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UPDATE - Unfortunately, the data that was lost is unrecoverable by the host.  If you joined between May 26th and Jan 13th please feel free to sign up again.  In addition, all posts and messages during that time have also been lost.  At this point there is nothing that can be done, other than to move forward from here.


Thank you for your patience and understanding.

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*Updated: 02/06/2022 5:26PM PST


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Everything posted by johnjohndoe

  1. Dude... hah! Someone with my same issue! Well, maybe.. put in some 5w30 and see if it goes away. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  2. I looked at the FSM and the auto tcase main oil pump is sandwiched between the rear and center cases and is definitely driven by the main shaft which turns with the input shaft. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  3. I heard a tale about the front propeller driving the oil pump in the auto tcase. I wonder if the tcase is getting hot and throwing the light. Edit: I think that actually may not make sense because isn’t there an electric oil pump (secondary?) that kicks on when your moving slow in 4lo?
  4. No roof rack no spoiler Guess I’ll be trying my hand at painting the hood in the near future... unless I find a good one at the yard. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  5. Just go to the parts store and ask to see their small coolant hoses and find one that has the shape inside of it’s overall figure and trim away what you don’t need.
  6. Bandwidth and storage would cost NPORA a bunch. We’d all have to pay dues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  7. Kelly Blue Book Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  8. I can confirm this one works. However the module won’t send lock and unlock signals at the same time so you can’t switch between silent and horn beep lock. Also it feels pretty cheap. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2DNY2C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share This one DOES NOT work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074HBNCNN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  9. I set it with the light originally while warm and all, according to the FSM but when I went to drive it there was a big reduction in power until 3k RPM, then it would open up and had normal power beyond 3k RPM. I then just started playing around with distributor positions until I had power across the RPM range. Even now having put it back where it appears to have been originally I have a lack of power, however it is fairly smooth and doesnt really open up much at any RPM. I may play around with it some more.. I can deal with a small power reduction but I'd rather have the coronavirus than another blown head gasket!
  10. Got tired of my rattling exhaust heat shields and decided to do something about it. Found out instead that I very poorly set my ignition timing and that the sound I’ve been hearing for probably a year now was actually pinging. I set the distributor to a mark I could see on the tab where it locks down and voila, like magic my exhaust stopped rattling! Derp Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  11. I’m in north Georgia and most local small businesses are all closed. Local restaurants are struggling and the streets are nowhere near as busy as usual. My job is intact as we blow mold toner bottles which go to hospitals, however toner bottles are maybe 5% of our sales, the rest is small engine fuel tanks for Honda and Honda is on lockdown due to a SARS2 outbreak. I expect to see our operations go down to a skeleton crew soon.. I’m planning on building an AR15 with the stimulus cash. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  12. I also agree with removing the radiator. It’s surprisingly easy to do and makes the whole job better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  13. Thats exactly what happened to me. There was a very loud sound (sounded just like mud tire tread slapping the pavement only a different tone, started at a higher speed, would increase in pitch more dramatically than the tire noise, and would create an oscillating droning as the tire and bearing sound waves would interfere with each other) coming from the driver outer wheel bearing and I had no idea because of those stupid (but useful in mud) tires. It was glaringly obvious when I got the wheel bearing exposed that it was completely toast. The grease looked like my daughters homemade glitter lip gloss, the rollers had gashes all over them, and there was a blue/purple streak around the outer race where it was getting super hot.
  14. Definitely looks like less rake with the bumper on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  15. Wow I’m searching for banged up VQ’s effective immediately. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  16. They all do that if you’re not fast enough going from hi to lo and vice versa. The output shaft on the transmission spins even in neutral if there’s no resistance (ie the transfer case disconnects the rest of the drive train behind the transmission completely when you go from hi/lo to lo/hi). You have to be quick with the movement. Why doesn’t it say that in the manual...? I bet someone smarter could explain exactly why the output shaft spins in neutral. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  17. I’ve got the puny stock atl and when the defrost is on I can feel the difference between low and full blower settings. Haha The windshield wipers move quite slow as well until I’m over 1500-1700rpm. I can’t use the 100watt fog lights I got at all or it’s even worse. Everything is fine cruising at 70mph (2600rpm) but sitting or even riding trails is a concern and I will be looking for a Quest alt next trip to the JY. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  18. Wow and I thought I was hardcore haha Are you going to bring it back to life?
  19. Nice! The electric fan upgrade was a major improvement as far as trust goes but I feel like I actually have less power than with the thermal clutch. I should clarify, I have less power when the AC is on due to the extra draw on the alternator and possibly a little bit more power when everything is off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  20. Hmmmm.. well the cam springing forward under the tension of the valve springs should not be strong enough to bend anything. Id honestly be surprised if you were able to bend a valve unless you were turning the cam sprocket with a long ratchet. It sounds more like the belt is a tooth or two off. Ive heard here about people being off a tooth and having similar problems but the knocking has me thinking its off more than one tooth. Id pop that timing cover off real quick and count the teeth on the belt between each sprocket dimple mark. The passenger cam sprocket dimple mark is around 11 o'clock and the driver cam sprocket dimple mark is around 1 o'clock, while the crank sprocket dimple mark is around 5 o'clock. Pop the belt on and keep it taut in the middle between the two cam sprockets and also keep it taut between the driver cam and the crank. The belt can be as loose as needed between the crank and passenger cam but it helps to have some tension in that area or the belt tries to jump off the passenger cam while you are trying to get the tooth count right. So with the belt on and the cam and crank sprocket dimple marks pretty close to the 11, 1, and 5 o'clock positions count the teeth (peaks) on the belt between the passenger cam sprocket dimple mark and the driver cam sprocket dimple mark. There should be 40 teeth (peaks). If you've got more (or less) than 40 teeth then move the driver cam just a little bit until you count 40 teeth between the two dimples. Then count the teeth between the driver cam sprocket dimple and the crank sprocket dimple. You should have 43 teeth. If you have more (or less) than 43 teeth then CAREFULLY and gently turn the crank the tiny amount you need to achieve 43 teeth. Once you have your tooth count 100% confirmed then set the tension and rotate the engine several times by hand before buttoning everything back up. I have tried using alignment marks on timing belts for my VG33 and have never been able to make everything line up perfectly. Its always a tooth or half a tooth off when comparing the marks on the sprockets to the marks on the rear timing cover. I found the tooth counting method and it has worked flawlessly 3 times on my QX4 (one 100k mile service, one engine swap, and one head gasket job). It has also worked on my wife's GX470 thats waaaaay scarier and legitimately harder to work on than my QX4. The stupid alignment marks and LH cam(which is actually right hand from where you work) RH cam(which is actually left hand from where you’re working) labeling is too confusing for me to confidently work around/with. I about lost my marbles trying to do my wife's timing belt and the #&$@ sprockets are labeled backwards. Like why couldn't they call them D(river)C(am) and P(assenger)C(am)??? /endrant

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