Kittamaru

Probably be better off cutting out the rotten frame and welding in donor sections 0o' Lol

Well, with my new job, borrowing or renting one becomes an option in about a month (first paycheck is going to be used to cover some of the wedding costs upfront) As for removing the rust - the plan is to cut out ALL the rusted/damaged material... that's a lot sadly. And I called the local junkyards and you pull it's... none of them have any Pathfinders there. I even told them to make SURE they weren't confusing a Rodeo and a Pathfinder ( don't ask... it's been done here too many times) andd no dice We plan to do sheet metal, yes - the fiberglass would go over the metal to prevent water seepage and to be used to form a better surface, then it'd be undercoated/bedlined.

I don't have access to a TIG machine sadly. *ponders* I might be able to get a Stick welder... but... that's 220 as well

No offense taken Problem is, while I'm ABLE to weld... my skills are barely "novice" level... plus I'm worried I'd set stuff on fire XD And we don't have a MIG machine... we can rent one but eh... and the 220 line is a problem as the nearest one is almost 200 feet away in my house... >_> OxyAcetalyn I'm better with... but I only have an Oxy / MAPP gas torch... and maybe enough of each gas for about 20-30 minutes of Brazing... no idea for actual Welding... I'd love to have it professionally repaired... and with the job I just got today, I might have a chance to do so

Eh, k9sar, it is needed for structural support - the hole has eaten away at the right side rail for the rear seat... I won't let anyone sit in it at the moment because I can physically move the seat because of how little of it's right support is left. I'm going to need to find a JY and see if I can't get a new brace to use

We're thinking of roughing it and doing bondo, then roughing the bondo and undercoating it. So pop rivets over oxy-accetaline then *nods* Problem is, only Mig machine my dad can get is a 220... and we only have one 220 line in our house, running up to our central air system... we could run a line down and splice it in and shut off the central air for a bit... but... yeah. Dangerous.

Aighty, we're looking at two options: Pop Rivets oxy-acetalyne welding What grade of steel would we want to use? We're thinking of putting bondo/epoxy over the steel to help seal it in. Good idea / bad idea?

Yeah, the test was crap... Can't quite make the turn in the pathy? Give the pedal a push and break the rear end loose... drive it rally style and you'll make any turn you like as though driving a WRX Always worked well for me, though it took some practice to get the break-and-recovery throttle down right. Underpowered... eh, yeah. But of the five I reckon the Pathfinder gets the best fuel economy As for the complaints about a hard step up or cramped interior... WTF? LOL? Did they have obese midgets trying to get into the truck?

*nods* What's the best way to go about re-undercoating the bottom of the vehicle... I'm assuming the obvious ( clean it really well, sand and grind away visible rust, et al) but what should and should not be undercoated? Again, I'm assuming I shouldn't undercoat, you know,t he drive shaft... but eh, you get the idea of what I mean I think - sorry, just woke up so kinda out of it. Should I weld the metal on the inside, outside, or should I attempt to cut it flush and "edge" it in?

Cha... title says it all - got a fist sized hole under my rear passenger seat, clean thru - only noticed it today because of a rubber mat over top of it So once the weather warms up a bit, my dad and I are going to try our hand at fixing it... need some quick advice: What metal is recommended - looking for a grade of steel if possible What style of welding would be best? I can do your standard Oxy/MAPP or TIG welding... possibly MIG if we can get a machine? What kind of filler metal (if any) would I need? What's the best way to prep the area? Can I remove the rear seats for this operation? I mean... it's a cantakerous cavity that's extending into the seat framing... I'm afraid anyone sitting there might fall thru on the right side of that seat... Any other advice? While I'm at it, I'm probably going to look around for any more rust (need to find a way to REALLY clean the underside of the truck effectively) and patch any holes I find. Oh, and also - my pathy failed inspection - front drivers wheel bushing is all but gone, so my mechanic is going to replace that Wed and re-inspect it for me. *shrugs* shouldn't be a big job... right?

Dude... how... wtf? What failed? That really sucks man...

That... is odd to say the least. never heard of that happeneing... though occasionally my locks FREEZE shut... but that's a different issue altogether XD

I unno - my mech said he thinks that's part of the issue, along with the bad bushings He could be wrong (not a nissan expert) but he's pretty good

Check to make sure you still have your anti-sway bars... I have the same issue as you, but I have none... at all... and my bushings are shot... and other things need looked at >_> Check bushings and sway bars first

get back to us on the space question and make sure your centerlink isn't loose / damaged Sommat isn't right, we just need to find it

yer supposed to wash it out mate.

Check your CV's then. When the hubs are unlocked, CV's dont turn... so start there. For now, keep em unlocked unless you NEED 4x4... prevent any more possible damage.

It might make it more difficult than unlocked, but it shouldn't cause the steering to stop short of it's normal "stops" and it should definately not cause binding of any sort... I mean, there shouldn't be anything TO bind with the T-case disengaged, right?

It should NOT react the same way, that's the problem.

Well, she goes in on Wed for inspection, general once over and tuneup, and I'm letting my mechanic do the oil + coolant and related stuff... while on the job hunt I don't have the energy (or desire atm) to deal with that and since it needs inspected next month figured I'd get it all over with in one shot *shrugs*

Locked hubs or not, if you have it in 2WD your wheels are "free"... they aren't connected to the drivetrain... Something else is up mate. I'd bet on it What state ya in? might be easier to have help looking at it

Check the following: Timing (did your belt slip? Is it old, missing teeth, et all) Check for Engine Codes on the ECU What all exactly have you changed... no blah blah please Have you checked the basics?

Just a note - do NOT use 4x4 without serious wheel slip... I'm talking mud, snow, sleet, freezing rain, ice, sand... something. Do NOT try it on even wet pavement - it's a quick way to bust your t-case...

I kinda like my auto '90... the pre-select option makes it have plenty of gumption when you need it, but I don't have to worry about ddoing anything when I'm driving. Which is nice, as I'm not very good with a stick (still learning)

*nods* Likewise - I try my best to stay under 4k and I like to nearly idle along at 1500-2000 rpm, but when you need power, you need power - at high rpm's the VG30E can certainly deliver