Strato_54

After more diagnosis and reading, I found that I should check for continuity through that little circular piece and it / ignition coil is the issue. Basically new coil and I’m good to go!

So I just checked that little resistor / capacitor thing on the side of the dizzy and there’s. No resistance. Bingo!?

Before 3 days ago, the filter was replaced 2019~ but after a pump swap and filter swap nothing. I know I have good pressure and flow at the rail so unless something is in there then it’s fine. now it won’t even start after priming. It’s dead. i tested spark with a shop friend and there’s nothing in any of them. I do have a newish cap rotor and plugs. i did pull apart the dizzy and it has no rust inside, there’s 12V and 5 Volts on the large plug out of the dizzy do it should be getting power. I’m trying to get the ignition coil out as I speak but one screw is so stuck it’s getting frustrating. Everything looks fine so I’m thinking something in the coil or the module died. Either way I have a new one coming Tuesday from the part store if I do want to swap it

So it was not the fuel pump, swapped it and it did seem to fix another smaller issue I had but then it died on my again so can't say for sure it did anything for the better. I'm now leaning toward spark. I plugged in the Autel and everything seems to be reading properly as far as sensors go. I tried to pull out a spark plug then ripped one of the wires, so I think that's a tomorrow me issue. My brother just had his distro give him the common failures on his VG30 so maybe mine isn't far behind it. I shouldn't have given him my spare distro.... If it was a wire, one cylinder would die same with a single injector, plug, A VALVE EVEN etc. so now i'm going to check ALL spark and see if that's where the issue is

First time in a while I've had an issue with this thing I can't figure out, but yesterday it left me in the middle of a highway intersection.... Got it off the road, pulled the maf it started. Drove it 1 KM to my part store limping it in the shoulder where I cleaned and checked the maf, then it didn't start. After trying a lot of things, it seems the only way it will start is if I LONG CYCLE the key 3-5 times and stumbles hard when I throttle into it. Only codes are my regular permanent codes. lol. All before this, did a small pull on the highway with 140F oil and 190F Coolant and it felt amazing, then it died next light..... I'm thinking its the fuel pump, if i unplug the vacuum hose for my regulator it will not fire, barely coughs. But everything plugged and long prime the key 4 times for 3 seconds each, guaranteed fire and it sounds fine when I can get it to idle. Good oil pressure, no oil or coolant issues, new o2, great looking plugs, new vacuum hoses, new gaskets everything intake related, cleaned IACV and tested. Kinda at a loss if it isn't the pump gonna throw one in today but anyone have other ideas in the mean time?

Tyler's videos helped a lot when I was deciding what I wanted to do when I still had very limited knowledge of these rigs. If you did a subframe drop as opposed to a coil lift in the front you wouldn't have to use camber bolts as you can fix the camber in the spacers. How ever, I would suggest doing the AC and LR route. It feels great as a daily and being a college student you should have minimal issues (sight bumper rub when full lock and CV boots like to tear).

Good day, I just discovered my parts car 02 rear end has an LSD while taking the axle shafts out to do the rear disc swap on my pathy. However, I've realized the entire rear end is all around beefier than the 97. I know the shock mounts are in a different location slightly, but are there reasons why I can't just build the 02 rear end brand new with disc then just swap my rear end once its complete? Both are HG43 though the parts car has 3x the milage mine does. I have no issue using my rear end just wanted to see if it was worth it. Thanks. Side note: i know the R50 LSD is crap but its still better than nothing since i have it so might as well right?

Just Calcium build up in the coolant. Pistons look normalish (dirty but healthy) and that knock sensor looks better than what I pulled on mine! But with all that sludge being at the top where the overflow is and you filled anyways, I would put it to being from the gross hose water that got put in to it. That's why you need to use distilled/deionized water. Someone made a point of that somewhere a few posts up. From the research I did for the cams, you'll have to go with the heavier valve spring to compensate for the higher lift. More lift on a soft spring is just asking for valve float. That's it. The cam gears should be the same, and the rocker assembly. Check the valve seats though for any pitting or carbon, improper seats just loses HP.

I would like to chime in saying that could be calcium build up if its ever had hose water flushed through it at any point. that and heat don't usually mix well. If you get it running with VG30 cams post the info. I've been wanting to do the same but don't want to pull my heads and let that JDM magic out quite yet

I always start from the bottom, then the driver side cam and end on the passenger side. You're going to have to slide the belt on together at once. Just put the belt on the edge of all the pulleys, then slide it on to its final position. You're not going to hurt the belt from sliding onto the gears its just how it is being so new. It may take a few tries to work it on.

Was going to say the same thing. If you use a larger bolt too it probably won't want to strip out as easy. A little heat won't hurt either just don't heat the crank only the pulley. I broke mine using a gear puller, these balencers are a very expensive mistake.

you're going to have to look for a different lift option than this section. this is for 96-2004 Pathfinders, not 06 unfortunatly

My next project is trying to see if my old brakes will fit on a WD21 so if anyone has messurments or has attemped that shoot info my way. Otherwise give me a few weeks WD21 people and I'll let you know. All I know is WD21 rotors are 10.8"~ and the bracket bolts are the same distance apart.

Been running the 2002 brakes on my 97 R50 for a while now and they are worth the swap for sure. The stopping distance is much improved, especially with the drilled and slotted rotors I put on. The rotors went up from 11.1" diameter stock to 11.77" after the conversion. If you want to make this a fully bolt on set up, you will need the spindles that go along with the larger calipers. Other wise you will have to drill the two 17MM holes out on the spindes for the larger 19MM bracket bolts to fit through. This is the only major drilling/modifacation needed to fit these parts. Once the holes are drilled everything bolts on and fits factory. You have to drill very slow with oil (I used rapid tap) and maybe sacrifice an old bit as these spindles are very hard steel. The Dust shield also will be too small for the larger rotors, but that's nothing a hammer can't handle. You can either flatten out your original dust shield or simply bolt on the 2002. You can use your original hub and bearings if you like or swap. Parts used for upgrade and caliper rebuild: Rotors JBR917XPR PowerStop Pads EHT855H Raybestos Slide pin/boots H15165 / H16043 Raybestos Hose 0731621 Beck/Arnley Caliper seals 15215 Carlson 01-04 Pathfinder Calipers/Brackets OPTIONAL: 01-04 Spindles (no drilling required) 01-04 Dust shield Before rebuilding the calipers I sand blasted the brackets and calipers, then painted them with a high heat engine paint and they were ready to rock! This was the smoothest brake install I've ever had on a vehicle so the work was well worth it in the end.

For my front and rear hoses I ended up vise gripping both ends and getting really lucky with not chewing up anything too bad. Steel and aluminum will actually oxidize together, it's called galvanic corrosion. It's the same as having stainless hardware seize almost immedietly unless lubed with grease or anti-seize. Slart is right, heat a torque should hopfully get it out. Don't get the aluminum too hot though as its only cast.

Most parts from the D21 and WD21 are actually the same part number i've found so youre really not mismatchhing much. If you lift the front and spin 1 wheel, the other should spin freely. If you block 1 wheel and spin the other, the drive shaft should spin freely. If there is any misses, clicks, or no rotation at all from these parts its most likely the diff. But make sure the wheels are actually spinning with the CVs

The rear are just a quick swap and drop in replacement, the front are not the same. You'll have to get a spring compressor for the front coils to safely remove/install the coils from the shocks. I run KYB and the 5100 setup and it's what I expected for the research I did. Pretty stiff in the front which I prefer, and the rear with the 9449 coils is still pretty soft but holds a lot of weight when camping. Not a super hard job, but is a bit scarier to do with the higher spring rate AC coils. (the stress could've turned my hair grey at 20)

Probably the best method, it will likely go towards the backside of the engine at the bottom corner of the head. Both sides on mine were pouring before the fix.

Its supposed to only be one bolt per. a pack of 2 is all you need https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CB2GOU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I wouldnt say, as long as you can get the parts its an afternoon of work.

It's not so much about vehicle height, rather the distance between the inside of the side wall and the bottom of the strut perch. I'm currently running a 265 75 16 on a 16x8 -6. I was really worried about going for that size with that weak of an offset, but I have about a 1/4" or more bewteen my tire and the strut. Anything larger than a 31 you will want to expect rubbing on the fender liners, and in my case remove the OEM front mud flaps/brackets.

The look on my dads face when I showed him the tool bag with the #6 tool was priceless. Had it out and replaced in 5 minutes, and any other R50 owner that hasn't used it is missing out!

If you're still running the factory mechanical cluch cooling fan, make sure the clutch is still in good condition. There should be some resistance when rotating by hand with the engine off. If you try to push it really fast and it keeps spinning, this is your issue. Does the engine maintain proper temp for a long time at idle with the A/C off? The fan should be able to keep the engine cool at idle for a long period of time with out over heating. Its also possible the pressure sensor could be going faulty, and looking at a service manual diagram there isn't a temperature sensor for the refrigerant. (HA-31)

If the system hasn't been charged since factory, its possible the pressure isn't as high as it used to be. My brother's WD21 will blow warm then cold repeatedly while hearing the compressor kicking on and off. This is usually the sign of low refrigerant. Heat also expands, so its possible when it gets warm the refrigerant is getting to a high enough temperature for the system to "function". The VG has a weird adapter harness so the connection might be loose on one of the plugs. Not 100% on the VQ, I'd have to look at my donor car to know for sure. Testing for 12V at the plug should give a pretty good indication on how the system is functioning. 12V should turn on the compressor, and 0V off.