Kittamaru

Yeah, I get my schedule for each week the saturday before... having one day to plan doesn't give me much to work with, lol

damn, see if you can snag parts from that - I'd kill for the CV joints at this point, lol. (assuming it's compatible with a '90 of course)

Oh, the truck is up on jack stands in my garage I'm driving a Jeep GCL atm, lol. Update: I got the front wheels off in prep for checking the wheel bearings, brakes, and all that... drivers side CV Boot is ripped (again)... I don't know why as the thing is NOT lifted at all... but both UCA's are shimmed to hell and back (at least 4 shims in each). Also broke a wheel stud on the drivers side... damn thing was fused solid, even tried an impact air hammer and no dice. I finally had to use a breaker bar and snap the stud itself off... not what I wanted to do at all. I'm going to take pictures tomorrow as an update. I have some rust spots in the wheel well area to take care of. Want to see what ya'll make of the UCA setup... I think it looks wrong, but I'm no mechanic. For the CV Boot - what is the chance that I can just replace the boot and go about my business? It's probably been ripped all winter... so I'm guessing the CV Joint is going to go south soon isn't it... ugh. I'd like to go back to the shop that replaced it and beat their ass... I still haven't done transmission or coolant... was looking to do the oil pressure sending unit, but I'm not entirely sure what to take off, everthing is so thickly coated in oil. Going to have to find a way to clean it off... I see bare wire in there too (silver wire?) that's clean... kinda odd. I have the new sensor, just haven't gotten to doing it yet. The truck runs a little... odd... atm. Makes some odd noises, I'm hoping because of the crap in the cylinders (from checking/regapping the plugs and the carb cleaner) and the @!*% in the oil. Going to do the oil change as I do the sending unit. Hopefully I have another full day off next week... won't know till I get my schedule tomorrow... god I hate working retail sometimes...

So the truck IS safe to drive with only one clamp then? And thanks for the tip on the plug - I have pretty poor lighting atm so I'll try my best (primary torch burnt out, doh)

Brought it to the local auto parts store - they had a diagram of it listing the rubber part as the Sway Bar Bushing, so I'm assuming the clamps are the sway bar anchors or something like that... which they don't have. Nor do the other parts stores around here. UGH I'm going to have to try and find a junkyard with a pathy in it or bite the bullet and buy it from the dealership... And though all this... I STILL HAVEN'T FOUND THE BLOODY COOLANT DRAIN PLUGS! Lol... ugh!

Okay, found something that bugs me: That's on one side of what I assume is part of the steering system... Well, on the other side: I'm assuming it is also supposed to be clamped tight along that rubber grommet? Well, it isn't. In fact, that rubber U shaped thing is free to move around and the carrier isn't touching anything at all... what is this, is it as bad as I assume, and how do I go about fixing it? Note, the truck IS lifted off the ground (weight off the wheels) at the time. This was only revealed after removing the front skid plate.

SHE LIVES! Pulled and cleaned my plugs, got the new canister in, and hooked everything back up. She started right up... yay! She is putting out white smoke - I assume that'll happen for a while after having the carb cleaner in the engine? Also smells weird... but not sweet or like oil. Almost like she's still running very rich. Next up is some seafoam and a brisk jog around the block, then another oil drain (to flush the debris and the carb cleaner out of the system), install the new Oil Pressure Sending Unit, and after that probably going to tackle the coolant, which hasn't been changed in... well, since I owned her... *hides* EDIT: Lol, I feel like an idiot... but I can't even find the two coolant drain plugs, and my haynes manual doesn't have an image of em... lol... I think I'm going to put the truck on jack stands... might be easier if my fat ass could actually get the entire way under it...

I was using it to clean the butterfly valve/intake area... it was jet black with carbon and there's still some in there after using the entire can. What happened was I had my mom spray the stuff in while I actuated the valve and held a catch pan - unfortunately, she thought it was better to get it further in - I had my eyes closed (contacts + no saftey goggles at the time) to avoid getting it in my eyes, and it wasn't till I heard it trickling down into the engine that I realized what she was doing. By then it was too late. Damn, and I just DID an oil change... fark. Aighty, I'll be sure to change it again.

Aighty, so the charcoal canister is going to be a day late due to shipping.... picking it up tomorrow, which works since I have tomorrow off from work. Next step is to pull the plugs and check for damage/fouling/gap, double check my rotor, cap, and all that shiz. See if I can drain the carb cleaner from my engine... should be fun (any tips). Once all that is done I'm going to fire her up and see how much of a difference this has all made. Depending on the results depends on if I go all out and simply start taking the engine apart (which I should probably do anyway so I can do the valve cover gaskets and all that). Come to think of it, it'd be easier to do that now and put it back together with the e-fan and tranny cooler, wouldn't it...

Yeah, figured that hose out I was tracing the wrong hose after the turn in the picture, lol... now I just need to figure out how to fix the hydrolock, lol

If you DO empty the can (and I had to... just kept pouring out black stuff) how long should you wait before starting the vehicle?

Yeah, just found it about 10 minutes ago Lol, I feel dumb now. SO that's all hooked back up. Need to get the new charcoal canister (should be here tomorrow) but, new issue. I used an entire can of throttle body cleaner... my mom was helping me by spraying it in while I held the valve open and a catch pan... before I realized it, I heard it trickling into the back of the engine... argh. I tried to crank it but no dice, she won't try to turn. No freaky noises but no start. How long do I need to let her sit, or can I pull the plugs and crank it?

How much for the rear quarter panels (both sides) and the mid-section panels

Ok, well, just got to my mom's house and took a look - I can't seem to find anything that it could plug into there... any chance you can show (or if it is showing, circle) the plug itself? Either I'm blind or somethings seriously wrong with my truck... lol... EDIT - wait, do you have an AC on that truck? Because unless I'm seriously disoriented here, where your tube runs is right where my AC compressor is... and thus I have zero chance of getting my fat hands in there 0o'

oh my god thank you so much. I would have never found that - even with the pictures I'm going to have trouble (I have horrible lighting in my garage) The two bigger ones were fine, but that smaller one wasn't connected to anything, lol

*nods* Thanks a million man! It's the little tube that comes off the middle of the rubber hose that leads from the airbox to the intake, firewall side. I just can't find a connector for the other end of the hose... lol, it's like it leads nowhere!

Well, I managed to figure the stick shift out enough to get to school in one piece, lol. Didn't stall either. I have skimmed a fair bit of the FSM... I STILL can't see anything about this stupid tube. I'm going to post a picture of the connection for it I can find and hope for the best. Even if someone else with a 90-95 can trace theirs for me, I really need to reconnect it

In all honesty, how much help is a 2" lift when it comes to working on the truck? I'm thinking of doing the 2" BL even though I dont' currently plan to add larger tires. Mostly looking for a little more "wiggle room". Figure I might as well do an e-fan mod while I'm in there, remove the stock radiator and mount a new one + external tranny cooler, et al. However, i'm wondering if the 2" lift first would help make things easier for me to work on... Other question - if you undo ALL the bolts, can't you, literally, take the entire body off the frame? I ask mostly for access to rust and for body work reasons

Heh, yeah. Still can't find what that damned tube goes to... and my only other means of transport is the Jeep... which I'm still not comfortable driving... and I have school and work tomorrow... lol... guess I'm about to get a crash course in highway driving with a stick shift... hopefully without the "crash" part...

Aighty, well, it's 7:30 pm Tuesday and this is what I've accomplished: Broke and ordered a replacement Charcoal Canister (seems someone glued the end caps of mine on... so the filter and valves couldn't be checked) Managed to tear out a tube from the intake pipe (little tube on the firewall side) and can't figure out where the hell it goes. Oil Change Cleaned MAF Sensor I think I located my O2 sensor (just before the cat right?) but the damned thing is rusted solid (like there is no bolt, only rust). Diagnosed my exhaust system (almost all my gaskets are blown, the repair Monroe Muffler did was only putty (which blew out), so I plan to just replace it all from the headers back when I get the money) Discovered my Oil Pressure Sending Unit is spraying oil everywhere - plan to fix that ASAP (though, I can't even see how to get at it to take it out... maybe if i remove the passenger wheel and jack that side up a bit so I can get to it thru the frame/body?) Decided I NEED a body lift kit (I actually changed the oil filter thru the frame/body instead of from the top down... almost easier except for the tight fit... 2 inches more clearance and I'd be golden) Discovered more rust under the truck - plans to grind/sand that down and prime it Saturday if I can Driver Side step bar held on by one and a half frame connections (one is rusted clean through, another partway) Noticed missing bolts on my Transmission Pan, connection between bell housing and my engine, and other places (maybe they aren't supposed to have bolts there, but their opposite corners do???)

Well, I ordered a new canister, got some new tubing... problem is, I still can't figure out for the life of me where that one tube runs... I just don't see any other connections... anyone give me a hint even as to where to look? I'm calling it a night as far as working on the truck - gonna approach it with a clear head tomorrow

Problem #1: Not sure what it is... but the 1/2 inch outer diameter, 1/4 inner diameter rubber hose that comes off the small, firewall-side port on the air intake hose (the big hose leading from the airbox to the butterfly valve) is seriously damaged and the lower end of it was not connected to anything. I can't even see what it's supposed to connect to - any ideas? I'm browsing the FSM atm, but I don't have a clue what the line is, nor where to look for it, lol... I'm going to head to the local parts store and get a matching line - that one isn't even flexible anymore. Problem #2: Discovered my charcoal canister is shot - the valve up top is literally partially fused to the upper cover, but I broke the damn cover following the haynes manual instruction- pry the cover off... feh... it almost looks like it was glued on or something.

Aighty, well, the weather is holding so far, so I think I'm going to park half in/half out of the garage and do the work. I'm going to start with the air filter (since I need to wait for it to dry and all that), then do oil, coolant, and hopefully transmission. After that, I'm going to start checking sensors and such. Yay!

Uh, think I used the wrong analogy lol. I know I can trust you not to take me to the cleaners if you don't have to College still has a strangle hold on my wallet, but I'm hoping to set aside the money to start this over the summer

I swear to God if it rains tomorrow, my mother is just going to have to DEAL with me getting the garage floor dirty... lol!