Kittamaru

Well, my question is mostly this: If I get a good set of street tires (an all season or something) and just run the BFG's for winter / off road, would it work out? I'd assume decent street tires cost less than decent A/T's, plus they would have less road noise right? Rims I expect the cost for, but I'd have them for later on as well They're a one-time deal

I'm contemplating retiring my BFG A/T's for the summer (since I don't plan to trail run any this year while I do repairs) and find a nice set of street tires... I do plan to get a second set of wheels, so they'll both be mounted and balanced and, come winter, all I have to do is mount the BFG wheels and I'm set for snow. My question is two fold: 1) is the tread life of a street tire that much better than an A/T? 2) is the MPG increase / rolling resistance decrease of a street tire over an A/T worth it? I'm wondering if I'll save money over the long term doing this as I'll save wear and tear on the more expensive A/T AND get better MPG in the spring/summer/fall... but how true is this? Assuming it is true: I've looked at dozens of tires on a handful of websites... any good suggestions for a comfortable, good-quality street tire that wont' let me down in the rain? Nice, comfy, stable ride with good traction Too many variables for my brain to comprehend at the moment, lol. Need to narrow the field a bit.

Actually, I normally use a Gillet Fusion Power razor (the 5+1 bladed one)... works a treat, but sometimes I only have time for a quick slice n dice, and I use my electric

Oh dear god, what have I done...

No no, I meant I cut myself for the first time while shaving, lol... my bad, grammar ftw. And I'm 21 btw Only pimples I get are on my forehead from my hat I have to wear at work lol

I normally shave via a regular razor, but I do so in the shower (best time to do so, as it softens your facial hair and reduces irritation - I have rather sensitive skin all things considered) and without a mirror... so to cut myself is no big deal, it happens from time to time. But to cut myself with an ELECTRIC razor? WTF? lol

As the title says... I cut myself today while shaving for the first time... yeah, nothing special I know... except... I was using an electric razor... with a screen... wtf?

Niiice!

*nods* That much I knew - I must say, brass gap checkers are kinda hard to find around here... and the one I did find is kinda... flimsy.

Thanks a lot Lol, re-reading what I put, I realize I said my haynes manual says .052, not .032... doh. No, I've just seen so many different numbers thrown about that I wasn't certain which was right I have them gapped to .035 atm, so I'll close them up a tad

I've seen so many different numbers for this that I am now highly confused... my Haynes manual says .052 but I've seen everything from .035 to .060... NGK iridium plugs, just want to know what it SHOULD be, lol

Weird... I don't know HOW the bulbs would have any effect on this... they shouldn't be getting power when the brakes are pressed... should they?

Oh, aighty I had taken one of my existing relays out to look at it and was a little confused - was wondering how I wired up the prongs and what I did with em after that. Should have figured that it wouldn't just come like that

Nobody has anything to add to this?

Mine doesn't have the locking Lugnuts thank god... just normal ones Or are you talking about for the studs themselves?

Anyone have some pictures of how they install the relays? I want to do this on my gal, but I'm not really sure how/where to put the realy - are there extra slots anywhere to use, or do you just build a holder for them? Also, I'm assuming the obvious - cover the exposed ends of wire and all that... but do I need to run from the Alternator, or should I just run from the Battery feed? I figure if I run from battery, I'll have power even if the engine is shut off, correct?

*nods* if I have a basic walk through and feel I can do it (cause I need to do it) I'll take pictures along the way and write it out in what will undoubtedly be as simple terms as possible... after all, I'm a simple person lol

Just out of curiosity - anyone who has done this - would you be willing to do a write up? Assuming replacement of cup and tension rod + bushing I'm looking at my Haynes manual... and truth be told I'm not really sure what it's telling me to do 0o' Lol... don't want to start removing parts till I understand how/where they go back together.

Yeah, thing is, like I said - best I got is an Oxy/Propane (or Oxy/Mapp if I can find the MAPP gas) torch with about 10-13 minutes of gas... lol. Somehow I doubt that'll be much help here. God... wish I could buy myself a nice mini-mig or something... my welding class is going to waste and with no way to practice I'm sure I'm hella rusty...

I hear ya - mine wont' pass inspection ttill I get the holes in the body fixed under the rear seats... ugh. Plus, now, I have to do this... and I don't know if I can weld the new parts in with my pitiful little propane/oxy torch...

Reserved for notes and/or additional space as needed

Progress: Spreadsheet Body - 0% Spreadsheet Data - 2% Spreadsheet Equations - 0% Input Functions - 0% Output Functions - 0% Total Progress - 0%

Data Collected So Far:

Alright then... I'm starting to put together a maintenance journal in Excel with all the maintenance a pathfinder needs to have done to it listed. My idea atm is to have it use two numbers from your truck to work things out: Odometer Reading and Date The idea is that I will have things listed with a mileage point (every X miles) and a date point (every X months/years/Weeks/whatever) and have the information listed in a hidden spreadsheet. A primary page (the working page) will have a spot to enter your current Odometer reading and keep track of the current date. Upon first opening the document, you will insert the last mileage/date (to the best of your memory) at which the service was performed. Then, the document will, on the primary page, list any services that need done, need to be done soon, or are overdue. All good and well, except... well... I don't KNOW everything that needs done to these trucks yet I know a fair bit, but hell, I'm still young and new to all this If anyone would like to contribute information to this project, please feel free to do so - once the spreadsheet is done, I'll host it and put a link here for download - if anything is missed, feel free to chime in and let me know

Earl, take a moment and ask yourself something: What do you want to DO with that truck? A Pathfinder is, and always will be, an Off Road machine. It's meant for it. It lives and breaths it. Take it away from that, and it'll be sad. Quite literally. Be careful how much "pretty" work you put into it if you plan to off-road - those high-dollar stereos and paint jobs and light covers and other things are nice... but one dip in a puddle or a stray branch and that's hundreds of dollars down the drain. If you want it to be a mall crawler, don't lift it - you cut your fuel economy and if you dont' plan to wheel, that just doesn't make sense I'm doing some major restoration myself (though I don't have a father around to help me (lazy bastard left) and I'm not as mechanically inclined) and I'm honestly daunted by the task I have ahead of me. You're doing my work times ten... and I hope you can follow through. Not doubting you, but it is a LOT to do, especially if you have limited resources / space. I'm doing most of it in a garage barely bigger than the truck itself with two dogs, poor lighting, and a cobbled together toolset - maybe that's part of my problem Either way, good luck Just make sure you keep a clear goal in sight for what you want the truck for, and then go for it!