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Everything posted by KiwiTerrano

  1. Well, truck is ticking along nicely. Have fitted a set of rock sliders and extended upper ball joints. Front flex is better and no more bangs from the upper arm hitting the tower. Have left out he rear sway bar, honestly can't tell the difference onroad but it's much better off. Have done a few more trips with the club, she's pretty good. Next mods will be PSR rear subframe spacer kit and a rear locker.
  2. https://izh-techno.ru/series/blokka-nissan-patrol-33-shlitsa/ Here's the link for the Russian one
  3. Well, vehicle has been performing well. Went into the St James conservation area with the club to marshal the multisport event held there annually. Developed a bit of a clunk halfway through the weekend that then went away again. Didn't think much of it at the time. Went to install my new sliders today and my mate mentioned that the rear sway bar looked a bit off. Turned out that I had completely destroyed the right rear endlink and snapped one of the bolts holding the right swaybar bracket on, allowing the bracket to bend and the bar to move about. Thankfully no collateral damage. The right swaybar endlink had completely lost the middle section leaving me with just two ball headed bolts sticking out of the mounts! Was a right PITA to get the swaybar out though. I needed every Nm of my impact wrench to get the endlinks off on both sides. Not to mention getting an open ended wrench in behind the mounts is bloody tight. 13 years of coastal Otago salt (when it lived in Dunedin with my old man) were not kind to the endlinks. I have real sympathy for those who live in the US with road salt as mine wasn't bad by comparison. Needless to say, it's not going back on unless the WOF guy pulls me up on it (and even then, I'll be throwing the swaybar and some new endlinks at him and telling him to fit it himself). Took it for a spin and can't notice the difference to be honest. My old terrano with 11" shocks, now that was quite different with no RSB... Sometimes I feel that the r51 just wasn't as well engineered as the earlier Nissans.
  4. Thanks, there's some unique vehicles in the land rover club that's for sure! One day hopefully I'll have enough cash for one. They're not cheap to buy (or run lol). I've got a 6 mm steel treadplate skidplate under the sump. Have also got a fair bit more lying around to make a trans/transfer skid with. I just needed a better front plate to protect the radiator and trans cooler as the factory one is crap.
  5. New 4 mm steel front skidplate, Kings awning and a trip into the Clarence Valley (Muzzle Station) with the club
  6. But you don't really need a 4" lift. With a 2" spring lift in the front and 33" tyres, I have 350 mm clearance under both diffs, which is really plenty. I've not needed any more than that.
  7. It should fit the front but the problem will be lifting the rear - maximum spring lift is 2", then you need to drop the subframe as well. You'll also need longer brake lines to match in the rear. PSR in Aussie do a rear subframe drop kit and so do Calmini.
  8. Agreed. If it blew a head gasket, it must have gotten hot? Therefore I would focus on cooling system maintenance. Depending on mileage, you could also replace the water pump whilst you have the timing gear off as that requires removal of timing chain to do. Definitely completely replace all the timing gear. I would also check or replace the thermostat, and remove the radiator and wash it out from the back side to remove debris from the fins, and give it a good internal flushing too. While you're there, replace the entire belt drive system - all pulleys, belt and tensioner. Ensure the belt is the correct length as these vehicles are quite sensitive to the wrong length belt and/or a bad tensioner. Could also replace the viscous fan hub too while you're there. Definitely bypass the in-radiator trans lines and fit an external cooler. Will help your vehicle run cooler on a hot day. Could replace the cam sensors too if you're really keen as they're another failure point. Ensure you have bled the system properly - surprisingly difficult due to the rear heater setup. In terms of performance mods, I find the VQ40 to have quite acceptable performance in standard trim. You could replace the spark plugs too, as they require removing the intake manifold to do so may as well kill that bird since you've got it apart.
  9. Don't change the radiator. Just bypass the trans cooler pipe in it and fit a proper external cooler.
  10. It's really straightforward. Once you get the skidplate off it's pretty obvious what hose goes where
  11. I would also recommend upgrading suspension. I run 35 mm King lift springs, standard rate, with Bilstein dampers. Very good all round package. King springs can be bought cheaply off Ebay. Bilstein shocks can be bought for a very good price off Rockauto.com I use Rockauto to source almost all of my parts.
  12. The R51 is pretty reliable. My main recommendation would be to bypass the in radiator transmission lines. I've done this with mine. Took about ten minutes to reroute the trans fluid lines to bypass the radiator and only run through the factory external trans cooler. If yours doesn't have an external trans cooler I would also recommend fitting one at the same time. I believe both the petrol and diesel engines used have timing chains not belts so shouldn't hav any problems there. Just use high quality oil and service religiously. When purchasing any secondhand vehicle I always like to get all the fluids changed (coolant, brakes, diffs, gearbox and transfer) to ensure I know exactly what's in there. Personally I run Penrite oils in my r51. The penrite ATF covers both Nismatic D and J standards. The transfer case takes D standard ATF and the trans takes J standard. Other than requiring a couple of O2 sensors and catalytic converters, and one exhaust manifold cracking, my r51 VQ40DE has been totally reliable from brand new (my father bought it new in 2007) to its current 200,000 kms. A lot of what you hear online is disgruntled owners who've had problems. When maintained properly a Japanese vehicle should be very reliable.
  13. The ATTESA 4wd system uses a small torque converter with a lockup clutch to split power to the front wheels. Therefore, the maximum torque split to the front is 50%. The rear end is always directly and mechanically driven, so even if you accidentally stick it in AUTO with the front hubs unlocked you won't notice any loss of drive. It may damaged the transfer if you left it in for too long though. When in low range, there is a locking spline inserted that mechanically locks the transfer into a 50:50 torque split. So if you're in low box already, even if all the electrics crap out you're still mechanically centre locked and in low box. Trouble might be disengaging it... Personally I've never had any troubles with the 4-mode system in either my r50 or r51 Pathies. My R50 was the older design with the dial for 2wd auto and lock, and the lever for low box though. The QX4 is mechanically identical.
  14. The urban model is just a trim spec. I believe they're still 4wd. Some of them are manuals too, although the manual only came with the TD27. Difficult to manual swap a turbo QD32ETI Terrano as unlike NA QD32s and all TD27s, they had a 7 bolt flywheel not a 6 bolt. IDK why, guess it's the higher torque figure.
  15. Went out again last weekend, led a trip to the Coast with the Land Rover Club. Link to a video of the trip is below.
  16. I think longer end links would fix the problem. Another inch or so would make all the difference.
  17. 200,000 km service today. Spark plugs replaced Oil and filter Transfer case drained and refilled New front struts (Bilstein 5100 with adjustable perch). Old shocks were OEM which at 200 thou were pretty stuffed and not up to it with the bullbar on. Rear shocks were replaced when the lift springs went in 50,000 kms ago. I will also need to fit extended upper ball joints (available from PSR in aussie) as that upper angle is bad...
  18. Went out again last weekend, club training day up the Ashley River. Good fun all round.
  19. The bilsteins can be mounted upside down to suit pre vs post facelift. Nissan swapped the upper and lower mounts over halfway through the production run. Being a monotube shock, the bilstein can be run inverted with no problems. On the pre facelift, it is advisable to run it inverted with the body at the too to avoid the pan hard bar end hitting the shock body. I ran procomp shocks, which you couldn't invert, and had that problem.
  20. Fitted up my 33" spare - 255/75r17 to match my 255/85r16 tyres. Also a BFG MT. Only JUST fitted - very tight. Had to let it down to about 4 PSI. Would have gone in more easily if the towbar was just a little further out. I think my bar must differ from US spec ones as some here have fitted 33" spares no worries. In case you're wondering, the factory Nissan towbar is incredibly strong. I broke a Toyota towbar in half at the tongue weld when doing a moderate recovery with an 8 ton snatch strap... and yes, I removed the ball and replaced it with a shackle. Also went on a fun evening trip with the Land Rover club down at the Ashley River. 18 vehicles. I was the only Nissan. Lots of slippery mud and a few nice off camber bits and ruts.

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