KiwiTerrano

TD27, QD32, 1KZ, 3L or 5L. Or an Isuzu or mitsi.

I think the idle is just a QD thing, dad's has always been rough. Here's a pic side by side

It's an XROX bar. They're Aussie made, ~1300AU plus shipping, will hopefully be fitting one to my R50 in the next few months. They're airbag compliant and also have mounting bolts for recovery points on the side of the winch cradle.

That won't do much. You really need a full bar like this

JDM. Also on my truck (which is entirely JDM with a diesel ?)

That is incredibly tidy! Another Christchurch-based R50 owner here myself. Mine's the Terrano G3M-R Limited, also with the QD32 and 4-mode lever + dial 4wd. Mine's also nowhere near as tidy as yours... although it has been modified and used offroad so that's my own fault. I have a (cheaply and quickly) made rear shelf setup with a hinged lid to keep things from sliding around when offroad, but no bed setup like yours. My father has a Regulus, a 1996 model with the QD32. His is the basic RS-R, not the Limited with leather like yours. He bought it in 1997 as a fresh import with 3,000 km on it! Has now done 340,000 km with nothing but basic maintenance and suspension. Great trucks. Mine's done 240,000.

Just a random pic to show off the insane JDM spoiler/wing. Here's one of the situations I got snatched from... Note the rear tyre is off the ground! Diffed out hard... And a pic of the XROX bar

It's not very spectacular, just about a 3 mm kink right in the middle of the lower rad support. You'd hardly notice it otherwise.

Will do. Hopefully will have it early Jan sometime. I like the XROX design because it will transfer the load from the recovery points basically straight into the fake chassis rails, rather than being attached to the subframe/lower rad support like the factory points which also sit a bit low for when you bury the nose in mud... Ask me how I know haha

Have done some reasonably aggressive 4wding in my Terrano on 31s (a bit out of its depth) and had to be both winched and snatched from the front several times. The first recovery I was stuck at a slight angle around a corner. All pulls were done using a 4 m 4000 kg rated distribution strop between the two front eyes with rated bow shackles, and then a 9 m 8000 kg rated snatch strap for the snatch. The first snatch, there was a nasty "bang" sound from the front end... I thought something had broken but it looked ok at the time. At home, I noticed that my lower rad support had buckled very slightly in the middle at the front, and that the two points were now slightly bowed in. I reckon if I hadn't used a distribution strap I would have pulled one of the points off. However, they still held up to another few tows and one winch. At the rear I have a bolt-on recovery hook, designed to open out if overstressed, on the towbar. I plan to fit an XROX winch bar, which has mounts for two rated recovery hooks same I have on the back, on either side of the winch cradle.

Looks great. So that's with Fleury's 50 mm spacers all round, to give 2.5" of lift? On standard springs? Can't wait to see what mine looks like on 50 mm front strut spacers with a ~1" diff drop (just diff not subframe) and 2" lift springs (combined 4.5" total front lift). Rear will have Fleury's 2.5" spacers on 2" lift springs too. Might upgrade to 4" springs if the front end works okay later on. In theory, that should mean my CV angles are safe at maximum downtravel (2.5" lift from the 50 mm strut top spacer, minus the diff drop to keep them a bit under 2" "total" spacer lift), and give me the same strut droop as a 2" spring lift, with an extra 2.5" of clearance (albeit 1" less under the diff). Total lift will likely be a bit less than 4.5" anyway as I have the QD32 ironblock turbodiesel, factory twin batteries and I'm going to hang an XROX bullbar and 12,000 lb poly-rope winch off the front too.

The problem only arises in the last half-inch of downtravel. SO as long as you stay on road and don't "top out" the struts (especially when putting power through the CVs) you should theoretically be OK. I would recommend an alignment with camber bolts (you may need them in both front strut bolt holes) ASAP as without an alignment it'll drive like crap and chew through tyres. A diff drop can be done later without needing realingment as you don't need to take the front struts out for that, just unbolt the axles & drop the diff. BUT this isn't an easy proposition and very few have done it on an R50. I haven't done mine yet but have the 50 mm spacers to go in once I get it done.

The maximum front spacer you can run is 35 mm without having CV problems when fully drooping the suspension. This gives 2" of actual lift. The 50 mm strut spacer gives 2.5" of lift, which is too much for the CV axles without a corresponding 0.5" diff drop to compensate. Note that the diff drop referred to above is not a subframe drop, which is a whole nother kettle of fish.

If you run a skinny 33, ie a 10.5 not 12.5 section, or a 255/85r16 they'll fit better than a 12.5 or a 285/75r16

Would be easy enough to cut a hole for them. Can provide a photo of the hole shape if you need from my JDM Terrano. With factory HIDs ?

Taking this one step further, I was having bad thoughts the other day about fitting 255/85r16 tyres...

Also, if you're getting his spacers remember that the 35 mm spacer gives 50 mm (2") of lift in the front - the 2" spacer gives 2.5" lift which is too much for the CVs to handle.

I'm afraid even the genuine R50 snorkels require chopping rather a lot of the front subframe out... I was not happy about that. If I were to do it again I'd buy the D22 version and try that first.

For sure, also have another mate with a tidy R3m-R, snorkel, lift, 31" Coopers etc... Handy hint for installing snorkels - DON'T! Huge PITA. Mine was an absolute mission. He paid to have his installed. Smart move. And thanks for that link, it clarified exactly what I thought about how to change the bulb. Great community here, very much like the Subaru forums I used to frequent.

No idea sorry, I just drive the thing and do maintenance. ORE is your best bet.

yeah I am on that forum too, different username though

Think I've found what I need (the part number) - D2S Xenon bulb Now, to find a cheap one to order and then test-fit... Pulling the back off the projector looks to be the hard part (it's actually bolted on, by the looks of it). https://powerbulbs.com/eu/store/category/xenon-hid-bulbs-d2s-d2r-d1s-d1r/fitting/d2s-85122

Not quite, the early 4-mode trucks (such as my 1997 JDM G3M-R with the QD32) have the knob/switch/dial to select 2wd/auto/4ed lock, and the lever to select low ratio (which also automatically locks the centre diff if you leave the dial in 2wd). Only the post-facelift R50 from 1999 on had all 4 modes on the dial and no low-range lever.

Noticed tonight that my left low-beam headlight (factory HID) has turned a pink colour and is nowhere near as bright as the right one, which is still the original blue colour. I have no idea what the part number is for the HID bulbs, as my truck is a Japanese import to New Zealand. If anyone could enlighten me as to the part number for factory Nissan HID bulbs, and even where to purchase from, that would be great. Cheers.

Also MCC make several styles of bar to fit the R50, not sure if these are available in the States though.