Kittamaru

@ 5523 - how would you jump the relay? Rather, which of the connectors do I cross under the relay? I thought there was an emergency bypass for when the neutral position switches on manuals went bad... is this not true? Would a "bump start" work in this case?

Ever since my beloved Pathfinder failed to pass inspection, I've been puttering around in an old 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo... two days ago it decided it didn't want to start anymore out of the blue - figured it was the ignition switch/cylinder because the key spun far more freely than usual and didn't feel like it was engaging anything, couldn't even put the thing in "run" to put the windows up. So I got a new switch and changed the tumbler assembly into it, reassembled the steering column, and still nothing (though i WAS able to get the windows up now). I pulled the tumbler assembly and reassembled the switch alone and used a screwdriver to actuate it, and I could get it into run, full accessories, but the starter WOULD NOT turn. I swapped the starter relay with the A/C relay, still nothing... I also don't hear the fuel pump running. I'm not really sure where to go next with this thing, and any help would be GREATLY appreciated! I also checked the fuses under the hood, they all looked good. The starter was replaced a few years ago with (I believe) a factory-new one...

So, my wife just graduated and I'm only one more module away... and I was thinking - she has loans from two schools (two degrees as well), and I have loans from three schools (will have two degrees in the end)... how does one go about consolidating them? I saw some stuff via google but, well, I don't know what to trust or believe. We don't make a whole lot just yet as the job market... well, around here it sucks quite badly... but yeah... any advice is appreciated.

Just better looking... and with some off road ability

They estimate 18mpg highway - do recall, though, that the EPA changed how MPG is calculated (they made it a LOT more stringent). Previously, numbers were greatly inflated due to testing methods - it's, supposedly, a bit more accurate now *shrugs* Dunno what exactly they changed... maybe they actually force them to run the vehicle under a supposed load instead of on a giant treadmill?

Well, lets be honest - until we know how it performs, we can't totally discount it. Granted, I wouldn't take it into any hardcore offroading... but again, for a mid size family that needs a vehicle to get around in, with decent space and the ability to handle most weather conditions, this looks about perfect. Bonus that it can handle some light duty offroad use (something most minivans balk at)

I dunno guys... I actually was kind of thinking of making this my families first "new" car purchase... we're looking to settle down and have kids, and this would fill the need for a "family hauler" well... looks like it'd be decent enough for the all-weather we get around here, plus has plenty of room/seating for kids+gear... it seems more aimed at the family role - an SUV that can hold a minivan load, yet not BE a minivan...?

It failed inspection because the rot left a whole into the passenger compartment that "could let exhaust gasses in" according to the mechanic... bah... granted, it's also the front right mounting rail of the rear seat but meh... I don't use it as a passenger truck! I'm glad to hear this isn't as big an issue as I was expecting! Hopefully I can get the body fixed up and get her back on the road!

*sighs* Gents, I'm ashamed to say it's been almost two years now since I drove my beloved '90 Pathy... I haven't had the time or the money to do/get done the work it needs (moderate body rust that prevented it passing inspection, brakes/rotors, and a few other things). I have a few simple questions to ask so I know what I'm getting myself into if/when I actually manage to get around to fixing the old gal up: 1) I'm assuming after 2 years ALL the fluids are bad... what's the best way to drain everything as much as possible? I don't have a lift or anything, so this will all be supported on 4x Jack Stands if needed. I'm looking at Gas, Oil, Tranny Fluid, and doing all filters and as many of the lines as possible. 2) Speaking of lines - gas lines and intake lines and all that - the rubber ones under the hood... after two years unmoved, is the risk of dry rot enough to warrant changing all that tubing? 3) Tires - my BFG A/T's have about half their tread left... but I'm guessing after sitting so long Dry Rot will have set in? 4) Brake Rotors/Pads - will these rust? Now, it's been sitting in a sheltered area (a detached hand-built garage of sorts), so she's not totally exposed to the elements... but after two years... well, what am I looking to need to do? My hope is come summer/fall of next year I'll have the time and cash... but it may be another year still depending on how my job situation goes... I'll be honest... if I can't get her running... selling her isn't an option ya know? She was my grandfathers truck and my first vehicle...

What year/model Pathy is it? If it's new(er) you should be able to bring it to any shop and have them pull the codes (being OBDII standard and all)

Nah, these engines are, no joke, effin bulletproof. Find out what the pressure problem is so you don't cause any real damage, then we can look back to see if there's any pre-existing damage.

NECRO TIME So, alrighty, I'm planning my strategy for summer - I figure the very first thing I should do is (once and for all) get a transmission cooler + filter installed. I'm going to drain the transmission as much as I can (God only knows the last time it was changed anyway) and if I can I'd like to pull the pan, clear the screen and such, all that. That's probably going to be my number 1 priority - draining the truck of all fluids that I can (after all, it's just sat all winter with no stabil and hasn't been started... plus I think the gas is like, a year old already, so yeah...) From there, it's the tranny cooler + filter. My question on this is, where exactly do I put it? I was looking at dropping it in front of the Radiator, but it seems awfully tight in there... but looking through the threads it seems like it's where you guys have put it, am I right? Any recommendation on type? I know there's tube+fin and stacked plate... what's better in terms of longevity?

Wait, ya'll are in PA? Sweet... I'm Harrisburg! Lol, but sadly my girl is out of commission till summer

I've taken a light hammer to most of the underbody - thankfully, a good bit of my undercoat is still there, so I think I've gotten off easy. HOWEVER... I want to do this RIGHT... and to do that, I assume I must remove the carpet and visually check everything from the top... how do I go about pulling out the carpet (and while I'm at it... how hard is it to get replacement carpet... since mine is... rather dirty/tattered...) I'd assume the seats have to come out, right?

Heh, B, that's the funny bit - what's currently there is virtually not there anymore. 21 years and counting in eastern PA, with the salt and stuff they put down... I'm surprised my underbody rust isn't worse... I'll see if I can get a measurement from another location though Any recommendations for sheet metal suppliers? No good scrap yards (or even U-Pull its) near me sadly

Oh, my exhaust is just fine... that's the really stupid bit. Not one leak the whole way back... yet it still won't pass -_-; Bastards... lol... On the plus side, I managed to replace my sway bar anchors before it went out of inspection... I'm hoping that solves my "death wobble" issue, as my CV's and pretty much entire front end were solid other than that *scratches head*

My only concern with that is the seat mounting - does it have to be terribly precise, and how strong (thick) a piece of metal should I use? I had a friend suggest using a thicker cookie-sheet... is that viable?

So, yeah... my beloved pathy has been off the road for the last 4 months or so... my bloody shop won't pass it on inspection because of a silver dollar sized hole in the rear that could "let exhaust gasses in"... fskc... I'd just bondo it, but the hole is (in)conveniently right where the rear passenger seat mounts to the floor... and that area is rusted all to hell. Frame is solid though, as is most of the under body. As such, the Pathy is stuck sitting since late summer and will be there until spring/summer this year when I can work on it (assuming I have a steady job... damned seasonable positions aren't helping me much atm). The plan is to either do it myself, or get someone to do it for me, but weld in new pieces (possibly cut from a JY pathy?) to match the damaged material, and then prime/undercoat it from the bottom and remount the rear seat. Only reason I care about the rear seat at all is I want to have it for when I (eventually) have kids... While I'm at it, I'll probably do an engine once-over, fluids (tranny, oil, etc), and other more major stuff that I've not had a chance to get to. My question is... should I drop the fuel tank and clean it out? There's less than a quarter tank in there IIRC, and it's been sitting since summer... and idiot me forgot to put fuel stabilizer in there... so I figure it'll be bad by the time summer comes around again, right? ATM I'm driving a '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo... and let me tell you, we got a quarter inch of snow the other week and that thing SUCKED... absolutely terrible... open rear diff + straight 6 + stick shift + all-season tires doesn't even BEGIN to compare to my beloved Pathy's BFG A/T paired with a LSD and it's auto... ugh, I really don't feel confident in that Jeep at all... *sniffles* I want my baby back...

Mm, true... I wonder what a good paint gun costs... I'm decent with a spray can, and can get an even coat on small areas, but never tried anything as big as a vehicle before, lol.

Well, as I get nearer and nearer to having my truck back on the road, I have to consider the last thing I need to do - with all the rust patches I'm going to have repaired, I will need to re-do the paint. After 20 years, I doubt I could accurately color match it... so... What I want is to do a full strip and re-paint, original color (a metallic dark grey w/ silver specks), same decals, etc. Now, is this doable via spray-can, or is there a better method I could do at home? Obviously environmental concerns would arise from mass-spray can use (not to mention having a silver driveway afterwards, lol) as well as sanding down the clearcoat and paint. Can I clear-coat it myself after I repaint it? Or is this something best left to the pro's, bending over and just taking it in the wallet?

You should totally do a write up on that!

it's still the auto-makers fault... for using parts that have a penchant for failing

Ilithi_Dragon

Eh... true...