Kittamaru

Damn I wish you could come teach me what you know... lol. For that matter, wish I had the spare cash to take some mechanic classes... doh.

Oh, it's already BEEN replaced lol. I just thought ya'll would get a kick knowing just how superior Pathfinder parts are to Jeep parts. Still, though, one thing bothers me - why would the ECU give a "charging system malfunction" code and NOT the "charging system low voltage" code?

Well, long story short - the alternator was overheating and the windings were actually expanding and pulling away from the armatures. I asked my mechanic WHY that would happen, and his response was basically "Well, the truck IS 16 years old - the coatings that are supposed to prevent that have worn away" To which I replied "Well, then why doesn't it happen to my Pathfinder? Older, more miles, and more strenuous use?" To which he said simply "Good ole' American Engineering", pointing at the Jeep (a Chrysler vehicle). DOH!

Actually, they make systems for that... heh. And I didn't mean a loud clang or anything - more like a nice, solid *thunk*, and I was out

They are actually a little odd - they have a second full section of metal added to them in addition to much thicker and deeper-reaching welds. They should hold up FAR better!

Precise, that's the most stupid, absurd, and outright simple idea I've ever heard You are a &^%*ing genius and I love you forever....!!!!! Doh, why didn't I think of that. LOL! I'll give it a shot and tell you what I find tomorrow

I was thinking that we should do a google-map of where everyone lives - I thought we had one before, but I can't find it now (search shows no results). Good idea/bad idea/waste of time?

I just replaced the sending unit (a pain in the ASS as the previous one had been cross-threaded, and I had to be very careful re-threading the thing, god what a bitch that was) so I don't think it's that. Cam seals... I don't believe so, but I'm not 100% sure. I haven't actually thought to double check those. I'll take a look tomorrow (I work all day today, ugh)

Are you sure the Auto's won't engage if you can't move at all? this last winter, I got high ended on a snow bank in 2WD - couldn't go an inch forward or backwards. I locked into 4WD Low and feathered the throttle forward, and with a nice clang the front hubs locked in. Put the pedal down halfway and clawed my way out slowly but surely. Maybe I was just lucky?

I wasn't able to leave the neighborhood (not inspected, and thus tags are out of date) but that's comforting - I'll have to hope that's it for now As for the fluid - it's... well, it's everywhere. On the pan (oil and tranny), on the bottom of something attached to a belt (I think water pump), on my sway bars, crossmembers, CV axels. Literally, everywhere. Like it's spraying out. Stupid thing is, the oil level is normal, coolant level is normal, ATF level normal, Brake and Power Steering fluid levels are normal... I don't know where in gods name its leaking from 0o'

Heh, once you're done up there, want to come down here and help me out? I'll pay for drinks and food and put you up lol

It's black with dirt, beyond that couldn't tell ya. Doesn't smell sweet though, so I'm guessing not ATF or Coolant? As for the brakes - why would they make noise even when I'm not pressing the pedal? That's what has me worried. I mean... the best way I can think of to describe it is how when a bike tire goes off center and rubs against one of the brakes - that swishing sound every time the "bent" part of the rim hits the rubber? Well, imagine that, but metal on metal. Pics will come... well, as soon as I can (hopefully friday)

-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK----- Version: 3.1 GCS/GO d-(+) s+:+ a--/? C++>++++$ ULU-->++ P? L>++ E? W+(++) N O K- w(+++) O- M+ V-- PS+(-) PE+(-) Y+(-) PGP- t+++@(t*) 5+(-) X++ R+++>$ tv+(++) b++ DI++ D+(++) G>++ e*(+)>+++++$ h--- r+++ y+++ ------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------ Heh, just made my geek code for my facebook page - www.geekcode.com if you're interested

Well, the good news is good - the new sway bar anchors are installed (and boy are they perty!), the new evap canister is installed and functioning, and all the plugs, wires, and other top-end electronics are re-checked and serviced, functioning as they should. The bad: Taking her for a test drive after doing all that, I discovered an interesting sound - like metal scraping on metal. It's coming from the front end, and I presume its the brakes. The reason is that I can "feel" whatever it is in time with the sound when I put light pressure on the pedal. In addition, it feels as if the rotor is warped or something (it pulses when I press on the brakes). Thing is, it wasn't doing this 3 months ago when I parked her and began repairs. I haven't played with the brakes at all (though I did remove the front wheels to inspect them, didn't do anything though, but in the process I broke a left-front wheel stud off at the halfway mark - damn thing looks like it was welded to the lug nut, ugh). My question is, what could have happened while the truck was sitting, undriven, that would do this? Could a brake caliper have rusted over and frozen extended? Air in the system? I'm kinda at a loss, an at the moment don't have the time (or present knowledge) to dis-assemble the brake assembly and check - once my mother gets around to actually cleaning out her garage (I don't have one I can use at my house) I might be able to o so, but at present I've been doing a majority of the work outside or on the dogs side of the garage (yes, our dogs get a side of the garage, and the truck doesn't. ) Second issue - there is some fluid all over the bottom end of the engine... was there when I parked her, but I cleaned it off. Now, I HAVE started her periodically between then and now (to keep everything fresh and such) but I haven't driven her or really revved the engine. I have a hunch what it is, and where its coming from (seems to be motor oil) and I know I have a slight valve cover gasket leak (but not bad enough that it sprays out, even under high RPM's)- looking under the truck, I see a bit of rust on the barb where what I can only assume the coolant pump hose attaches to the pump itself. I'll try to get a picture when I have a chance, but any other thoughts on this would be helpful - and yes, I've done a visual inspection from the top and there's no obvious location I can see (though that doesn't mean anything). Damn, I wish I lived closer to ya'll as I'm way out of my league here. That or I wish I had the money to just put the truck in shop and have the dealer fix it properly, lol. Ah well, if nothing else I'll learn eventually, right?

The Overworked Plaster Is Crumbling ASSES

Oh wow... uhm... *rubs neck* I hate to say it, but that is just a little bit over my head 0o' Maybe I'm just tired - I'll take another look in the morning, check the jeep, and report back

I had Adv. Auto do so, and they said it was the alternator because of the fact only 12 volts were being put out... however, it will put out 14 at any RPM if I exceed a certain RPM, which makes me think something else is mucked up - is there any way to test JUST the alternator output (before voltage regulator or anything else?)

Thanks man, I appreciate it! ATM the Jeep is my DD while I do the work on the Pathy... so yeah, atm, I have no vehicle lol. I'm charging the battery every night to get me to and from work, but I know that can't be good for the battery and I'm sure it'll stop working on my soon

*nods* I guess I should be more explicate: These are the front sway bar anchors I'm talking about. One of mine, literally, snapped in half a few years back and I only discovered it this year (I'm guessing a few years back because of the extent of the rust damage on the broken parts)

@ tmoore4512 - I plan to take her off roading once I get some other stuff done, but it'll be a year or two at least (especially with school and everything). For now, I want her back as my DD until I can get a car for that @ ahardb0dy - I hate to say it, but I'm not 100% sure what I'm looking at there - I'm assuming the second or third one down is what I should be looking at? I have the mounts now, just looking to coat them with something to protect em from rust

UPDATE - so far, I've soaked em in WD40 and used a wire wheel. I've gotten most of the rust and paint off (probably should use something more potent than WD40) and tomorrow I hope to finish them off, then clean and coat them. I have some rustolium paint - I figure two or three layers of that should be sufficient, as they are mostly hidden by the splash guard. Think that'll work?

They came while I was away, and I'm working on cleaning them up now - they are original ones (no beefed up point) and I'm looking at ways I can improve them while lacking a welding torch of any kind - I'm semi-considering buying one, but that requires money (something I'm lacking, lol)

So, my fathers '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo has become my DD while I do some body work and other repairs on the pathy... however. On the way home from our anniversary trip, the CEL came on and my power meter was dipping down to around 9V. I feared the alternator, but being a '94 we had no way to check (not OBD2)- keeping the RPM's higher made the power meter come back up to 14V, but it would slowly slide back down, forcing me to rev to (holy @!*%) over 4500 rpm (which, in 5th gear, would have been around 120 or so MPH I think). In the end, I made the last 100 or so miles of the trip in 3rd gear just to keep the damn thing powered... Anyway, pulled the codes via the light blink test (got a book for it) and got the following two codes: Code 12 - Battery Power to PCM was disconnected (Problem with battery connection. Direct battery input to PCM disconnected within the last 50 ignition key cycles) Code 41 - Problem with Charging System (Occurs when battery voltage from the auto-shutdown relay is below 11.75 volts) but we did NOT get code 47, Charging System Voltage Too Low... So... yeah. Confused as all hell... all connections looked good to me, and the voltage regulator is built into the PCM, so I hope to god that isn't it... Looking for some advice on what/where to start, as I can't afford not to have a vehicle while I fix the pathy!

Just wanted to double check: In my thread here it was mentioned how Nissan reinforced the sway bar anchors at a weak point - was curious when/what year they did this. Also, are the 1990 and 1995 sway bar anchors interchangeable? Was wondering because DOA mentioned he had a set of '95 ones layin around and I didn't see anything helpful on Google (she's been letting me down recently actually... )

Oh, I don't mean to imply I have a problem with Pathrider - quite the contrary, now that the e-mail thing has been sorted, it's smooth sailing! I know he's sent it - it's USPS I'm worried about - is there any way for me to find out where they are now? I mean... it HAS been over 3 weeks in their hands... so, yeah, kinda wondering what they're doing with it... They better be powder coating the damn things is all I can say, for as long as it's taking them And to think, when I worked at UPS, we considered USPS competition... hah!