PathyDude17

Maybe it would match more if you could get a black “bug guard” on the front of the hood/grille? I have one, and my center grill piece is currently gray due to just being replaced. I’m thinking at some point it’s gonna get painted black, especially if I get some kind of black front bumper

I spray tinted my fog lights yellow so that’s not going away haha

Your grill lights look identical to a light I was considering for a backup light. Vision X?

Ok, understood. That's the issue I'll be running into if I get new tires.

@02_Pathy are you currently fitting a full-size spare in the stock location?

I have the same problem, but I've noticed it only happens at less than 1/4 tank of gas I come to a stop or brake really hard. I've just assumed its something wrong with the fuel pump (was replaced right before we purchased the vehicle) and filled up ahead of time until I get the chance to look at it.

Got them all installed.

I used the exact setup from my wiring diagram (EXCEPT I had to swap the my hookups between pin 87 and 30) to get one rock light and the backup light hooked up before I had to stop. They work exactly as I thought they would, the only thing is the relay “chatters” and rattles when the lights are subject to dimming like the dome light does. I believe a capacitor should fix that, and I’m hoping to get the other rock light wired tonight. Definitely put out a ton of light. Hopefully get pictures up tonight as well

Search function

Never mind, misread something

So it does improve handling and stiffen up your ride. It also makes your ride stronger, and protects the front suspension from undue stress by linking those lower arms together. I legitimately noticed less body roll in cornering, and I guess its harder to prove that it strengthens the structure of your ride, but that's generally what crossbars do..... Also if you make the crossbar a certain way, it serves as a great mounting point for some skid plates

Ya, I've heard the same thing about the power band with a CVT transmission. Read somewhere (Car and Driver in the Dentist office?) that Porsche tried to put one in a track car decades ago but the design was banned from competition.

That's what I was thinking. Even if I can't get it mounted or a good spare for it until 6 months down the road, at $30 Its hard to turn it down if I have any interest in going that route. Although it had a weird lock on one of the bolts through the spare tire attached to it that I couldn't figure out. Probably pretty normal (security lock of some sort?), but it wasn't something I'd seen before. Ya I also disassembled the latch mechanism and threw that in the trunk

My friends Altima is cvt. You don’t feel much for shifting, kinda takes the fun out of accelrating

I’m really tempted. Junkyard quoted me $30. I even disassembled it and put it in the trunk to protect it from further weathering. It’s in great shaped and the same color as my trim. I just have to think it over and decide if it fits my budget and the direction I want to/am able to take the truck

Is this the other kind of tire carrier? Rectangular tubing instead of round?

got the main body of the wiring before i had to stop. All thats left is wiring to the lights and power source (subwoofer).

Got All my equipment except the lights in today.

https://forums.nicoclub.com/topic563777.html

Ya, forgot about that. I had to find an SPDT. On offs can be had anywhere

OTRATTW makes really nice automotive switches, I got mine from wiring Depot. They’ll usually say it’s for automotive, or at least give the demensions, which you can compare to your blank spots. They’re essentially universal

When I put my missing link on, I ended up having to spray WD40 every few hours for the first evening, let it sit overnight, then the bolts came off pretty easy the next day (still had to use a breaker bar).

https://colevalleychristiansch-my.sharepoint.com/:o:/g/personal/tyler_smith_cvcsonline_org/EvmfQVX_0vRBvU_dGBPQbHsBGJNLG8GK6IrkVtTL3uVTXg?e=OL4NGS The link above is what appears to be my final wiring diagram. I apologize for the lack of actual wiring symbols. This has gone through multiple iterations, and due to my limited experience, took a lot of research and development. I constructed this after pulling apart my dome light and tail light circuits earlier this week and experimenting with a voltmeter. So, I'll lay out the basic workings of this diagram. Hopefully, much of this wiring already makes sense to the vast majority of people here. However, knowing that there are plenty of people like me who are not electrically inclined but may be interested in this, I'll try to leave no detail unmentioned, so bear with me. This wiring diagram requires a constantly live and fused power source, an SPDT (single pole double throw, aka ON-OFF-ON) switch, two relays (5 pin or 4 pin will work), and connections to the dome light ground wire and backup light wire. First, the switch: an SPDT switch can either be left in an open position, or complete one of two circuits. In this diagram, my switch either stays in the off, open position, and no lights come on no matter what (For me this was a must, as I wanted to avoid accidentally blinding anyone when backing up, and not needlessly run my lights during the day), or when flipped to the upper position, completes a circuit between the subwoofer's wire (Which actually goes directly to my battery-live power source) and the lights. This way the lights can be turned on anytime, period. If the switch is in the lower position, it connects the my relays to the subwoofer, so that when the relays are triggered, the lights can come on. As for the relays, the leftmost relay is triggered by the same ground that grounds the dome light. This was the main hang-up in my previous ideas, as there is no one wire that supplies power only when the dome light is lit (well, door switch and keyless entry wires, but that would've required 3-4 wire taps in the smart entrance control unit, which would be an absolute pain to access. It may be possible to access those near the door switch sensors, but I have no idea why you would attempt either of those options). Rather, there are ground wires that provide ground at specific times to otherwise constantly live wires. Through testing, I was able to determine specifically that the ground wire directly connected to the terminal on the dome light provided ground only when the dome light (as it functions in the "door" position) would come on (keyless entry, open door, etc). And so, with ground provided to that relay the first relay via that wire, the switch between 30 and 87 is closed, and the other tap from my subwoofer provides power through the relay to my lights. The rightmost relay is triggered by the backup lights, and so whenever my backup lights come on, my lights will also come on, once again powered by the subwoofer. I have the power line from the second relay (out from pin 30) going into pin 87a on the first relay. I am still considering whether to tie that line into 87a or link into the wire where my green and blue wire meet. As far as I can tell, no discernible difference would be achieved, other than that maybe using pin 87a prevents any back feeding into my subwoofer, as doing so would make it impossible for the both dome light and the reverse light to (at the same time) trigger my lights to come on. So I guess using pin 87a guarantees that only one circuit at a time will provide power to my lights. But honestly, how often is it that your dome light is on at the same time that your reverse lights are on? I will be planning to fuse the wire tap from my sub with a 10A fuse, though 7.5A would work fine, and even 5A would give me enough clearance for this current circuit and more. A brief note on the dome light circuit: Using the manual "on" switch will not trigger my extra lights to come on, as that switch makes use of a different ground connection (the screw holes in the dome light casing). Also, the dome light does not need to be left in the "door" position for this circuit to work. The switch wired into this circuit is by all means the master switch. It is possible to drain the battery by accidentally leaving the switch in the upper "on" position (but not the lower position), which I'm allowing myself to be ok with. Avoiding this would require a 3rd relay or a different, and likely lower amperage, power source. There would be plenty of workarounds for this, they just require more wiring. As far as I can tell, this is the minimal amount of wiring required to accomplish what I desired out of my lights. Obviously, this circuitry could be modified to isolate the reverse and puddle lights, or can be easily added to. For what I desired, it made sense to have all the lights come on together. I couldn't think of a time when I would only want one or the other on. If at some point I add more rock lights, and want to be able to drive with them on (I know, ricey, right? At least it’s a Nissan), I would rewire this and isolate the backup light from the circuit. Not difficult, just more work. Also worth noting is that at no point in this diagram is power drawn from an existing power line in order to run the lights. This is all powered from the car's battery, and with proper fusing I will leave myself plenty of room to add lights to this circuit. As for the actual lights, I will be using 2 KC cyclone rock lights (5W, 516 lumens each) and a KC C2 Scene/backup light (20W, 2200 lumens). These are very efficient and low draw lights. Another brand worth looking into is Black Oak LED- their products draw great reviews, and have almost unbeatable lumen output and pricing, as well as great warranties and waterproofing. This is one of the few applications that I have researched where KC was an equally viable option. Vision X would have been slightly cheaper, but I couldn't verify the waterproofing on their products. Rigid was slightly more expensive for no discernible change in performance or durability. So for anyone not wanting lighting from eBay or amazon, I recommend researching those companies. Anyhow, I ran this diagram by a friend of mine, and everything seems to check out. Unless anyone has any further suggestions, the only thing left for me to do is put this circuit together and test it out (parts are being shipped to me now, should be able to install early next week). Thanks for your help!

I’ve got two magnetic work lights that are gonna be pretty similar to my puddle lights, and I’ve been playing around with sticking them to my undercarriage. There’s actually quite a few good mounting points, and a potential to throw some pretty good light. 2 will suffice for now, but I could see how a 4 light setup would provide almost full coverage. You could say I’m getting excited haha...