Bax03SE

Did you say if it’s doing this with or without the hubs locked? Or both? If it was related to the manual hubs, then it should only happen when they are unlocked because when the hubs are locked it is no different than the stock configuration.

The power valves are still a job that I need to tackle on mine. I agree that if anything it’s worth the piece of mind.

Any kind of tune or chip like this is definitely a waste of money. Tunes do work, but not universal stuff like this. The only kind of tune that actually does anything is a legitimate vehicle specific tuner that accesses the computer via the obd2 port and makes permanent changes to the ecu programming. As far as I know, no company has ever put the time and money into developing tunes for the R50 platform.

Nice work! How were the power valve screws before you took them out? Did anything seem loose?

I need to look into getting some hub centric rings like that. I’m also running non hub centric spacers and I’ve learned that when I take the wheels and spacers off, I really need to go slow hand tightening each lug nut a little at a time to make sure it’s all smooth and balanced. If I run one lug nut even semi snug before tightening the others, then it isn’t quite centered right and I get vibrations. Are you just using the ring between the spacer and the original hub, or do you also have something to center the wheel onto the spacer? I like running the spacers because it opens up the wheel options a lot.

Apparently these bushings are more age related than miles. My 03 only has 89k miles, but I’ve been trying to track down an intermittent front end clunk and decided to check the diff mounts tonight. Sure enough, the rubber is cracked and dry rotted and the diff can easily be moved all around with just the pressure of a screwdriver as a pry bar, replicating the clunk I’ve been hearing/feeling. I decided to take the easy way out and order new arms with bushings installed instead of messing with pressing in/out the bushings. Each arm is about $80 for a genuine Nissan replacement so I didn’t think that was too bad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You’ll get at least 3 inches out of those due to the higher spring rate.

Regarding the panhard drop, this is what I did and it’s worked out perfect. These pics have been hanging out on page one with my original write up. I moved the panhard bar lower and to the right within the existing bracket and drilled a new mounting hole. This won’t work if your going more than 4 inches or so in the back. But for the lift levels most of us are running I think it makes sense. I have about 3 maybe 3.5 inches of lift and this has my rear axle sitting dead center where it should be. The old mounting hole is circled in yellow for reference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My lower oil pan was rusted, and used rtv only when replacing it and have had no issue. Rtv was used from the factory on the original pan as well.

Maybe I’m just not seeing your vision, but I don’t see how you can get the rear ride height even remotely close to the front without biting the bullet and doing the necessary fabrication to drop everything down. Just by eyeballing it, it looks like you’ve got in the neighborhood of 20 inches or so of lift in the front compared to stock? Trying to get the rear down to that level without fabrication just doesn’t seem feasible to me. And If you want it to ride and track safely I really think you’re going to need to move the mounting points for all the rear links down to keep them reasonably in line with the rear axle. If you drop the axle that far and keep the existing mounting points for the rear trailing arms, you’re going to have them at some very extreme angles that could compromise performance and safety. Same thing for the rear driveshaft. I don’t know if will even extend that far stock, but if it does it will be at an extreme angle. I’m not trying to discourage you in any way. I think this project is awesome and really want to see a well put together SAS R50 hit the trails! I just think it is worth taking the extra time and really thinking this out and doing it right now that you’ve gotten this far.

The perspective from the angled parking spaces adds to the effect, but I saw this silver R50 at Wal Mart, then had to snap a quick pic of the height difference. It’s amazing how much bigger lift/wheels/tires can make the whole truck appear. It was a pretty clean looking R50 btw. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quick pic of the R50 getting some work done! It’s dirty, but honestly that’s how it lives most of it’s life...she’s more function than form! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the factory cooler on my 03 completely bypassed and haven’t had any problems in winter. Granted, Delaware isn’t what I would consider super cold, but I routinely drive it in sub freezing temps (20 degrees or so). I don’t have a trans temp gauge so I have no idea what the temps run but it shifts snoothly abd has never behaved any different than when it was still running the factory set up. I went with the external cooler for mine because I use it for towing and wanted to be sure the temps stayed down under those conditions.

Looks great! I think that space in the bumper is a perfect place for a light bar. My install isn’t quite as clean as yours, but here is what it looks like with a slightly shorter bar in the same spot with side mounted brackets. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like a cool project. Is there something that goes around the face of the clock to finish it off and cover the edges where the hole was cut?

First off, haven’t been on here in a looong time. I picked up a C4 corvette this past summer and that has turned into the project that sucks all my time lately. Still have the R50 though. I’m running 285/75/16 mud terrains which works out to about 33x11.5 with approximately 2.5 to 3 inches of lift. There is just no way you will get 33 or larger tires on that size of lift without cutting into the metal. Personally, I took a lot of time with the trimming on mine so I feel it looks pretty clean and would not be noticeable by anyone unless you have another R50 to compare it to, but it definitely took a lot more trimming than I originally expected. I was also unwilling to accept any rub at all at full lock, so I probably cut a bit more than some who are okay with just “good enough”. That said, if your not shy about cutting I think it’s well worth it. I love the final result of the 33’s with a relatively small amount of lift.

Just a quick random pic of my whole fleet in one spot. I don’t usually have them all in the driveway because the premium spot in front of the garage is reserved for my wife’s van. (She puts up with my car habit, so she deserves the good parking spot). But, I was shuffling cars around to mow tonight. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180622/cd0c9d967a0dcf7e376ccf90c7c0ed7f.heic https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180622/4abb9ea20b2df013063bda36a108df11.heic https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180622/eb95ce809def176b9c1bb984cd23fd43.heic Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry havent been on here in a bit. Pretty much as you said above, for anything 32and over you need a wheel with at least 3.75 backspacing. You will also almost definitely have to remove the mudflaps. Trimming in front of the tire may be needed, but it shouldnt be much. 33 and up will definitely require trimming in both front and back, but even then it really isnt difficult as long as you get over being squeamish about cutting your truck.

I just wanted to extend a general thank you to everyone on this forum for not being d!cks. Seriously, Ive been a member of many different car forums over the years (three right now), and it is very refreshing to be part of a forum where people arent always trying to one up each other or put people down. Generally, when someone asks a question here, people answer without trying to make the person feel stupid for not knowing already. So yeah....thanks! I love my R50 family!

I can personally attest that these engines are perfectly happy eating a quart of oil on a regular basis with no other signs or symptoms. Honestly my truck gives me zero grief outside of needing to keep up on the oil more frequently. I realize not all VQs have the oil consumption issue, but for those that do thats often how it goes. No leaks, no smoking, no fouled cats, just magically disappearing oil!

Ive had this engine in two vehicles now. My current 2003 R50, and previously a 2007 Quest that my wife bought new and drove for 10 years and 150k miles. Both engines used oil about the same rate at around 1 quart every 1500-2000 miles or so. No oil leaks in either engine. Its just something these engines are prone to, I learned to live with it and check the oil more often. Everything else about the truck is great.

I should add that I replaced both CVs not long after lifting it due to cracked boots. Technically they cracked after the lift, but I attribute that more to the age of the joints and the rubber being old and dried out. The new joints and boots have had no trouble.

Looking good!

Im running 2.5 in front. It definitely puts the CVs at the limit for angles, but I havent had any issues yet. I do have manual hubs which helps a lot. But, I also run with the front hubs locked most of the time in the winter to save having to get out of the truck, and so far everything is good.

Moog makes an oem replacement set. Those seem to be the ones I see used most often when people are looking for stock spring replacements. I actually have a set with only a couple thousand miles on them collecting dust in my garage. If you were closer Id let you have them, but from reading your posts I dont think you live anywhere near me (Delaware).