Kittamaru

Er, aighty then... uh... how do you get it out of the can? I thought it was a gaseous substance. Last time I'd been camping was like, 7 years ago, so I don't remember very well, sorry I'd assume put in half a quart?

Wait... do you mean coleman fuel as in the fuel used in campfire stoves?

Lol, right then- Okay, any particular product names to look for? I'm very wary of snakeoil crap around here - would Advanced Auto be able to tell me? I've never done an oil "flush" before >_> I have some research to do before Saturday, that' much I can see

See, I dunno if I could do that - I drive 20 miles to work (and then home) every day, all highway... I wouldn't want to risk reducing the lubrication ability knowing I'd have to keep driving her, though maybe I could put that in and let it run to temp once or twice the day before? *nods* Good to know it isn't too big a deal - I am finally getting a full paycheck this week, so hence the desire to set things right

Okay, well, I hate to say this, but due to having extremely low funds, I haven't been able to do my oil change... I'm almost 1.5k past due now. I finally have a good, full, non-all-to-bills paycheck coming, so I can actually do the damn thing (and finally replace my dead front left turn signal, hurray!... yes, I've been so broke it was either do the oil change or eat something during the course of the day, ugh) so I'm getting ready to do it... my question is thus: Should I add a can of seafoam to the oil, drive a few miles, and then drain the oil? Or is there something better I could do? I want to do SOMETHING since I put so many extra miles on... I knwo there's probably @!*% all over my oil lines... suggestions? PS - I'm running plain conventional cause I have a valve cover gasket leak and if I run synthetic... well... it leaks like a sieve. With conventional, it stays blocked up XD. I hope to replace the gasket when I can get the time and money to do so

It almost sounds like a random short to me 0o' Weirdness

I know in my '90, I don't have to wait at all - I go straight from off to running, first or second crank, every time. Only time it doesn't is if it's been running and fully warmed up, then shut off for a few moments (say, a minute or two) - it acts like it doesn't want to start for two or three cranks, then kicks to life. Only other time is when it's SUPER cold, but that's for obvious reasons

Just because I haven't seen anyone do so, I'd like to stick up for my 1990... My old '90 SE is the PERFECT example of a capable stock truck and badass project truck... she's saved my ass SO many times I can't even begin to count... I kid you not, she's alive and has her very own personality, which I wouldn't trade for the world and it's gold... I can't wait to make some minor mods and really wheel her. And yes, I WOULD pit my near-stock '90 SE V6 versus that entire lineup you posted... and with a good driver (say, throw Pezzy in her) I'd bet money my truck would romp all over the competition, then come back and pull their asses out of the mudholes they couldn't manage. All because of a good driver, good tires, and great engineering.

She's testing you - making sure you are worthy of owning her

Mine has issues starting sometimes when it's only been off for a few minutes after a partial warm up...but by problems I mean it takes 3-4 cranks to turn over instead of the usual 1 or 2... *shrugs* Try adding a water-remover to the fuel? Not sure what else to say

Well, if you really want to wheel, go for a 3+ suspension lift with an SAS - takes care of all the problems with the IFS For a DD - I'm contemplating a 2" SL with 31" BFG A/T's, and keep my LSD. Only other real mod would be a set of good sliders and some undercarriage armor.

94, there's a 17 5/8's gallon tank, and a 21 gallon tank. My truck has the 21, and I average aroudn 350 miles before my idiot light comes on - and even when it IS on, I still only put approx 18 gallons in. Which means I have 3 gallon reserve (which is pretty monster tbh). Average MPG for me is 18-21. I think if I did all the things the truck needs and replaced all the aging parts (19 year old O2, Cat, Muffler, etc) I could probably squeak up to almost 400 miles per tank, which would be SO frikkin sweet!

I've been using the windows Just kinda hoping I could get it fixed for next summer My big thing atm, though, is I have higher priorities than my A/C - was hoping it'd be a quick do it yourself fix. First on my list - my oil change, which I'm almost 200 miles overdue for... hopefully I made enough in tips this week to actually buy the oil and filter so I can do that 0o' Then I need to get the body rust taken care of - I've stopped it spreading with regular treatments of rust prohibitors like naval jelly... but I want the holes fixed damnit, and I want them fixed right. Once that's done, then I can worry about the A/C *sighs* So much to do, and no money to do it with XD

Well... problem is I'm already coming up almost $200 in the red so far this month (****** hours last two weeks resulted in a terrible paycheck) so I can't afford to have a shop do it unless they'd be willing to give me like, a month to pay it off... *sighs* If anyone knows a good job in Eastern PA... let me know... please? I think I'm starting to annoy places by applying and re-applying everywhere within a 25 mile radius... ugh!

Ah... I don't believe my mechanic can do that (he told me he's not an A/C specialist and doesn't feel comfortable doing anything but basic maintenance on it) and the stealership would rape me for it, wouldn't it...

I have no idea how to recover the system 0o' Can you give someone who's NEVER played with the A/C at all a quick how to?

I don't have a sight glass (least not that I can find), and my system was updated to the new specs a few years ago (new coolant and such). No leaks I can see or spot. I'll have to check the rest in the morn.

Well, for a year or so now, my A/C has not worked... my mechanic said it was very low on refrigerant, and tried to top it off, but every time he did, he said the overpressure valve blew. My compressor spins up and engages, but only for a short while before stopping. I get maybe 10 seconds of cold air, then nothing. I'm not even sure where to begin with this... any tips?

*nods* I'm actually rather concerned to be honest - my truck is still pretty much all original parts... Original MAF Original TPS Original ECU Original Cap/Rotor/Plug Wires (until about 2 months ago, when I did a full spectrum tune up) Original AutoLock Hubs Original Steering Components (though they are a little loose) Original Springs/Torsion Bars I mean... other than standard consumables (spark plugs, brake pads, etc) and my right front CV+UCA (old one fell off and bent... stripped UCA bolts), and of course tires... it's all stock and standard. I know one of these days they'll all go at once... I mean, 19 years is a LONG time, isn't it? And she's my daily driver... with over 75k miles in the 3 years I've owned her... I try to take care of her but I only know so much being as young as I am... I dunno. I count myself lucky to have such a stubborn and sturdy truck... cause right now I don't know what I could do if something happened to her... she's taken, so far, being rear ended 3 times in the last 2 months AND sideswiped once on the highway at 60 MPH, all without any damage to even the paint... granted, the three vehicles that rear ended me weren't so lucky (and they've all been no fault of mine, mind you)... I just worry about my old gal... she's done me right and there's so much I want to do to give her back the old spark she deserves... not the least of which includes some major rust repairs, thankfully none of it on the frame.

See, I don't get it - I have the original factory alt in my truck (1990 SE V6) and it's running great. Even at idle, I hold between 13 and 14 volts (prolly 13.5). The needle never really seems to move from there, unless I turn EVERYTHING on all at the same time (A/C, High Beams, Stereo, and stomp the brakes)

That's a good question... I think the 89 uses vacuum to shift? Check your ECU for codes... might not be throwing a light, but may still have a code stored. Worth a shot, right? Also, try disengaging OD, shifting the rocker switch into Power mode... uhm... yeah, see if any of those help

Ah, lol. Yeah, you guys have our winters beat for sure

Well, to be terribly honest... if you need to rock at all, you're already stuck As I said - I do minor off-road snow wheeling, as well as dealing with never-plowed roads (where I live, they don't plow any roads till it's half a foot or more, and they almost never plow my secondary roads till last, meaning there can sometimes be two feet or more) and I've never had issues, be it snow, ice, sleet, freezing rain, hail, mud, etc. *shrugs* I would agree, though, that for more hardcore off-roading, you'd prolly want manuals For the daily driver / weekend warrior, autos are just fine

I haven't studied my brakes in that much detail yet XD I only got the parts for em, I let my mechanic do the work - they're due soon I think so I'll take a closer look when I get the chance

Only thing I'm not understanding then... why is it the drum part looks as clean as the disk part (eg, no rust, no tarnish, nice, shiny metal) even though I NEVER use the handbrake? Like... I haven't touched the thing more than maybe once since I got the truck *blinks* Looking around online, I see a few places claiming the Sport Package came with rear drums INSTEAD of disk brakes... *blinks* now I'm really confused...