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KiwiTerrano

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Everything posted by KiwiTerrano

  1. On a facelift R50 like yours, the perfect rear shock is the Procomp ES3000, part number 326500. They need to be combined with spring/spacer height of 400 mm minimum - otherwise the spring will fall out. they are available for $40 per shock online, and will give you unbeatable flex for a 2" lift - I have these shocks. The shock travel is 11.13", almost all of which is usable (very little wasted uptravel above the shock mount). When I flex my R50 out, I've measured 15.5" difference between sides, from hub to wheel well, and that's with the swaybar still attached! These shocks are great. You can flex more than the travel of the shock because of how the axle angles. Only problem is they hit the panhard bar on the right on prefacelift R50s because of the different lower rear shock mount.
  2. No, because with locked hubs, even in 2wd the broken CV is being turned passively by the wheel. Unlocking the hub uncouples the CV from the wheel, so you have essentially isolated the CV at the wheel and at the transfer case.
  3. Hey all, As I've recently been playing around in the Waimakariri river (and do a fair few trips involving crossings) I wanted to install a snorkel on my R50. However, I didn't like how the R50 snorkel necessitated cutting through the front subframe (and they're damn expensive). Instead, I have purchased a snorkel for a GU Patrol. I have spent the evening test-fitting it and sorting out the intake, and I'm pleased to report it should (in theory) fit. The pipe that comes out of the back of the snorkel body is 3.5", after it goes from a flat section to a tube. To connect the intake, I will use a 3" flexi hose from the airbox, through into the guard, and a 3.5" to 3" PVC reducer. I believe this should work. And yes, it is a damn tight fit inside the fender. Pics will come on Sunday when I attempt the install. The only problem is that the R50 door is a "clamshell" style and wraps around the A-pillar, so I have had to install it at a more vertical angle to compensate. This means that the snorkel head will sit out from the A-pillar and require a custom top bracket. Perhaps I should have used a D22 snorkel, but I wanted a challenge, and this only cost me $129NZ to my door.
  4. If I were you, instead of using the more modern 4wd system with the Auto function and switch, I would install the older 2wd/4wd/4lo transfer case, which doesn't need any electrics to work. This way you could do it as a purely mechanical swap. Of course, you wouldn't have a dash light to tell you you're in 4wd, but you don't really need one anyway. Only thing is you'd have to source centre console trim from a pre-facelift with a manual transfer case shifter.
  5. I had a thought the other day, that since our R50s are equipped with 3-channel ABS, could we install switches to activate the ABS on the individual front wheels to act as traction control? Would be very convenient to simply flick a switch and drive out if you got cross-axled, by braking the front wheel in the air. Having owned a vehicle with traction control, it's the only thing I miss when driving my R50 offroad. The efficacy of the switch system could be further increased by fitting a Torsen LSD to the front R200 diff, as these are at their most effective when paired with a traction control system, which provides enough force to make the LSD work when a wheel is lifted. The only problem I can see with this system is if the ABS requires brake pedal pressure to work.
  6. How much have I spent? Too much haha. But worth it. I plan on keeping this vehicle and building it as a tourer and ski vehicle, it's so nice to drive with the auto 4wd. Long term I'll probably buy a Leaf EV for a daily. Anyway. Springs were $450 for set of 4, shocks $300, front struts $450 (including strut bellows/bump stops), bushes $450 for complete front & rear. ~$1700 NZD, which isn't bad considering I've replaced every moving part in the suspension except the sway bar parts (and panhard bushes). HD rears only? I replaced my front springs as they had sagged a good amount. I bought the struts from Rockauto. Priced them in NZ and it was even more, plus the bellows (the bump stop is attached at the top, on my old struts it had fallen off and was resting down the bottom. Yes, my father used OEM trailing arm bushes on his Regulus. Apparently my Superpro ones were cheaper at $240 for the set of 8. Will see how they last, he went through two sets of OEM from towing our Stabicraft. I'm running Nolathane on the front control arms. Also made a typo in the previous post, should be 670 mm not 600 mm. Bushes were actually cheapest instore from Supercheap, did some shopping around. Urethane isn't cheap, but the steering is mint now. Only complaint is that the KYB front struts aren't damped as firmly as I would have liked. The dent in the Procomp shocks shouldn't affect their function as they have an extra skin on the outside. I'm pretty happy with how it sits, just needs another 35-45 mm in the front to level it out, and some new wheels. Current ones look poky as. Both of those things will happen eventually. The Monroe 16-043 I had were good shocks, actually valved a bit stiffer than procomp (they're made for towing really, PO had a caravan). I'm keeping them in case the WOF guy doesn't like my procomps though. Just don't flex hugely as they're a bit short (570 mm extended vs 670 mm for procomps).
  7. Flexing out my new setup. Ironman 35 mm lift springs all round, +50 kg front +200 kg rear. KYB front struts, KYB bumpstops/boots. Nolathane front bushes, superpro rears. Procomp ES3000 326500 rear shocks (these do hit the panhard mount, yes). Factory front skid plate, 31/10.5r15 Goodride SL366 mud tyres. OEM JDM alloys.
  8. Sorry, the above post should read 400 mm minimum length.
  9. Have now had a chance to fit my new shocks in the rear. They're perfect in terms of length, but the fact they can't be mounted upside down is a slight problem - first time offroad I bent the shock body on the panhard bar end... Should have gotten the invertable Bilsteins perhaps (not the Procomp ES3000 326500). However, the dent on the shock body doesn't seem to have affected their function as the ES3000 has an outer body which contains only oil, and the piston moves within a separate inner skin Time will tell. When flexing down at the Waimakariri, I measured 15" travel hub to wheel arch, and I still had another 40 mm or so uptravel on the stuffed side... Great flex. Front end, I had 4" travel My mate's KZJ78 Prado with a 4" lift struggled to get 10" flex with the swaybar in, and got 12" with it out in the rear. It did get 9" in the front though. so, you can safely run 11" travel shocks with a compressed length of 600 mm on an R50 with 400 mm long rear springs. Just make sure they're narrow body or invertable. I tell you what though, with the new suspension it's so good offroad. really makes the most of it, and the spring rates are perfect front and rear (not too stiff and not too much spring lift at the front to maintain articulation). My educated guesses were about right.
  10. Have now had a chance to fit my new shocks in the rear. They're perfect in terms of length, but the fact they can't be mounted upside down is a slight problem - first time offroad I bent the shock body on the panhard bar end... Should have gotten the invertable Bilsteins perhaps (not the Procomp ES3000 326500). When flexing down at the Waimakariri, I measured 15" travel hub to wheel arch, and I still had another 40 mm or so uptravel on the stuffed side... Great flex. Front end, I had 4" travel My mate's KZJ78 Prado with a 4" lift struggled to get 10" flex with the swaybar in, and got 12" with it out in the rear. It did get 9" in the front though. so, you can safely run 11" travel shocks with a compressed length of 600 mm on an R50 with 400 mm long rear springs. Just make sure they're narrow body or invertable. I tell you what though, with the new suspension it's so good offroad. really makes the most of it, and the spring rates are perfect front and rear (not too stiff and not too much spring lift at the front to maintain articulation). My educated guesses were about right.
  11. I'm now running the Ironman +35 mm lift springs, with +50 kg front and +200 kg rear increased load. The springs are red not the usual Ironman yellow. Fronts are 370 mm high and rears 400 mm high when freestanding. I have done the calculations and the procomp shocks I have now purchased should keep the spring captive at full droop while still allowing full compression (just). The springs are rated + 50 kg for a VG33 Pathie, so with the QD32 and twin batteries the front end is perfect, rides just a little firmer than standard and I still got around 35 mm lift over my old saggy springs. I now have 270 mm under the front skidplate. I am considering fitting 20 mm strut spacers in the front to even out the rake. The CV angle is currently a little over flat, so will still be safe. At the same time as fitting the springs I also did new KYB front struts and strut bumpstops, and Nolathane control arm bushes in the front and Superpro poly bushes in the rear. Rides like a new vehicle now. The +200 kg springs are great too, doesn't ride harshly at all. Overall I'm very happy with the mods I've done, and would definitely recommend this combo to sharpen up handling and ride. Am looking forward to fitting my new shocks and testing it out with a load offroad!
  12. Will hopefully have answers on suspension in the next day or two. Fuel-wise, varies a bit depending on what I'm doing. Open road, ~10-11 L/100km. Around town, 11-12. Towing, I've seen up to 15 (ouch). Have now driven a mate's 2.7 R50 (R3m-R), but he has a 3" downpipe and 2.5" straight exhaust. MIne has similar power until ~3000 rpm when his takes off - the lack of resistance allows the turbo to spool a lot better it seems. Engine can wait, it has enough power that I'm satisfied.
  13. Measured my Ironman springs (NISS034B/NISS035B). Fronts measured 370 mm, rears 400 mm length. Springs are being fitted today. Will then take measurements of the mounting points and do some trigonometry to see if these procomp shocks will be too long or not. However I am confident they should be fine. AC 2" lift springs are 385 mm in length, and these 35 mm Ironman lift springs are 15 mm longer. The shocks I am planning on running have roughly 25 mm more downtravel than the Rancho shocks commonly used with the AC springs, so my extra 25 mm of hypotenuse should hopefully not be too much for my extra 15 mm of spring (essentially the other side of the right angle triangle formed by the shocks and springs). If it is too long, I'll get some 15 mm spring spacers for a LR Defender to take me to a (still legal) 50 mm lift.
  14. Cheers for the replies. The procomp shocks I was looking at are rated at 15.91" compressed so they should work. I'll give them a whirl I think, after taking some more measurements regarding spring length and perch heights etc.
  15. QD32ETI, goes pretty well but could use an exhaust and ecu flash. Suspension is standard other than Monroe 16 series shocks to fit an r50. Measured the shocks at full flex - length was 596 mm extended, and 430 mm compressed giving an effective 7" travel. I have new suspension to go in, with 35 mm Ironman lift springs (for petrol but rated +50 kg in front so should be about right for a comfortable lift). Also new kyb front struts, nolothane bushes all round and will likely order some procomp 326500 shocks for an effective 11" travel in the rear, along with an extended brake hose from a frontier.
  16. Hi all, been lurking here for a couple of month since acquiring my Terrano. It's a 1997 JDM G3M-R Limited model, powered by the QD32ETi diesel with the 4-speed auto and electric 4wd. As it's done 225,000 km the suspension is pretty tired and I've got a long list of parts ordered/here to get it back to where it should be, including new KYB front struts, a set of Nolathane control arm bushes, and 35 mm raised Ironman springs (I went with Ironman as I wanted the softest lift spring I could get to maintain articulation, especially at the front). If they sag then that's what strut spacers are for, right? My question is, does anyone know the longest length rear shock that can be used with the Ironman rear springs? If anyone had the length of the spring on hand I'd be much obliged (mine haven't arrived yet). Currently the vehicle has Monroe 16-0423 shocks on the back. I went and flexed the truck up yesterday and took some measurements - fully flexed, the stuffed side was sitting on the bumpstop and measured 430 mm from bolt-bolt. Fully drooped, they measured 600 mm. This essentially gives me 7 inches of usable travel, with a large amount of wasted uptravel (Monroe rate them at 365 mm compressed 595 mm extended). From research I have done, the best and most suitable extended-length shock would be the Procomp ES3000 326500. This is rated at 405 mm compressed and 688 mm extended, which would give me approximately 11 inches of usable travel, some 4 inches more than I currently have. I'm open to replacing the brake line if I need to (Centric p/n 15042354 apparently fits and is 4 inches longer than standard, for a Frontier). What I'm most concerned about is whether or not the Ironman spring will be captive with a shock of that length. I'd rather not use spring spacers, but I would like those 11" shocks! Here's a few pics of the truck. It's pretty much standard, with only a GME TX3100 UHF radio and 31x10.5r15 Goodride SL366 mud-terrain tyres currently, which fit the original alloys with no rubbing at all. It also has a JDM dealer option front skid plate, which is very sturdy (4 mm alloy with 4 mm overrunners) and has held up well to the worst that the West Coast could throw at it. Photos were taken on the Huntsbury track on the Christchurch Port Hills, New Zealand.
  17. Hey, little bit of a necro-post but I'm also wanting to lift my R50 using a spacer kit in the front and 50 mm King springs in the rear (already have longer shocks). Would you be able to give me the details on how the spacers don't need cert? All the reading I've done seems to indicate that strut spacers need cert as they change the OEM suspension mounting points. I have emailed the LVVTA and received this response: Yes, strut spacers do indeed require certification. Unless the modification is specifically listed by NZTA in their threshold, then it requires LVV cert, and strut spacers are not excluded. Regards
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