if I feel adventurous) O2 Sensor Test + Replacement (pretty sure it's bad) Things I might do/am wondering about: Thermostatic Air Cleaner - mentioned in my haynes manual - what is it and should I check it myself? PCV Valve Check Idle Speed Check + Adjustment Much of this I've done before and seems easy enough. Fluids and such are simple. I am concerned about unknown factors here - the brakes I've never done before - I'm assuming rusted bolts is a concern, any others I should know about? O2 sensor I'm expecting to be a PITA, especially since I need to find my multimeter Any tips/tricks/warnings before I dive on in?

Toby, you live in PA? Where about? I'd love to come poke around your yard - I've never even been IN a wrecker yard yet so I'm not entirely sure I'll know what I"m doing - a little first hand education would make me a LOT safer I'm sure

Hm, so now the only issue is finding a wrecker around here... living in PA sucks, lol. Absolutely nothin 'round here.

Wow... awesome news! Assuming I go to a wrecker - what all should I look for, and will they allow me to test and see if the engine works?

Realistically, how much does a VG33E engine cost (assuming it's complete, in decent condition (eg, runs), all that) I'm considering a full re-build of my VG30E... and now I'm thinking I might just look for a VG33E, rebuild that, and go that route... On a scale of 1-10, asuming decent mechanical competence (but not much experience), how hard would you say the swap was? Any specialty tools needed?

*nods* Well, I will say this - when I start her up, if I let her sit at idle before she warms up, she runs so rich that gas, literally, will be so dense in the exhaust that a little bit will start to drip out - once I've run her a few miles to warm her up, that stops, but she still smells VERY rich.

There isn't a u-pull-it anywhere near me, but I'll look around I'm pretty sure my MAF and O2 are shot - did a tune up a few months ago and it helped a lot - however, a few weeks ago, things went really wrong - dunno the exact cause of it. However, the trucks' MPG has been going downhill for a while even after the plugs/dizy/cap/rotor/wires/et al. I figure, if I'm going to disassemble the engine pretty much piece by piece, I might as well try to put ALL the parts back like new I'm fully anticipating at LEAST a two thousand dollar price tag - I know it's a lot for an old truck, but for sentimental and personal preference reasons

Aighty, so, I'm learning to drive the Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo my father left to me as part of my parents divorce - it's a stick and a VERY finnicky one at that, but all that aside. The pathy runs very rich, MPG is down to like, 12-14 on average, and the rad hose never seems to get fully hot. I have a valve cover gasket leak, at least two broken manifold studs, A/C doesn't work (pressure release keeps going off when the compressor kicks in), figure my MAF and T-Stat needs replaced, and other work. Case in point, if I just take the top half of the engine apart and do a full all out tune up, what should I be looking at doing? Since I won't have to run her as a DD, I can take all the time in the world. Plan thus far: Valve Cover Gaskets Exhaust Studs -> 350Z Studs Rockers, Lifters, and other associated parts (still researching this) Timing Belt General Cleaning MAF Sensor T-Stat Charcoal Canister PCV Valve Other Work To Do: Exhaust System Replacement (from Manifolds back including Cat + Muffler) Body Rot Repair (including large hole trying to eat my rear passenger seat) Strip, Prime, Paint, Clearcoat, and Decals (low priority) Windshield Washer Fluid tank replacement (leaks) Rear Window Defroster (half the lines don't work) What else would be good to delve into while I'm hip deep in engine? Thanks in advance!

Before you do anything else, unplug the battery, drain the system (pump brakes, turn on lights, etc). Let it sit for at least half an hour. I gave mine overnight. As was already said, these ECU's "learn" things, and if they have learned a bad habit, you have to help them kick it... resetting the ECU will make the truck drive a little weird, but should allow it to re-learn on the new O2 and anything else that was changed/replaced. Could make a hell of a difference.

I'm glad to see this thread - I will have to re-check my t-bars now... I think when I re-indexed them, I may not have put them into the anchors the whole way... would really suck to have the threads strip out on me...

Nice mod ya'll! Little over my head, but the logic seems sound

It's around $75 an hour here, and I'm assuming the mechanic that did the rebuild for my mechanic will be a douche and add extra time to turn extra profit *shrugs* I'm going for worst case here

Well, I got word today that the truck should be done tonight/first thing tomorrow. Apparently he had to send the starter away for a rebuild + cleaning (at least it'll be oil free for when I do the filter relocation)... from what I'm reading, parts cost for a rebuild is only around $45 and it shouldn't take more than an hour, tops. Does that seem accurate? If so, a rebuild shouldn't cost more than $150, right?

Here's hopin

Er, my '90 WD21 has an orange Check Engine light... 0o'

Problem is how intermittent it is... the symptoms don't seem to add up to it being the starter... I mean, if it WERE a dead spot on the starter, it wouldn't matter what I do short of banging on the starter itself to move it... but yet, sometimes it starts when I play with the key, and sometimes it starts up right away, and sometimes it DOESN'T start even when I knock on the starter... that and it never cranks slowly, but starts right up... it, literally, is either Start right away or Nothing at all Which is why I am so set on a relay or a short or something... it is so much like it works when it gets power, but sometimes it just doesn't get power.

Awesome to know That solves like, half of my issues with learning about the truck - my old haynes manual used a carbureted engine for the diagram, among other things, so the pictures, which were what I really needed, were of absolutely no help... I'm hoping a newer one is a bit better edit Maybe I'm just retarded... but I can't actually figure out how to download the thing - do I have to do it one "chapter" at a time?

Problem is I don't have an FSM I've been looking around for em, but they seem impossible for find for the '90 Pathys... and my Haynes manual seems to have walked off, so I'll have to get a new one. Thanks for the picture - i'll give it a shot

Lol, see the smiley icon when you go to post a reply? Two to the right of that (between the chain and the envelope) is the image icon. Thing is, you have to upload it to a website. I suggest a free image host like imageshack or the like

If you could get a picture that'd be great, cause, well, almost all my relays are blue XD I have 3 new things to check: A) The Relay The 12v line (I'm starting to doubt my friends abilities) C) My key I say my key because, looking at my spare, my primary key is HEAVILY worn, and has, at times, had issues unlocking the doors and engaging the cylinder... so maybe, just maybe I can get lucky *shrugs* I like to dream

Wish you could come help me do this so I wouldn't have to rely on my mechanic to check it for me *rubs hands together* but damn it's windy atm XD

Well, I replaced the battery with a brand new one (Autocraft Gold, 700 CCA @ 0 degrees, 825 @ 32 degrees, with a huge reserve, 100 bucks, ugh) and no dice... she didn't want to start. I bapped the starter a few times with an extension and she started... so I'm guessing it's the starter

heh, I know what you mean about bein in love with the truck - mine is giving me intermittent starting issues that I cannot for the life of me figure out... the extreme wind and chilly weather isn't helping as I don't have a garage of any sort to work in, much less a heated one. My mechanic is going to replace the starter monday and we hope to god that's it... but I'm already broke due to other RL issues and yeah... I dont' want her to die on me, but I can't afford life support 0o'