Bax03SE

That picture is your main muffler.

If you dont get snow, have you ever considered a mud terrain instead of all terrain?

Have you ran the new KO2s or the older model BFG AT? Just asking because the KO2 is a totally redesigned tire and when I ran them they were one of the best tires Ive ever ran in snow/ice, even compared to dedicated snow tires I was impressed.

https://www.amazon.com/Specialty-Products-Company-81260-Alignment/dp/B000CB2GOU These are the camber bolts I have.

It seems to vary from vehicle to vehicle. Some people need camber bolts and others are able to get it aligned within spec without.

Im sure youll get a lot of tire suggestions, but the best AT tire Ive ever ran were the BFG AT KO2s, excellent traction in almost all conditions and very little road noise as well.

Excellent summary Raingoat, TY! Looks good to me from what I know so far.

Ive seen it done that way before with the bolts running through from the top. I dont see how it would have any effect on the end result, either way its still just a bolt with a nut on it. When I did my strut spacers I didnt really know anything about how the strut mount and bearing was supposed to go together, but I just did what I always do which is take pictures along the way and put everything back the way it came.

It looks great Micah! Im personally a fan of a little rake so it works for me

Its a bit of a guess based on how I loaded it, but Id say 150-200lbs tongue weight right now. With that, full trunk, and 3 kids across the back seat it still sits nice and level, maybe 1.5 inch drop overall. Im very happy not to see it sagging. It was only about an hour trip, mostly highway, but it rode nice and smooth. Actually feels a little smoother loaded than when empty since the springs are pretty stiff.

Loaded up for first towing trip with the LR springs. The trailer weighs about 2500 as it sits, and maybe another 200lbs in the trunk. I measured the height at the hitch before and after and it dropped exactly an inch loaded up, which places it pretty much level front to back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just plugged the part numbers from the bulletin into google, and those patch kits with the big brackets are available from Nissan parts direct for about $40 per side.

Those patch panels are pretty cool if you could order them at a reasonable cost. I think the best repair would be to get those panels, then have them welded in instead of just bolted and glued like Nissan suggests. Using those as a starting point would give you a very strong repair, probably stronger than stock even if done right.

There are definitely way cheaper options. I agree with Micah on first just deleting everything from the main muffler back and see what you think. But, worst case scenario you can replace everything including the main cats for about $500 in parts. Heres a full cat back exhaust that replaces everything from the main cats back for $280, and if you do need to replace the primary cats those can be had for another $180 ish. Hopefully these links work. https://www.upsw.com/1999-nissan-pathfinder-se-resonator-pipe-muffler-exhaust-system-kit/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAwKvTBRC2ARIsAL0Dgk141rWCSzrRgwWKwJSS7fiIqbOhinuQVvv4MKkHnVT5l5GOHTiXHhQaAshcEALw_wcB https://www.carparts.com/details/Nissan/Pathfinder/Evan_Fischer/Catalytic_Converter/1999/SET-REPN960337.html

Ultimately its up to you for what you want. But, from the type of wheeling you describe I wouldnt say SAS is at all necessary. There are plenty of people on here who do some pretty serious wheeling with their R50 with the IFS. The R50 isnt a very large vehicle, so dont get too hung up on tire size just for the sake of it. While some rigs like Jeeps commonly run 35, 37, 40....etc.. I really feel that is complete overkill for the R50 platform. Personally I think 33 is the upper limit for what is needed. 33s look pretty big on the R50 and are still very functional. And at least if you have a newer VQ powered rig it still turns the 33s just fine with no need for regearing. Just food for thought.

Thanks for sharing, and Im glad it worked out for you. I love seeing all these R50s running around on LR springs now! Ive got about 1000 miles on mine now and I really like how they ride.

Ive had a few VQ powered Nissans and all have had the oil cooler leak at the O rings. Its an easy fix, but no way its related to any warning lights.

Ill edit the other post. I dont think its too big a deal though, those are both front springs from the same vehicle, and are a little less than .5 inch different according to Land Rover specs. I think its safe to say either 9446 or 9447 will yield between 2-2.5 inches of lift depending on the vehicle. Its pretty common for lift manufacturers to post lift variances in that range anyway to account for variances from one vehicle to the next.

Correct, I ordered the ones with part number ending in C8, the brand is Britpart. Shipping was quick, 3-4 business days.

I hope it works out for you! Let us know when theyre installed.

Looks great!

Idk if youll find pictures, but stock r50 16x7 rims are a 20 mm offset, which equals about 4.8 inch backspacing. So those new rims with 4 inch backspacing will stick out .8 inches further than stock. It should fit just fine with the stock tires, and should also clear up to 265/75/16 as well if you were interested in lifting and going with a bigger tire. Hope that helps.

Thats looking awesome! Youre breathing a whole new life into that thing!

The pathfinder grill wouldnt match up, the front edge of the hood and the headlights are too different. Too bad, otherwise Id be tempted to try a Q grill on my Pathy.

Good idea. For now, I added it to the spring dimensions thread that is pinned to the top of this forum.