Kittamaru

You sure? I'm pretty sure last time I had the brakes replaced I had to have all four, and the drum pads looked normal size to me (though... not that I'd really know what normal sized ones WERE... I just know the ones I replaced were a hella lot smaller (and worn out looking) than the ones I had put in). I could be wrong though *shrugs* lol

Actually, I have to change mine every time, as they are used with my normal brakes. I only know this because of the wear on them (and the fact I NEVER use my handbrake). It's kinda cool, and my mechanic says it could be a part of a towing package or something. All I know is last time I had the brakes checked (my mechanic does it while I'm there cause I like to watch and learn stuff from him) he showed me that 'cause he thought it was neat himself

I know that they were, except... these aren't rear disks. They're both drums AND disks... funky ass looking thing it is, and replacing both sets of break pads is a little expensive... but on the bright side the truck stops on a damned dime, even if you're towing

Only reason I haven't uploaded pics yet is... well... two reasons: A) I was hoping to upload my first round of images as part of a TOTM entry... but without either a good spot to go wheeling to pose, or the chance to repair the major rust damage on the quarterpanels (my poor Sheila! She has cancer of the quarterpanels... and other places ) I've been a bit shy about doing it. Yeah, the paint and decal work is definitely one of a kind... I've never seen another truck on the east coast with even a similar one. I'll see if I can get some pictures ASAP (probably Thursday as that's the only day I can really get a break from the new job, maybe earlier) and then I'll get em up

The foglights are mounted not in the bumper mounts but on supports under the bumper, she came with a slightly different interior than I've seen on other SE-V6's, the VIN is a little odd... mostly just tiny things here and there... the paint and decal job and the combo disk/rotor brakes in the rear being others

Problem is, the truck has only had 3 owners... one of which owned it only two years (1990-1992) before my grandfather bought it (and he never added anything) and then I bought it from him... And supposedly, the original owner was the CEO of Nissan back in 1990... if that's true or not I can't be certain, but it does have some... unique... features that fit as though they were factory standard.

It's not a rocker switch at all - under my dash is an orange pull-switch. Pull and the orange light inside lights up and the lights should come on. Push and they are supposed to go off I'm finding more and more non-factory standard things on my truck... has me kinda confuzzled.

Aighty, so, for a while I've had two issues with my fog lights - 1) When you pull the switch, they could take up to 5 seconds to turn on... I'm thinking bad relay? 2) The switch doesn't always illuminate. Now, they don't turn on at all... and for a while the switch would ALWAYS illuminate (when they stopped working) Now, neither the lights, nor the switch, illuminate. I'm thinking the relay is shot... but I don't have a manual and I have no idea where the fog light relay is, or even if they HAVE one for that matter. I know the lights are still good, so it's somewhere else in the circuit - ideas? Any ideas why the switch doesn't illuminate all the time?

It was down in Philly 2 years ago - they didn't plow our parking lot at school before the ice storm hit, so the snow got packed with ice on top That + a 30 degree incline made it an interesting maneuver, especially with the line of cars behind me... but she made it just fine

My autos have never let me down, and I've never gotten "stuck" - had a little trouble once, but it was backing up a nice incline out of a parking spot onto almost 4 inches of hard packed snow with an inch+ of ice on top... but that was more my fault than anything. once I put her in 4x4 low I was golden

This is going to sound bad... and I doubt it's it... have you tried using different / higher quality fuel? I had something similar to this happen once when I filled up at a cheapo gas station out of state... I guess they watered it down or something cause it ran like hell even after a second top off... finally had to run her near-dry and then refuel + water remove and it ran like a champ after that *shrugs*

I dunno, just seems like she bounces up and down a @!*%load in the rear - I never really measured it lol... Just a quick second thought - if my shocks are that worn out, and they've been this way at least 3-4 months... do I need to replace my rear springs since they've been bearing the extra load? And is there any specific damage I should look for? I know more than once I've hit the bump-stops after going over bumps *worry*

So... my rear end is still doing the weeble-wobble down the highway: When it happens - when you let off or kick onto the accelerator suddenly; during long, sloping turns when you hit a bump that moves the rear end. My thoughts - I know my shocks are next-to-shot... they're too light a weight shock for the truck, plus their old... at least 50k on em... I had my entire suspension checked out by my mechanic (say a prayer for him please... he had a tire EXPLODE on him the other day and it smacked him in the face... 29 faces... not his fault granted, the tire was faulty and exploded when it was under half full) and he said other than the anti-sway bar... I think he said end links?... were a little weak, but still good. Only thing I can think of, is that the bad shocks are mucking with it... I mean hell, I can move the truck up and down almost 2-3 feet just by pushing and pulling on the rear end... Am I on the right track?

Thing is, I'm looking at the stock lego wheel, so I can't get different size wheels because of this deal It'll have to wait though - grandmother collapsed today and had to go to the hospital... not sure what's up atm

Aighty It's a set of wheels I'm looking to get so that's why I was confused Thanks for the intel guys! Hopefully I can get the wheels and tires together and mounted before my trip to NC EDIT: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?ma...model=LTX+M%2FS GRR! They don't mention the 31x10.5 at all... this mean I'm SOL for this brand or would the 235x75R15 s work?

Well, I guess my question is - what on a wheel do you measure to figure out what size tire to use - I'd assume it's a radial measure?

Dumb question - how do I know what size I need? Lol...

well... I don't have a body lift yet and I'm using stock legos for the 1990 SE I don't intend to get another full size spare just yet... I'll purchase that when I go in for my first rotation As for balance/mounting/et al, I can have that done free or near free by a friend Just need the tires themselves first

Aighty... well, my BFG A/T's have served me well and have plenty of life left in them... However, I don't plan on doing any kind of off-roading anytime soon, and their rolling resistance is incredible to say the least... I'm hoping to grab a new set of legos tonight from one of the guys here (thanks again for the patience mate!) and am looking now into a good, low-cost set of street tires. The plan is to keep the BFG's for winter use and use the other tires during spring/summer/fall - I can also swap the BFG's out if I want to go off-roading, since I'll have them on the spare wheels. Question is, what IS a good normal tire for our trucks? Preferably tires that won't run me 500+ a set 0o' Reason I'm asking now is in 15 days I'm getting married And after the wedding, my wifey and I are running down to North Carolina for our honeymoon... and yes, we're driving... debating now if we want to taket he Pathfinder or her Subaru Legacy... Legacy rides better, has AC, and gets normally slightly better mileage (AC cuts into the normally far better mileage) but the Pathy has far more room and we won't need a tow behind, which is something my girl has never driven with and doesn't feel comfortable using... So, yeah, any advice? Looking for a set of good, "cheap" tires that aren't cheaply made

Oil cooler is a MUST. Leave distance to brake, and keep speeds within reason. If things get dicey, pop your hazards on and slow down even more, hugging the right shoulder so you have an escape route if something goes bad. Good peddle control will save you lots with an automatic - don't hit her hard and let her do the work for you... work with her and ease the accelerator and the pathy won't come around and slap you for it Above all, be SAFE.

I think part of the problem is it seems our power band is a little higher than most - I know for me personally, my engine seems to have the most "oomph" around 3000-4000 rpm...

While the truck won't LIKE you for doing it... she'll pull that vehicle home. Just be careful on the hills, and make sure you don't burn out anything going into and out of overdrive - if she won't comfortably stay in it at speed on the highway, take it out of OD - it'll hit your MPG but save your wear and tear. Though an external tranny cooler is HIGHLY recommended, even if you aren't towing anything. I still haven't installed mine simply cause I haven't had time and I don't really know where to put it

my K&N has never given me issues... just dont' over-oil it

Can't be plugged anymore - the thing stays cool perfectly fine... I don't know what to make of it... I'm thinking air pocket as they were trying to fill it via the reservoir, and I filled it via the radiator cap... which pushed out a LOT of air. It still leaks... but it isn't overheating now and as long as they keep it full of coolant is should be good in the short term till they cna get it fixed, right?

Okay, get this - it IS leaking coolant... but only seems to do so after half an hour to 45 minutes of driving... an even then, only when it's at idle... wtf... Meh... strangeness... it's why I love my pathfinder *hugs sheila*