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Everything posted by KiwiTerrano

  1. JDM HID lights are fantastic. The low beam HID are extremely good, especially when paired with good aftermarket bulbs. I'm running Osram Nightbreaker D2S in mine and the light output is unbelievable. Better than any other vehicle I've ever been in. The high beams on the JDM lights are also great, they're shaped like driving lamps and output a good amount of light even with factory bulbs. Am contemplating getting a set of nightbreakers for them too in halogen form. My light output is on a par with all my mates with massive light bars haha
  2. I deleted the second airbox, and used a flexi hose from supercheap auto and a 3" PVC elbow from Bunnings to connect the snorkel to the standard airbox. Plus lots of silicone to seal it all up. I also run the snorkel head backwards now, as I found that the ram was introducing too much crap into my airbox. Opened it up and found that one side of my filter was coated in "mud" (from where water had wet the dust) and insects and the bottom of the airbox was full of water. Looked like the ram head hadn't been ejecting water properly. Runs much cleaner backwards, I'm only getting dust now & no water. Also check your air filter fits the airbox, the previous owner had fitted a filter that was 3 cm too short and so heaps of crap was getting sucked straight past it onto my MAF... I had to replace that as it wasn't running right. Luckily the turbo seems OK.
  3. Removing the glow plugs would do it for two reasons. One, it will be difficult as hell to start with no glow. Two, there will be no compression at all, and so it won't fire. I'd also recommend removing the fuse for the fuel pump and unplugging the output hose from the fuel filter in the engine bay to avoid spraying diesel everywhere. Although you will then have to re-prime the fuel system. Probably a good idea to change the fuel filter anyway if it's been sitting (or at least after running it for a little bit). Good luck, the TD is a great engine.
  4. Surely in a high speed collision however, the force of the impact would be sufficient to shear one or both bolts holding the link in place?
  5. Yes, to me it makes no sense why Nissan never put a link there. From looking at the design of the suspension the rear of the crossmember is under huge stress. A missing link should make no difference to your CVs.
  6. Yes. From looking at the photo, it appears that on the compressed side, the shock is fully compressed but the axle is not sitting on the bumpstop, meaning you definitely need to extend the bumpstop. It also looks like you're about to get coil bind on the compressed side, again meaning you need to extend the bumpstop. Looks good overall though
  7. I would agree, I trawled through a lot of shock options to try & find a better one & couldn't.
  8. Yes, when fitting longer shocks you need to measure the length of your spring and then use trigonometry to calculate if your shocks are too long. Personally I would recommend either the Bilstein 33-185552, which works on pre or post-facelift, or the Procomp ES326500 (cheaper, but only compatible with post-facelift, as you can't mount them inverted and the body interferes with the panhard rod on pre-facelift). Both shocks have the same mounting design. The above shocks give the maximum downtravel without having to lower the bumpstops (to avoid damaging the shock under full compression), and work with 400 mm long springs or longer. Here's a table of shocks I have compiled. Shocks.xlsx
  9. Yes, on my prefacelift r50 the shocks make the hypotenuse of a right angled triangle, which allowed me to use trigonometry to calculate the maximum shock length for my springs.
  10. That all sounds fine, so long as the springs are long enough to remain captive at full droop.
  11. Should consider a diesel swap if you're concerned about fuel economy. My QD32 powered factory diesel R50 does about 10 L/100km on the open road and around 12 L/100 km around town. Great truck.
  12. Throwback to just after I had the front end rebuilt and fitted my custom recovery points
  13. Nah, the springs in my R50 with 220,000km were bottoming out going over speed bumps. Have since replaced with Ironman springs. World of difference. I'm interested to see someone use a different spring to the 9446. Am considering going to a 50+ mm lift myself, and am thinking about getting a set of NRC2119 springs. I prefer a longer softer rate spring for maximising travel. http://www.red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html Link to the table of rover springs. You have to use "front" springs as rear are wrong diameter. If you're carrying that much weight the 9446 is a good match I'd say. Although using a longer spring also allows you to use longer rear shocks without retention issues.
  14. Yes. I'm running Ironman 35 mm lift springs which are 400 mm in length (rear). I have procomp ES326500 shocks which are 15.94" compressed and 27.07" extended for travel of 11.13" This is basically the longest shock you can run for several reasons. Firstly, the compressed length is barely short enough for the bumpstops to work properly & avoid ruining the shocks at full compression. Secondly, if the extended length were any longer the springs would drop out. I did some trigonometry to calculate the max shock length before purchasing. For a 400 mm long rear spring, maximum length from the centre of the bolts on either end of the shock is 27". Otherwise you will have problems with spring retention, and the compressed length of the shock cannot be greater than 405 mm or so (16"). Preferably <400 or <15.9". I am pushing the limits on both compression and extension with these shocks, but the results are worth it. If people are running a front subframe drop and are prepared to extend the rear bumpstops to allow for a shock with a longer compressed length then of course you can run a 29" extended shock. I have built my truck to flex as well as possible with minimal lift. I have attached a list of various rear shock options, OEM replacement and various aftermarket. Shocks.xlsx
  15. A 2" spring lift, when used with standard shocks, will reduce your downtravel by 2". This may not sound like much, but when you consider the standard shocks have only 8" of travel, and are usually setup for 4" uptravel & 4" downtravel, you are essentially reducing your downtravel to 2"... Therefore, if you want to actually use the vehicle offroad, I dare say it would be an issue. Fitting longer shocks absolutely transformed the capability of my vehicle offroad, as did removing the RSB. Maximising wheel travel is critical when one does not have lockers or traction control.
  16. KYB struts for the front. Rear use something other than KYB as they're too short if you're lifting it - you won't get good travel as you will be limiting the downtravel severely. I'm running 11" travel Procomp rear shocks with no RSB and the flex is ungodly.
  17. Watch the mighty car mods episode on plugin tuning chips. If you want a real difference you have to spend real $ eg unichip
  18. See this thread Also, I love my JDM projectors... Also the rest of my JDM diesel R50 haha
  19. Onroad manners are fine without the swaybar. Marginally more prone to understeer but nothing drastic. Removing the front sway bar is what causes dangerous changes in handling. Many vehicles do not have a factory rear sway bar but very few have no front sway bar. I'm also running polyurethane bushes front and rear which really helped roadholding too. Not cheap though.
  20. It's generally accepted that the correct way to mount a shock is with the body down -- ergo, upside-down is with the body at the top. Only do this with monotubes.
  21. They will fit but again need to be mounted upside down. However, this is entirely doable. This is because firstly, unlike the KYB, the Bilstein is a monotube shock and will work inverted, instead of having no damping and eventually failing like the KYB will. Secondly, the Bilstein has no steel shaft cover, so will not fill with water/mud. I would still recommend using a rubber cover to avoid grit damaging the seals. Lastly, I actually recommend mounting them upside down on the pre-facelift anyway, as some longer shocks will hit the panhard rod and become damaged if installed with the body down. The altered mounts on the facelift solve this problem by moving the bottom of the shock further out.
  22. Don't feel too disheartened - the LSD is way better than no LSD. One of my mates has a Terrano exactly like mine with no LSD and I can outwheel his with ease. It makes a lot of difference so long as your rear wheels can both touch the ground - it prevents all the power going to one wheel if it momentarily goes onto looser ground. I'd recommend fitting some longer shocks eg Bilstein or Procomp ES326500, and removing the rear sway bar. Cheaper, easier,much nicer to drive onroad and arguably more effective most of the time than just shimming the LSD up.
  23. Yeah, the R50 LSD is good, but if there's no weight on one rear wheel or it's on an exceptionally slippery surface then it won't work as the breakaway torque is lower than that needed to push the vehicle forward. The LSD in my R50 makes some pretty bad clunks & other noises sometimes. I've given up worrying as it hasn't got any worse in the 25,000 km I've owned it. I figure it's the differential as I've replaced every single bush in the rear end, the shocks, and have no sway bar.
  24. I agree with the above posters, I think you've just cross-axled it and are getting diagonal wheelspin. I would be very surprised if there were only one wheel spinning, as there is no way of getting power to only 1 front wheel in any of these vehicles, being primarily rear-wheel drive.

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