nige

the approach angle

if you make a hook with the end of the coat hanger and tie a noose of string or shoelace to the end, you can go in through the top of the door, position the noose around the end of the lock knob, tighten her up and pull the whole assembly up. That's how i got into my truck one time

200 000 kms towing a boat for around 70 000. No cooler, no problems, never changed the fluid. if it ain't broke, don't fix it

I don't think there's gonna be any other rear seat out there that fits a nissan pathfinder better than a set of rear seats out of a nissan pathfinder

lookin' good brotha!

Mine has 210k km on it and it's cost me a bit to maintain. Sometime I feel like you do, but then i'll hitch the boat on the back and go fishing I've gotten used to the fact that cars need to be fixed, especially when they get 'up there' in milage. By gotten used to it, i mean i've learnt a few things about fixing it yourself. But, if you fart dollars, go ahead and get something new. Meh, brakes you can do yourself (not that you need to anytime soon). It cost me about $400 in parts (rotors, both pads, 2 calipers, fluid etc.) and took me about 4 hours to do myself. I've done them before (not the caliper part) and I did have frustrations, but I figured it out and have been doing it properly ever since. It all depends on if your time is worth the savings of d.i.y. But basically, every car you own, you're gonna find something about it that needs to be fixed/oiled/cleaned. I've been looking at 'new' (1999ish) frontiers, but even though my truck is only worth $5000max to the dealership, like Simon's, it still get the job done almost every time I ask something from it. That's why I can't justify spending 15-18k on that shiny, nice new truck. I learned to get on the other side of the interst game (save, not pay) before I purchase a new car, but disregard the fact that I just bought a house. And don't get all humdrum about having to spend $1000 on it here and there. My younger brother has put a solid $3000 since last summer in his '91 toyota mr2 just so it runs. Boy was it every peppy when he was finished. I can't wait to see the new exhaust he ordered. And whenever I feel like my truck has gotten me down, i'll go and use it for something I though of doing in it before I bought it. This weekend, it'll be towing the boat to catch the first weekend of pike fishing

if you look up beside the left side of the steering column and above where your left leg rests, there should be a hole in the firewall that pops out right by the washer reservoir in the engine bay. I ran all the power lines for my radio, backup light, old foglights thru there. If not, just grab the drill and make your own. Just make sure you know what's on the other side before you drill through

try summit racing for the header, or rocky-road. they both had good prices for those. The thorleys include the y-pipes, so other than that, you'll need a cat, maybe resonator, and a muffler.

is that you bidding on it cuong?

unless you moved the fuel filter, probably not. Then again, if you don't have cruise control and all the damn wires going everywhere like mine does, you might be able to get it to work. I also looked at putting it in between the battery and the fan, but it looked pretty snug down there. I'm not familiar with these dual kits, and i don't know what they look like, but if that guy ebaying his '95 can fit 2 optimas in there, i bet you could run a dual setup. it all depends on if you feel like moving stuff around under the hood, and i'm not that comfortable doing that especially when it comes to electrical stuff .

This is the side profile. I just barely fit under there. The tops of the elbows actually tuck neatly into one of the pockets in the structure of the hood: Here is the actual filter. You can see the bottoms of the nuts holding the bracket on. It was supposed to have 3 bolts in it, but i had to reposition it to get the hoses to stop kinking and the elbows to clear the hood. The bracket itself was about 3 inches wide and 10 inches long, with about a 30 degree bend around a quarter of the way up the bracket. I unscrewed and moved a small metal bracket that supports some electrical stuff to make room for the bottom of the bracket. The harness coming from the positive battery post could neatly be tucked around the back of the bracket holding the filter on. The hoses were a tad bit short, but they worked. Here is the adapter plate in place on the block. I found it was easiest to pass the plate between the inner fender and the frame beside the shock mount. From there, let the hoses dangle out into the wheel well and begin to screw it onto the nipple while hooking your fingers around the back of the plate to hold the rubber o-ring on (i dipped my fingers in oil to make it slide a little easier. This was the biggest p.i.t.a. throughout the install. If you guys need more pictures to built it yourself, just let me know.

i gave a kid $50 at future shop and he wired it up fine. I bought a new head unit that was more powerful that the amps. I know nothing about stereos so i fugerd $50 wasn't too bad. plus i had to leave for florida in 5 hours

well post up his shop's name so none of our quebecer members let him work on their cars.

hmm sounds like you have a short circuit somewhere. Can you give us more details in terms of what you were doing when the fuse blew? it'll help narrow the problem down so you can at least start doing some tests.

It took me about 2 hours by myself. I bought the transadapt brand kit which is a decent kit at about $80 cdn except my application required a couple of brass 90 degree elbows, teflon tape, some different mounting hardware and some hose clamps thrown in the mix. When i got the kit, there were no hose clamps on the brass fittings connected to the hose and i'd strongly advise buying some and installing them just for peace of mind. I also had to make a special bracket to mount the new filter on as I have cruise control, air conditioning and other random wires running over the usual spot to intall the filter, which kept me from replicating slick's install (thanks for the pics anyways ). The hardest part was screwing in the adapter plate where the old filter went because of the two stupid hoses attached to the plate, and trying to hold to new o-ring in place while you screw the plate on. besides that the rest was easy. I ended up putting about 4 litres of oil in as opposed to the usual 3 1/2 or so. The only other advice I have is to make sure there are no kinks in your hoses and check the fittings for leaks after you install it. I would rate the project about a 2 of 5 on a difficulty scale, as maritime man once said it was easier to install it with the engine out of the bay. I will have some pictures as soon as i get my hands on a camera. Can't wait to do the exhaust headers next :cool2:.

QX

i've also hear of folks swapping in maxima seats too

I think we need a second opinion from someone else that's recently upgraded to these UCAs. I wouldn't go pressing bushings into them before you check with rough country or whoever made those. You may have gotten a bunk set of them. You should pm or email 88. I think he has the exact same brand

i paid 110 for mine from the local dealership. It cost about 40 for someone to install. i diagnosed the problem myself reading the ECU code. I think it was code 33 if i'm not mistaken. all prices in loonies

nobody's ever been able to get mine to track straight. It has always pulled a little bit to the right. i find i keep my steering wheel at the 2 o'clock position when the crown in the road is more noticeable. On a flat surface, i have to periodically correct the steering, but nothing major. mind you, i've got my t-bars about as high as you can crank them so that might have something to do with it. As for tire wear, i've had a little bit of cupping going on on the outside and inside tread blocks, but nothing to cry about. I've had the ucas installed for about a year and a half now, and the bushings are still in great shape thanks to 88 installing some zerk fittings in there. I grease them all the time as well as the balljoints and tie rod ends. All in all i'm pretty happy with the way they have been working for me so far. I've got the automitive customizer brand installed btw.

could be a wheel bearing, a strut bolt has come loose or you have a bad ball joint. At the worst, it could possibly be your exhaust hanger or y-pipe has come loose and bangs on the body right under your feet, but that's very rare. take a look under your truck and see if anything is loose or grease has squirted out the side of a ball joint or tie rod end

roger that

i know mine was replaced. I was able to look through the repair records on the nissan database at the dealership. I think it was somewhere around the 40k kilometer mark it was swapped. I also found out my truck was originally sold in quebec, which would explain the rust everywhere :oops:

lookin' good pickles

what the hell do you need one of those for? like i'm jealous you get to have one, but why? :confused: