gamellott

Just gonna say, I spent way too much time trying to overthink the parts catalog at Rock Auto regarding the inner/outer Disk/Drum differences and the different verbiage between manufacturers". I think the best way to figure it out and not be confused is to stick to one manufacturer. That being said, I believe the online catalog at Rock Auto is superior to others. And no, I am not getting paid to say this ? The other problem I found on other parts stores, in this instance, is that they lacked descriptions on what exactly they fit. This reminds me of the parts documentation for Subaru's in the 90's when I was working for the "Parts" store. Specifically brakes... because that's all that we ever sold for Subaru's back then ? Anyway, All of the parts are on order and I'll get to it when I make time and when it's warmer and dryer here. @hawairish@SlartibartfastI have watched a few videos of people doing this exact job. Every single one of them has them taking the nut off and on with a steel drift. Using that practice, I have no idea how anyone would ever achieve the desired torque. If it's under-torqued, and tight, I don't know that it would actually be that much of a problem especially with the locking tab preventing it from backing off. But then, the torque is probably serving some function.... What, I'm not sure in this case. It's not like it's a head bolt.

@hawairishThanks for the info. This gets me better prepared to do this job. Because this is going to be such a PITA, I might delay it for a while until I can find or fabricate a suitable tool. I was thinking some kind of hook spanner would work, but if it's recessed, that's not an option. Maybe some kind of supported pin wrench with a crow's foot on it? I did this job once on my 95' D21 with the single race, and I have clearly forgot how difficult it was. I had to take the axles to a shop to get the bearings and seals swapped out at the time because I didn't have a press.

@Slartibartfast Ya, that torque spec is crazy. I have been doing some research on how one would do this and I believe an OTC 7463 Gland Nut Wrench might just do the trick if the nut is not recessed. I have also seen a few shock spanners that might work as well... Worst case, Whack it with a hammer and punch. They couldn't simply make an octagonal nut with recesses in it. Ya need a special tool.... If there is a right one out there, what is it? After all, 30 years and 300Kmiles, and now it's leaking (Or I'm noticing it). There is a little bit of oil in the parking brake drum... When I first got this thing 8 years ago, it was leaking from almost every single seal, but it ran good. I've slowly been knocking out replacing the seals on everything, from the easiest to the hardest.... Next... the transmission and rear main, because they're leaking bad!!! The oil spots on the clean concrete are both dirty and clean oil ?

@hawairish There is a distinct difference in the catalog for the bearings and seals for my 92' between disk and drum. The Bearing, if the pictures are correct, have 2 tapered bearings smashed into a common race, which makes me think there has to be some kind of adjustment in order to get the proper load that you're not going to have on a pressed collar and shim like the ones in a single bearing/race setup. I think I've nuked it out in my head enough, I'll just take it all apart and see what I see. I haven't seen enough good documentation on this non-garden-variety animal.... Edit/update... I do have this thing called a Chilton service manual and the answer was in it. Should have been my first action rather than try to search for a Youtube video ? The manual also breaks it down between Disk and Drum. TaaaaDaaaa ?

It's been a while since I've been here, but work continues on the antique... I've replaced the parking brake cables (Got the directly from Japan) and I'm waiting on parts to fix the calipers (One of the boots on the piston was torn and not re-usable). I noticed that one of the rear wheel seals is seeping (After 300Kmiles, you would be too). I know if I had drum brakes, I would have a bearing that is pressed onto the axle just like the one on the D21 (There is a Youtube video on it). From what I can see, the disk brake bearing is radically different and it appears as though the bearing does not have a press on retaining collar. Do these bearings press on at all? Inquiring minds need to know... It's on jack stands right now.... Maybe I'll just try to find out for myself.... But if someone wants to chime in with their experience, that would be awesome!!

@Steve_RI I believe the hardpoint on the cable ends is the adapter/brake shoe end. The attachment end seems to be universal. No one seems to carry the correct "Shoe End" that I/we may need to have because we don't have the universally accepted rear drum brakes..... Rear Drum actually seems to be the norm, not the exception. The few cables that the aftermarket has shown to me, have been crap. Acceptable as a working part, but still crap.... but still doesn't work for my application. Going forward with my Amayama purchase.... Hopefully, it's the correct one.

@Slartibartfast I did find those part numbers but not that description. I did a lot of searching and I believe I have found the correct OEM PN: 36531-42G16 which superseded the 42G11 pn. I'm not finding it at the normal places and it appears as though the Rona is causing shipping problems.... Found one on ebay.... and on Amayama.... Direct shipping from Japan ? The hard part was just finding the correct part... Just wish it had pictures of the part to do a visual comparison...

I have had this problem for years and I was unable to find the right cable then, and I'm revisiting it now. The left rear cable is seized and it needs to be replaced if I ever want to use that feature ever again. The problem is that what is on the vehicle is completely different than what parts are available for this year. I figured since I wasn't the only owner, maybe someone swapped out the axle or something in the last 30 years. I have done a search through the years, and the one for a 96 appears similar on the backing plate mount, but it's not quite an exact fitment to the backing plate that I have. It's similar, but not the same. The R50 cable is clocked at 90 degrees from the mounting bolts, and mine appears to be at about a 45 degree to the mounting bolts. Does anyone know of identifying features that I might be able to use to clue me in to what it may have come out of, or is there someone in the Pacific Northwest that could/would make custom brake cables? I have put on new pads and rotors on the rear with no fitment issues and all of the parts appear to be the same between 88-95... I'm kinda stumped on where to go from here if I want to actually fix this problem.

Ya, fuel efficiency is not particularly great, but it can be decent. I did experience 21 Mpg on this thing once, but that was moderately slower driving and not fast highway speed. I don't know if the gearing is different between regions, but these things here in the US, at the time, were geared to have an optimum speed of 55 Mph. The highway speeds are significantly higher now than what they were 30 years ago and the higher RPM is going to consume fuel at a higher rate. Nominally, I get about 17 Mpg in this rig. It's not great, but considering I keep it for about one purpose, I'll take it.

When I picked up my 92 with 285Kmiles on it, it leaked from every single seal. Look for leaks, fix them if you're capable of doing it and keep an eye on the fluids. I also noticed within the past year, I was consuming coolant/antifreeze. It turned out to be a leaking head gasket into one of the cylinders. With anything as old as these are getting, you're going to be looking at long haul issues like leaks and head gaskets.... etc... Cam Belt/Timing Belt being changed on a regular basis is a necessity. Whenever that's done, it's also a good idea to replace the water pump and belt tensioner Aside from age issues, they're pretty solid. The one big problem I have observed, some parts are no longer available anywhere unless you go to a salvage yard. You may have better luck on your side of the pond though. Good Luck!!

Thule makes pedestals and cross bars that will work. They're not cheap though.

Provided they're still available, the factory replacement voltage regulator is not a solder job. In the thread, I believe, that was a work around. However, considering the age of the vehicle and parts availability, that might be the only way.. When I had the fuel gauge failure, it also took out the temp gauge as well. Once I replaced the regulator, they both worked. This was also 7 years ago... 24866-54A00 is the Part number I bought. There are 2 different kinds if my memory is correct. It appears as though you can still find them in places. You can contact the dealer to see which one you need based on your VIN https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-regulator-assembly-2486654a00

I recommend checking, cleaning all of the connectors you have off to the left (Passenger side front of valve cover). I discovered that, sometimes, these connectors can get so dirty that they actually lose their connection. Short of the charging system, all of the wires that control/run the motor go through that bundle. Also, there is a ground tab on the distributor (Should be on the front of it). Make sure that is connected as well (When I went through the heads on mine, that wire broke).

I can't see the videos, but the sensor next to your oil filter should be your oil pressure switch. The orangish looking boot is just a dust cover for it.

Until it's constant, it's kinda hard to speculate. Mine had a moment years ago where it ran like crap for a short time and then nothing... It could have been something as simple as water in the fuel I guess. I would definitely check to see what the computer thinks it has a problem with.

I've been wanting to do the same. I think most of that stuff is nearly unobtainium right now. Maybe Safelite or one of the glass companies has a source for the rubber. Past that, if you're looking for the plastic pieces of trim, you're likely going to have to go to a junk yard.

@RainGoatThat's some crazy @!*%. I did some skimming and I would tend to attribute the battery(ies) dying due to the Texas Heat and then Cold in the winter, or likely some other external factor/abuse. Batteries die at a rapid rate down in the south, especially after a cold snap below freezing where a bad cell will rear it's ugly head. Also, if you do put 2 batteries in parallel, you better get 2 of the same size, brand new, at the same time so one battery will be less likely to kill the other because it has a marginal cell. If you don't, you're inviting trouble. Battery problems don't seem to happen so much here in the PNW unless you deplete them and let them sit uncharged. ?

The original voltmeter that has a range from 6 to 18VDC is not that great of an indicator. It works, don't get me wrong. A working range of 10-15VDC would be preferable with the given range of the OE meter. With that in consideration, I prefer to have some kind of backup, especially considering these rigs are approaching 30some years old and the electronics get glitchy with age. Even though it's a cheap chinese meter, it works and seems to be accurate enough. ?

High output alternators have a higher current (amperage) rating. If that alternator is somehow achieving the higher output with a higher voltage past the initial charging of the battery when you start it up, then there is something wrong. Batteries, when fully charged, will have a float voltage around 13.6 VDC as indicated using a good digital readout (And that is good). If you've been driving for a while and you battery voltage is indicating 14+VDC or conversely 12-VDC , there is a problem. Your battery may have a bad connection, wires badly corroded, alternator not working correctly... etc... The one reason to have a high output alternator is if you have added a equipment that will be used for an extended amount of time that exceeds the current output of your alternator. If you're running a stock rig and you don't have all of that stuff that would tax your alternator, you don't need to spend the money on the HO alternator. Now, if you've added a winch and a lot of lights, then you just might need that extra current. I would suspect, if you have a winch, and you anticipate using it a lot, your best bet would be to have a second battery since you may not be in the vehicle and it will likely be idling. At Idle, most alternators aren't going to be putting out much current, regardless of being a high output alternator or not.

If your voltage remains at 14vdc once the battery is fully charged, you will eventually cook it off. Higher voltage, although desirable in some instances, is not good for your battery if it's already charged. BT.. If you're judging the 14Vdc by the analog gauge on the dash, I recommend installing a digital one. I installed one in the cigarette lighter along with 2 USB connections. Great upgrade!!

92' has a CEL? I have never seen or noticed one on mine, and I had a bad coolant temp sensor connection for a long time.... Maybe its burned out... I'll have to have a look... The only way I knew I had a problem is when I queried the computer.

If you're going for the VG30, you can piecemeal the gasket set from Rock Auto a lot cheaper (Fel-pro) and where they sell/use the paper gaskets, simply use silicone like they did OEM. But if you want to go for the $43 head gasket, go ahead ? I'm not judging ?

Today is day two since I have had it all finished and completed my commute to and from work. The engine appears to have a little more power (I really notice it when I'm climbing hills). It runs a LOT smoother. The annoying hickup just past idle is gone, and I can release the clutch without giving a quick flick of the gas to get it to go without stuttering. Oh, and the exhaust is not noticeably leaking.? Because it was sitting for so long, The dash lights independently turn on and off at will. Sometimes they're all off. The door dinger that notifies me that I either left my lights on or keys in the ignition, is silent. The list goes on and on... It appears as though I will be cleaning electrical switches and stuff when the weather warms up and/or I have a dry place to work in ? Projects for another day ?

If you're going to do the timing belt, it's frequently recommended that you replace the water pump. If you don't know the age of the pump, it would be a good idea and an ideal time to swap it out. I've done the timing belt twice on my rig and it's a long time consuming job. Also, if this is your daily driver, and have no backup, take a weekend to do it. Parts are not as readily available to do this as they may have been 10 years ago. Also, a good opportunity to replace that crank seal that is possibly leaking ?

One thing I noticed when I pulled the heads off of mine was that 3 out of the 6 cylinders had cracked lip seals on the gasket. Only one was seeping water into the cylinder, it was also pressurizing the water shortly after heating up to the point of vomiting the coolant out if you took the radiator cap off while it was hot. If you're just going to do a top end rebuild, better do it now before you actually overheat and possibly damage the heads. I was fortunate enough to have noticed the issue before it did. The heads were relatively flat, and the machinist only took out .006" Overall cost was for the whole repair was about $600 and it's now running better and smother than it ever has in the 6 years that I have owned it. I suspect it'll run even better once I get a fresh tank of gas into it. It's about a year old and likely varnished ? Tip: I didn't actually purchase the gaskets and parts required until I got the heads back, not knowing if they were good. If they were bad, I would have gone another route, possibly the VG33 route. I also piecemealed the gaskets because Rock Auto was selling the individual gaskets significantly cheaper than they were selling the whole head set, which I didn't need all of the gaskets in that set anyway. I just used Permatex where OEM was silicone anyway.