Kittamaru

@!*%... looks like this is what I need to do to fix my death wobble... great, lol. Should be fun, especially for someone like me with, at best, no real welding skills and a meager Propane/Oxygen welding torch.

I'll never so much as TOUCH Bosch plugs... they have a tendency to fall apart in the socket...

Damn... aighty. Out of curiosity - why do they want to re-finish the rotors? I mean, the pads are low, but it's not grinding metal or anything... ist hat normal nowadays?

Was just quoted $850 from the dealership for the work my wife's subaru legacy GT needs: Brake job all around (pads + resurface rotors) 60,000 mile check (all fluids, filters, tire rotation, some stupid number of points inspection, plus other things I don't remember what all he said they do) New belts (current ones are cracked, which I checked myself and knew going into this) Does that sound right? Seems high to me... only reason we're doin it at the dealer is A) my local mechanic has lost his mind and it's under warranty...

Just out of curiosity - how difficult is something like this to get right? I mean, my biggest fear is doing this and all of a sudden I get into the truck and *crack* my leg goes thru the repair job... heh

UPDATE: Work Completed: Oil Pressure Sending Unit 2x Oil Change (to flush @!*% out) Cleaning Buttefly Valve/Intake Manifold Air Filter Cleaning Air Box Cleaning Charcoal Canister Replacement Fuel Filter Replacement Work In Progress: Remove old exhaust shielding (which is falling apart) Work To Be Done (short term): Drain, Flush, and Refill coolant Drain and Fill Tranny Fluid Install External Tranny Cooler Determine why fog lights are not working Repair Fog Lamps Replace broken sway-bar anchor Replace O2 Sensor Repair Rear Defroster Screen Work to be done (long term): Replace CV Boots with higher grade ones Determine why the hell my right front wheel will not align right (3 shops and it's STILL wearing the tire lopsided... I fear the A-Arms are bent) Replace Exhaust System (from the headers back) -Includes new cat + muffler, high flow Fix Exhaust Leak (broken studs) Replace Valve Cover Gasket (leaks) replace/repair damage to IFS system (A-arms specifically) Check PCV Valve Tests to be done: Test MAF sensor Test/replace Relays Whew... a fair bit done, and a lot left to go! But I'm slowly starting to feel like I'm making progress!!! Question - the original heat shielding on the exhaust... it's asbestos isn't it... lol... EDIT - I went back out and started her, let her idle till she warmed up and noticed a lot of white smoke... no sweet smell, so I'm assuming I'm burning oil somewhere... great... lol...

Well, good news is that she started. Oiled her up, new filter and oil and all that jazz. The sending unit seems to be working fine (light went out once the system re-pressurized). Engine is running smooth (if not a little noisy). Still running rich... or maybe it's just because I had the garage door shut, dunno. Anyway, I have to put her back together and move to the other side of our garage ASAP (read, tomorrow), and then tear her apart again. Would it be helpful to put the truck up on 1 foot high ramps in the rear and jack the front up to allow me to work under her?

So I got an Oil Sensor Socket, and pulled the old one out... and the new one will not go in. Old one threads back in fine. I took it back figuring it was the wrong size, and they showed me something that mortified me... The goddamned threads are damaged, and they think someone over-torqued it... only one person ever replaced that sensor, and I swear to god he's NEVER touching my truck again! So, I have a dilemma - do I re-tap the threads and risk having metal shavings on the inside of the oil system, or do I simply force the new one in, damaging it's own threads? Ugh... this SUCKS. EDIT - so, I managed to get it in... I don't know if it's in RIGHT or even in the entire way... but fskc it it's in and it seems to be sealed so it's fine for now. Once other more pressing things are taken care of, I'll have someone look at it. Unless one of ya'll wants to come check it for yourselves I still say it's the wrong item... it looks different from the one I took out - longer threads, thinner "base", and I swear the threads are slightly closer together... but meh, whatever.

Don't PM Magregor again He's already doing a set for me complete with pictures on how to remove the body. Once he has it done I'll host it and/or repost it here for sticky and move to the How To's Tops to ya Magregor!

Hmm... any way you could teach me that trick to popping a hood from the outside? *grins* I think reversing his spark plug wires would give him a nice surprise... lol...

In that case, I advise you to check/replace the Fuel, Air, and Oil filters (plus the oil itself) asap - probably full of dirt and dust. If possible, remove the airbox and clean it as well (be careful, there is a pad inside that shouldn't get wet and is held in by two bendable braces, be VERY gentle). I reckon a good cleaning inside and out is in order

My opinion is thus: Censor NOTHING... censorship promotes backdoor policies and illicit operations. instead, regulate it. Obviously do what you can to keep adult things out of kids hands, but the parents need to accept responsibility here... Sure, go ahead, publish that book on how to build a nuclear bomb. 99.999999% of people don't have access to the materials to do so anyway. Those that do, don't need the book! 100 ways to please your wife with just your tounge? Sure, why not! Might not appeal to people, but hey, dont' like it, then *GASP* DON'T F***ING READ IT DUMBASS! Best yet, follow a simple rule - if it infringes on the rights of others, then something is wrong. Take the Westborough Baptist Dickheads, er, I mean Church. They need censored. Why? They infringe (consistently) on the rights of others, especially with their funeral protests. Censorship would be kind IMHO... they need to be castrated with a rusty spork while forced to watch modern childrens cartoons as fire ants march up their anus and bite them from the inside out... bunch of bastards they are. Now, obviously some common sense: If it's ILLEGAL, it probably needs controlled (thus, no rape/murder/drug production How To's) If it's IMMORAL, it probably needs a warning label and some form of ID for acquisition. If it's KINKY, then the seller should pay attention to who the buyer is. If it's PRONOGRAPHIC, it needs an initial warning page + DOB check. Here, parental guidance is a must (if 12 year old Tommy wants to see titties, he's going to find titties somehow) Basically, some common sense would be nice... but full censorship is just too much. Do we WANT to end up like China?

He was just generally raggin on pathy's saying how Fords are superior in every way... best part is he's like, 17... really pissed me off. I asked him a few questions to try to gauge what he really knows... What kind of axels are you running? His answer: Locked What did you do to seal the engine and ECU against water? His answer: Something about it being factory sealed, an option ONLY available on his year and some other stuff How did you overcome the loss of power from such oversized wheels? His response: What loss of power? I'm starting to smell BS here... or am I way off target?

I have a friend at work claiming to have a stock F150 (I forget what year he said) that came with a locking rear diff, 2WD, sitting on something like 48" tall 16" wide Super Swampers that sits at least 4 foot high... he also claims it can out wheel any pathfinder... I think he's full of @!*% myself... but just wanted some input: What is street legal in NC? He claims it is legal down there... but I take issue with that myself. Meh, just thought I'd ask.

I'm pretty much in the same boat here - lost a front stud getting the wheel off. I plan to replace all mine once I have the chance... though I don't have a press... or snap-ring pliars... or anything really... lol...

Oh snap, really? I'd love you LONG time if you told me how to do a rebuild! This is the second time in under a year I've had this happen... I think it's the shops fault since the truck isn't lifted at all and the angle LOOKS fine to me!

I think on the pathy it's a trigger switch - I've noticed on mine it only does it when either I hit the gas REAL quick, or when I push it down to the floor rather quickly. I know it has something to do with how fast (not how far) you push the pedel. Does your Power light come on on the tranny auto/power selector when you kick it?

Possible burning from hot exhaust gasses - check under the carpets for scorch marks and check your exhaust tubing for blown gaskets and leaks.

I'll have to take a close look at the wiring - I'd swear I saw exposed silver, but that wouldn't make sense would it? Anyway, I can't do jack till wednesday (my next day off) and thursday (my second day off) so yay two days off in a row... BTW - how difficult is it to replace a wheel? One of my studs broke (I swear someone welded my lug nut to the stud) and I know driving on 5 is fine in the short term but it makes me nervous...

Mate, you'd be better off getting a Sentra or Maxima if you want something for fuel economy and comfort Even the Altima is a good cruiser... real comfy to drive in, especially with the butter-smooth CVT system. God I want one for my DD

Wish we had one near us... lol. That is what I call customer service - going the extra mile

Ah, so it has a special socket then? Maybe that's why I was hving issues finding one that fit (here I thought it was just my twit father had lost his sockets while drunk or something)

What kind of performance gains do these things actually offer to our older trucks? I've been tempted to get one for my '90 if/when I get to the engine rebuild and/or VG33E swap (depending on which I go with)... are these really worth it?

Aighty, so I'm staring at this damn thing... and two questions dawn on me: A) How do I remove it. I dont' want to damage the wires or anything, and it's so covered in @!*% that I can't really tell what's what. I plan to clean it before I remove it, but where exactly does it disconnect? I don't really see anything that looks like a connector 0o' 2) Do I have to drain the oil first? I'm assuming yes, but just wanted to double check.

Aighty, doing some digging online, I'm seeing that AutoZone has lifetime warranties on their CV joints - would they be decent quality? How difficult (from 1-10) is it to replace the CV Joints?