Kittamaru

All sorted out No problem Pathrider - I understand the e-mail thing completely. Rest is taken care of via PM's - feel free to delete this post EDIT - again, just started to get nervous is all Partly because I have a tight time "budget" and partly because... well, I'm one broke azz college kid, lol. (especially after having to replace our washing machine, ugh!)

idle air control valve? Have you checked/played with the idle-adjustment screws? Maybe check/clean the MAF and T-stat? *shrugs* just what I can think of

Aighty Pathrider... need to know you're alive over there! You said 3 weeks ago the UCA's would be shipped, then sorta vanished; just wondering what's going on I really want to get the work done on my truck while I have my summer break free to do said work *pokes with stick* Heh.

To be honest, I'm &^%*ing impressed... this shows that A) they care about their customers enough TO knee-jerk about a POSSIBLE problem (oooh, a faulty fuel gauge and a brake pedal that wears out... scary... least the accelerator comes back up ) and They are ready to take action to fix said issues Bravisimo!

Heh, that's the thing - it's only on road I'm worried about, with wet/dry traction. Once we get any snow or ice, I plan to swap tot he BFG A/T's

Huh... mostly I'm looking for a wet/dry pavement tire... no off-road ability at all. I mean, the BFG A/T's serve me plenty off road and in the snow so yeah.

Heh, what exactly is an M/S tire then? I just realized I was confusing M/S and M/T... doh

Well, my question is mostly this: If I get a good set of street tires (an all season or something) and just run the BFG's for winter / off road, would it work out? I'd assume decent street tires cost less than decent A/T's, plus they would have less road noise right? Rims I expect the cost for, but I'd have them for later on as well They're a one-time deal

I'm contemplating retiring my BFG A/T's for the summer (since I don't plan to trail run any this year while I do repairs) and find a nice set of street tires... I do plan to get a second set of wheels, so they'll both be mounted and balanced and, come winter, all I have to do is mount the BFG wheels and I'm set for snow. My question is two fold: 1) is the tread life of a street tire that much better than an A/T? 2) is the MPG increase / rolling resistance decrease of a street tire over an A/T worth it? I'm wondering if I'll save money over the long term doing this as I'll save wear and tear on the more expensive A/T AND get better MPG in the spring/summer/fall... but how true is this? Assuming it is true: I've looked at dozens of tires on a handful of websites... any good suggestions for a comfortable, good-quality street tire that wont' let me down in the rain? Nice, comfy, stable ride with good traction Too many variables for my brain to comprehend at the moment, lol. Need to narrow the field a bit.

Niiice!

*nods* That much I knew - I must say, brass gap checkers are kinda hard to find around here... and the one I did find is kinda... flimsy.

Thanks a lot Lol, re-reading what I put, I realize I said my haynes manual says .052, not .032... doh. No, I've just seen so many different numbers thrown about that I wasn't certain which was right I have them gapped to .035 atm, so I'll close them up a tad

I've seen so many different numbers for this that I am now highly confused... my Haynes manual says .052 but I've seen everything from .035 to .060... NGK iridium plugs, just want to know what it SHOULD be, lol

Weird... I don't know HOW the bulbs would have any effect on this... they shouldn't be getting power when the brakes are pressed... should they?

Oh, aighty I had taken one of my existing relays out to look at it and was a little confused - was wondering how I wired up the prongs and what I did with em after that. Should have figured that it wouldn't just come like that

Nobody has anything to add to this?

Mine doesn't have the locking Lugnuts thank god... just normal ones Or are you talking about for the studs themselves?

Anyone have some pictures of how they install the relays? I want to do this on my gal, but I'm not really sure how/where to put the realy - are there extra slots anywhere to use, or do you just build a holder for them? Also, I'm assuming the obvious - cover the exposed ends of wire and all that... but do I need to run from the Alternator, or should I just run from the Battery feed? I figure if I run from battery, I'll have power even if the engine is shut off, correct?

*nods* if I have a basic walk through and feel I can do it (cause I need to do it) I'll take pictures along the way and write it out in what will undoubtedly be as simple terms as possible... after all, I'm a simple person lol

Just out of curiosity - anyone who has done this - would you be willing to do a write up? Assuming replacement of cup and tension rod + bushing I'm looking at my Haynes manual... and truth be told I'm not really sure what it's telling me to do 0o' Lol... don't want to start removing parts till I understand how/where they go back together.

Yeah, thing is, like I said - best I got is an Oxy/Propane (or Oxy/Mapp if I can find the MAPP gas) torch with about 10-13 minutes of gas... lol. Somehow I doubt that'll be much help here. God... wish I could buy myself a nice mini-mig or something... my welding class is going to waste and with no way to practice I'm sure I'm hella rusty...

I hear ya - mine wont' pass inspection ttill I get the holes in the body fixed under the rear seats... ugh. Plus, now, I have to do this... and I don't know if I can weld the new parts in with my pitiful little propane/oxy torch...

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