Bax03SE

Quick update on the front springs. I did speak too soon saying there was no top out on the struts. Depending on where I drive I might go a full day without noticing it, but if I hit something like a pothole just right it will definitely do it. I know some people with the AC coils have reported no ill effects from long term top out, but I still don’t like it. It’s a pretty violent bang when it happens and I feel like it can’t be good. I ordered up a set of limiting straps earlier in the week and started mocking them up last night. I’ll share an update on how that works out once completed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks I did a little research earlier and see what you mean.

That’s interesting, I didn’t know that about Yotas, good to know! That makes me wonder what Toyota does to make sure they center properly as compared to putting lug centric rims on the R50 for example. I wonder if the stock Toyota lug centric lug nuts are just a better design? Have you noticed if the lug nuts on your 4Runner are noticeably different in any way?

I should also add that the same method needs to be used for tightening the spacers first, as well as the wheels onto the spacers.

I honestly think all (or at least most) factory wheels are hub centric, it’s really the way they all should since it guarantees the wheel will always be properly centered and balanced. But as with a lot of modifications there often comes a compromise. I’ve found that if you go slow when tightening the lug nuts and keep alternating lugs, only turning each one a little at a time then the rim will center on the lugs properly and you won’t get any wobble. But if you run only one of the lugs too tight at first before tightening the rest, then it can end up off center just enough to be felt as a vibration at high speed.

Yeah I get where you’re coming from. 108mm will work, but it’s not the same as actually being made specifically for the R50, which I agree implies that they will fit the hub exactly like the oem rim would.

I guess it depends on how you define “fitting”. With the bore being slightly larger than stock they will fit fine but will of course be lug centric instead of hub centric centering. 108mm center bore is almost a universal number that most spacers as well as aftermarket rims use. I assume it simply keeps the cost down because it lets the manufacturer produce one item that will fit multiple vehicles. The spacers and rims on my rig are both 108mm. At least it makes it easy to clear all brands of manual hubs!

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Mile markers need studs changed, but it’s easy. Take two nuts and thread them onto the end of each stud so they jamb together, then just back the stud out with a wrench on the bottom but. Mile markers come with new bolts to replace the studs. I don’t know that any brand hub will clear the SE rims like you have. I had those same rims and needed 1.5 inch spacers to clear the hubs. Personally, I like using spacers because it opens up the options for aftermarket rims a ton because there are very few choices in the offset needed for larger tires to clear the strut mount.

Sorry I don’t know any particular brands to recommend. The spacers I’m running are amazon/eBay specials so no specific brand that I recall. I’ve used spacers a lot on many different vehicles, never spent more than $100 for a set of 4, and have never had any trouble with any of them. Hope that helps!

Just for comparison, here’s my aftermarket hitch. I’ve used it a ton and have 0 concerns or complaints. I do like the way the oem unit has a step built in! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t have any experience with the JY/oem route, but if you’re looking to buy new I recommend ordering from etrailer.com. That’s where I got my hitch receiver and wire harness. About $180 will get both the hitch and a plug and play harness. The only other thing you might consider is an aftermarket transmission cooler, but I wouldn’t say that’s mandatory. A good plate and fin cooler can be had for around $50.

It wasn’t from sfcreation, but yes that’s how much lift I had when I put them on. I did have to trim the fender and bumper to get them to fit up front with that little lift.

16x8 with 285/75/16

I’ve had stock (255/65/16), 245/75/16, and 285/75/16. The current 285/75/16 (approx 33x11.5) is a good size in my opinion. Everything fits well, and with the lift in the rear there’s enough room for it to flex without getting caught up on the flair at all. Also the engine has enough power to push the 33’s without feeling under powered. If I change anything I might get 305/70/16 next time which would be just a little wider but same height.

Kind of cool to look at some pictures back to back to see how it’s evolved over the past few years! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t think my wife would say it was fast, I know she feels like I’ve been living in the garage the past couple of weeks! Sometimes it’s a blessing, and sometimes a curse, but when I get started on something I have a really hard time stopping. I’m more likely to just stay up and work through the night than to stop and go back to it the next day.

I have camber bolts so it’s hard to say how it would be with stock strut bolts, but with the camber bolts I have more than enough adjustability to get it where it needs to be.

You might not have read all the way through everything yet, I put in a 3 inch SFD yesterday so the CV angles have been addressed. It was definitely binding without the SFD, I really didn’t even drive it after putting the front springs in and went straight into working on the drop.

I was a little worried about that but so far I haven’t noticed anything. Keep in mind I have both springs and strut spacers, so half the lift is from the spacers on top of the strut. The spacers are 2 inches (2.5 inches of lift) and I got another 2.5 from the springs.

Yeah I hadn’t even paid attention to that until I happened to really look at it from that front angle for the first time. That had nothing to do with my original reason to try this, but it’s a nice bonus. So far I still really like how the springs ride. I’ve had it around town and up to 80 on the highway and it rides nice. I don’t expect anything to change, a coil spring isn’t exactly a high tech item that wears out lol!

Also a side note regarding the new front spring set up. With this configuration, any concerns about wheel backspacing and strut spacing are pretty much a non issue. I could hack off the offending first few inches of the strut perch if I wanted because it’s just kind of hanging out there as waisted space now. I don’t have any plans of changing my wheel and tire combo any time soon, but figured it was with mentioning. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think it looks great!

Thanks! I’m planning a trip to the pine barrens in NJ next month with some friends. Should be fun! That’s why I was in such a hurry to get it done....I didn’t want to be like “sorry guys, I know the truck looks tough but I can’t engage 4wd because I’m afraid of blowing a CV, lol! With the front jacked up and axles at full droop, I locked the hubs and spun the wheels and everything is nice and smooth without even a hint of binding, it’s a beautiful thing!

I used round steel tubing for the sfd spacers. I’m not sure I’ve seen other spacers made with round tube instead of square, but I like how they turned out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk