FirstGenFreak

I'm going to replace the screen on mine myself and bought the top seal here: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/86-97-NISSAN-NAVARA-D21-HARDBODY-FRONT-TOP-WINDSHIELD-WEATHERSTRIP-RUBBER-SEAL/110949004881 You can sometimes get the top seal out without tearing it see how you go. I'm hoping the dam will stay in place when I remove the old window (using a length of wire to break the sealant). It's main purpose is to stop the sealant 'squeeze out' from appearing inside the car, and would probably help any leaks to wick down to the bottom of the windscreen rather than onto your dash.

You can get them to take a bit more off the deck or the head to bump up your compression ratio, you'll need your engine builder to cc your cylinder head and work out correct piston to valve clearance and calculate compression ratio. 9-9.5:1 would wake it up a bit as well. You could put a performance or torque cam in as well. Mine has a towing/torque cam which helps get it off the line, which I will re-use. Speak to your engine builder about your goals/intended use for the car and if he is worth his salt he'll will give you some direction and advice.

That is a pretty standard price, especially if it is from a reputable engine builder. I'm building mine myself, but I can't do anything on it at the moment because I am in lockdown in Melbourne and the car is on my other property in Central vic. I'll be spending about 1000-1500 but I am building mine myself. I found a reconditioned head on Gumtree for $200 which saves a lot of machining cost. Probably another 600 in machining (Bore, crank grind, deck, balance) and 500-ish for a rebuild kit from ebay US. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Engine-Rebuild-Kit-Fit-83-87-Nissan-720-D21-Hardbody-2-4L-SOHC-Z24-Z24i/360881090167 I'll be putting a weber 32/36 and a set of headers on, this combination really wakes them up, All in I should be around 2-2.5k

Yup, S is carb

It is certainly worth it in my opinion, but - Sometimes it is hard to draw a line on where to start and where to stop when doing these repairs. It's a 27 yo car that has years of wear and tear. Opening an old engine can be like opening Pandora's box. Especially if you don't know it's history and how it has been driven and maintained. . If you're pulling it apart, you'd be silly not to do the timing belt, freshen up the heads, replace all of your hoses etc when you reassemble it. You may need a new exhaust system depending on how long it's had water accumulating in it (they rust from the inside out) Then if you're going that far, why not throw in some fresh rings and bearings? IF you're doing that, why not a full reconditioned engine? And it snow balls from there. My advice [if you're paying someone to do the work] is do as much as you can afford while it is in bits as the labour is the expensive part. It's kind of like my story I have an 86 4cyl 2 door I bought 12 months ago which overheated driving it home. It started with a new waterpump and radiator, now I am putting in a reconditioned engine. I found that the previous owners had never ran corrosion inhibitor, so the inlet manifold was corroded... New intake. While it it, I am replacing clutch, starter, alternator, carburettor, exhaust, some wiring and even decided to repaint the engine bay. It's turned into an intensive project, which is fine as I only paid a few hundred dollars for the car, and I am doing the work myself.. But I love these cars, they are starting to disappear from our roads and when I am done I know I will have a sweet truck that will serve me well for years, so a great investment for me. I hope you decide to repair it!

https://www.rodshop.com.au/bellhousings/holden-v6/nissan-navara/ap113b-nissan-adaptor-plate.html

Some info here: https://v6conversions.net.au/navara-pathfinder-4wd/

Dozzerwd21 the Ecotec is the Aussie version of the vortec, 3.8L EFI based on Buick V6. Projectcar I gave the conversion a lot of thought multiple times. Guys that have done it keep blowing the manual gearbox, and the pathy boxes are getting harder to find. Could use a commo gearbox and fit a divorced transfer, like off a 720, but that is far more work and expense, Also, with the kits I have seen you need to use the very early engine - VN/VP engine, not the Ecotec which was VR/VS. The kits are not stocked by most suppliers (Marks 4wd adaptors, Castlemaine Rod Shop, V6 conversions.com and Dellow, and most kits were to suit the Commodore 4 speed auto. Kits came out at about 3k, plus you need a donor car and to engineer the thing, need to pay to have the auto modified to accept the nissan transfer case, new front driveshaft modded. I worked out $AUD 5k if I did all the work myself. In saying that there was one already converted on Gumtree about a month ago for $1000.

The key is making sure you get the cups positioned correctly before you weld. Obviously use low amps if stick welding.

The frame in that area is thick enough to do it with a stick welder, I did mine a few years ago and had a fella machine me up some nice thick wall cups. For the cost of buying or renting a welder, I am sure you will be able to find someone with a welder to do the job far cheaper, especially if you do all the prep work. You'll be surprised how much nicer it handles afterward! On ebay you can buy replacement cups similar to those I had made up : https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-SUPERPRO-Strut-Bar-To-Chassis-Mount-For-NISSAN-PATHFINDER-WD21-Front/173715935775

4 cyl Petrol will be a Z24. Engine number is on the LHS where the head meets the block. Engine number will start with 'Z24' If it's an 89 it will have the 8 plug cylinder head. Can tell if you chuck up a pic. Parts are easy to find for these, I am rebuilding mine at the moment.

Correct, same sill profile

You'll be able to find those bits but it will take some hunting, mainly the window and the taillight. Sill you'll have to make up.

Interesting, Mine performed better with the single spark leccy dizzy. Cabstar dizzy may have had a retarded curve on it.

Ahh. Same as mine. I hope you save it! The hard stuff to find is really only the WD specific stuff. Plenty of Navaras getting wrecked out. What does it need?

If you do scrap it (which I hope you don't) I'd be keen on buying some bits. I'm in Victoria,.

Is it a 4 cyl or a V6? And 2 or 4 door? They are starting to get rare here now. We don't really get frame rot here in Austraila as a general rule unless they have been used on the beach. I've had 4 WD21s and they have all been rust free except the bottoms of the guards. Keep all over gumtree and marketplace, that's where I got mine and my parts car.

I've only ever fitted a shutoff to prevent current draw when not in use & for security. Here in Aus we had a spate of guys unspooling people's winches, running the cable over the roof of the car to the rear bumper, engaging them and effectively crushing the roof in on someone's car while they slept.

Looks great. Love the period correct graphics!

I prefer carbs, plus we don't get a say in it with Australian Z24s, we never got the Z24i. I've ran the Weber DGV for over a decade and only had fuel starvation going up one hill that was nearly vertical. Note you'll need to run a different (low pressure) fuel pump to facilitate the carb conversion.

That's exactly how I did mine.

Man they do look great. I'd love to find one and make a fibreglass copy.

I'd love to do that on mine, disc rear axles are rocking-horse poo here in Australia.

Everyone has a favorite tire, so this can be a can of worms! I've had a good run from Maxxis Buckshot/Bighorns but they do have thin sidewalls. Best of the cheaper brands. My last set I bought were the Toyo R/Ts and these are a ripper tire. Halfway between an All-Terrain and a Mud Tyre.

That's what I have done in the past and will be doing to my current truck. You'll need longer travel shocks too. My personal experience is that If you don't beat your rig to crap on the rough stuff it will last okay. Using OEM or good quality Japanese (like TRW or 555) suspension parts where possible helps with longevity. Also get yourself an idler arm brace.