KiwiTerrano

Where are you going hunting, and for what? I've spent a fair bit of time in the hills around Queenstown shooting goats and the odd fallow deer with my .308, as well as plenty of red deer stalking around the Otago and Southland mountains

If you really want one, there's a decent one for sale in Christchurch for $150NZ. Shipping would be killer though. https://imgur.com/gallery/AQidPQN

Nice! Should come to NZ, in the South Island you can see pretty much all of those options on any given day

Your work looks great! Keen for the 2" SFD kit, would work nicely to fit the tyres I want without being crazy high.

All the updates above are still to go on the truck unfortunately. I'm still working out if i want to blow $2000 on tyres. The cheapest 255/85r16 is $454NZ per tyre. Quite a bit. But yes the clearance would be amazing. I'm tempted to pair it with hawairish's 2" SFD kit as it's going to need certing anyway. That would give me the perfect amount of clearance in the front, and then I could fit extended bump stops and 29" extended bilstein shocks in the rear for silly flex.

Yes, it's fairly common for the bearings to si.ply loosen with time. Both mine and my flatmates r50s have had to have the front wheel bearings tightened. Nothing wrong with the bearings, just slight excess play. You should just get them tightened and checked. They're quite tough bearings being of the taper design but will wear prematurely if loose.

Can be installed either way as they're monotube shocks. Take your pic. If it's a pre facelift then you want the shock body up to prevent interference with the panhard.

In theory the best would be qd32eti with the mechanical injector pump off the td27 to minimise electronics (and for reliability). I love the QD32ETI in my jdm terrano, it's a great engine and has way more low end torque than the td27. However, they are notorious for flogging out the electric solenoid in the fuel pump, which costs about $2500 NZD to have rebuilt here. Probably even more in the states as you won't have diesel mechanics who are familiar with it. I'd probably have to recommend the mechanical pump td27 as it can be easily modified to produce around 150 whp with an intercooler and a decent tune. I'd definitely recommend diesel, the torque is insane.

Sweet. The other thing worrying me is the scrub arc in the front, I'd rather not have to trim the hell out of the front guards and flares but I will if I have to. I've already got shocks that are 27" extended in the rear, basically the maximum you can run with standard bumpstops.

That was over two years ago now, 5 days after I bought it. Was super clean. Then one of my mates took me down a brushed in track and ruined my paint...

New 4wd tyre time. When I bought the truck, I fitted a set of 31x10.5r15 mud terrains on the original wheels. I then more recently fitted a set of all terrain/road tyres on a other set of wheels for dailying on. My original mud tyres are pretty poked now, down to <6 mm tread and are on wheels with a terrible factory offset. Currently it sits on ironman 35 mm springs that have sagged back to standard height, with procomp es326500 rear shocks. I'm planning on lifting the vehicle 70 mm or so with land rover rover rear springs, and 40 mm extra HD Cobra lift springs with 1" SF creation spacers in the front, plus manual locking hubs and a Chinese knockoff front air locker. It already has a rear lsd which I plan to shim up. I am also going to fit an MCC winch bar with a 12000 lb unit, alongside my custom front recovery points. The real question is what offset wheels I need to clear the front strut spring perches. From what I have read, a 16x7 wheel with -13 offset should be sufficient to clear a 255/85r16 BFG KM2 in the front, as this is a very skinny tyre. In the rear I will be running the same tyre, but with a 16x7 wheel with a +13 offset. The logic behind this is to allow the wheel to stuff properly, as my current 31s stuff nicely in the rear with a +10 wheel. My flatmate has 15x7 -19 offset front and rear on his Terrano, and it can't stuff the rear wheels properly as they interfere with the arch with about 25 mm rubbing on the tyre. He's also on 31s. I may consider a 0 offset 16x7 if I can be convinced it will stuff properly. TL/DR - will 255/85r16 BFG KM2 clear the front struts on 16x7 offset -13 wheels?

By dropping the subframe 4", keeping your cvs at the same angle as a 2" lift.

Some pics from my last trip out in August with a mate in his lifted Forester

I was just going to say the same thing.

Nice. With a 2.5" turboback exhaust my flatmates td27 r50 is just as fast as my qd32 r50, and has much better performance above 3000 rpm where mine tails off.

Might have a go for the first time. Winter trip up the Carricktown track in Central Otago, NZ, in my JDM diesel r50 with a mate in his lifted JDM Forester XT. We were stopped by that big drift, was about a metre deep in the middle and just couldn't get through.

Would a JDM Subaru Momo airbag wheel work you reckon? There's heaps of those in NZ. Had one on my Forester and loved it. They look identical to the above.

My 3.2 diesel tows beautifully. It's rated to tow 750 kg unbraked or 1800 kg braked. I imagine the v6 wouldn't be as great for towing heavy loads with less low end torque.

Nice! I definitely need to replace my sway bar bushes on the front. Rear bar is permanently off. I think only the limited spec had the lsd. Mine's a limited and it has one.

In theory a v8 would fit as they use both an IL4 diesel and a v6 petrol. Tricky part would be transmission mating + wiring. & legalities.

I just fitted the cheapest pads I could find at Supercheap (50 bucks for 4 pads) and they're still going strong 35,000 km later.

I run Nolathane red bushes front and Superpro purple rear. Best mod I've done. Really improved handling. Still get great articulation.

I do 10-13 L/100 km in my QD32 diesel

It probably is one tooth off. I put a new engine in my 1989 Subaru Omega (NZ equivalent of a Loyale) and had to swap the dizzy over, meaning my distributor was off. Not by much, but it wouldn't start. Just had to keep taking it in and out until I could get it timed to 8 deg BTDC (factory spec for the EA82 carby motor). Then it started first pop.