onespiritbrain

What did you use to lubricate the adjuster?

Wow I searched the Momo steering wheel on google and didn’t like too much what I saw but I definitely like what you have in the photo!

Thats the best picture ive seen on here. Very nice

No it should only engage the adjuster when the pad has worn a bit and you hit the brakes while in reverse. Unless Nissan went the parking brake route which only engages the adjuster when you pull the ebrake. I dont know which method we have..

We can easily share diagrams too by exporting as a link: https://tinyurl.com/y2m8lhfg hmm well its not working... (edit: working now. the tinyurl function inside the circuit builder seems to be malfunctioning but works it works fine if you go to tinyurl yourself to create the link.) try this one: https://www.falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html?cct=$+17+0.000005+3.046768661252054+40+5+43 178+80+416+80+368+0+1+0.2+-0.5999999999998891+0.05+1000000+0.02+20 178+224+416+224+368+0+1+0.2+-0.599917738068493+0.05+1000000+0.02+20 w+48+416+48+544+0 g+48+544+48+560+0 R+-64+416+-96+416+0+0+40+12+0+0+0.5 w+48+544+80+544+0 w+80+464+80+416+0 w+64+368+64+192+0 s+-64+416+0+416+0+0+false s+320+496+288+496+0+0+false w+176+544+80+544+0 s+272+208+304+208+0+1+false s+272+176+304+176+0+0+false w+224+192+256+192+0 w+256+192+256+176+0 w+256+176+272+176+0 w+256+192+256+208+0 w+256+208+272+208+0 x+257+156+299+159+4+12+90degC x+258+226+300+229+4+12+99degC x+-42+396+-7+399+4+12+key\son w+176+544+224+544+0 w+192+416+224+416+0 w+352+480+320+480+0 w+320+480+320+496+0 w+224+544+224+416+0 w+176+496+176+416+0 x+164+368+197+371+4+12+AC\son x+161+382+199+385+4+12+FAN\sHI x+28+379+50+382+4+12+only x+23+364+55+367+4+12+ign\son w+352+480+352+592+0 w+352+592+0+592+0 w+0+592+0+416+0 178+448+208+448+272+0+1+0.2+0.5984207493736498+0.05+1000000+0.02+20 178+448+176+448+96+0+1+0.2+0.000011999759442010045+0.05+1000000+0.02+20 w+304+208+336+208+0 w+336+208+400+208+0 w+304+176+400+176+0 R+688+192+720+192+0+0+40+12+0+0+0.5 x+537+366+597+369+4+12+FAN\sON\sHI x+632+370+696+373+4+12+FAN\sON\sLO g+688+224+720+224+0 w+432+272+432+304+0 w+432+304+544+304+0 w+432+80+640+80+0 w+640+80+640+304+0 w+592+304+592+224+0 w+592+224+688+224+0 w+688+304+688+224+0 w+432+80+432+96+0 w+448+192+448+176+0 w+448+192+448+208+0 w+448+192+416+192+0 w+416+192+416+176+0 w+416+192+416+208+0 w+448+192+688+192+0 181+592+304+544+304+0+353.1969023615489+100+120+0.4+0.4 181+688+304+640+304+0+304.3663163529265+100+120+0.4+0.4 w+0+416+32+416+0 x+262+528+335+531+4+12+\p12v\sfrom\sAC x+271+541+331+544+4+12+clutch\srelay w+240+368+240+336+0 w+240+336+144+336+0 w+144+336+144+464+0 w+80+464+144+464+0 w+64+192+224+192+0 w+336+272+208+272+0 w+208+272+208+368+0 w+288+496+176+496+0 w+336+272+336+208+0 b+160+352+255+447+0 b+17+350+112+445+0 b+318+253+240+106+0 x+252+122+304+125+4+12+dual\stemp x+261+133+294+136+4+12+switch b+376+335+485+48+0 x+393+64+470+67+4+12+volvo\sfan\srelay

I used to put T6 15w40 in my Frontier to combat smoking and it worked wonders. I have played around with different brands some and viscosity a bit also, but I had some extremely bad valvetrain noise using Castrol 10w30 so now im scared to mess around haha but I may give the Supertech "Full Synthetic" 10w30 a try.

I edited in my response about degradation. And yes it would totally make more sense to go ahead with the oil change but changing the oil monthly is too frequent. I dont like 6 weeks either, its also too frequent but its better than 4 weeks. I am thinking about using a 10w30 instead of 5w30, if successful then I will save myself the additional cost of the "Oil Stabilizer" over a quart of oil, since I have to add one anyway. That's $2 every 6 weeks which isnt much but I am more concerned about increased wear from diluting anti-wear additives by adding an "OIl Stabilizer".

You're spot on. When the oil is about a quart low the lifter noise begins to appear. Originally I was just adding an additional quart of oil but the lifter noise was quieted for a day or so before returning and then continuing to get louder as I approached the end of my OCI. So I tried the "Oil Stabilizer" in place of the additional quart and the lifter noise was well controlled for a much longer period, coincidentally to the end of my desired OCI. by 5000 miles the oil is black. this oil stabilizer doesnt help with that at all. the oil begins to turn quite dark at the 3000 mile mark and continues to become darker until the 5000 mile mark where it is hard to discern whether its becoming any darker.

No. This is how my OCI goes: 0 Week: 4 Quarts Supertech "Full Synthetic" Oil is added at oil change 3-4 Week (or when lifter noise appears): 1 Quart Supertech "Oil Stabilizer" is added (this is usually at 3000 miles) 5-6 Week (or when lifter noise returns): Oil is changed using 4 Quarts Supertech "Full Synthetic" Oil (this is usually at 5000 miles) I do wonder what sort of reduced wear protection I experience after the "Oil Stabilizer" is added until the next oil change...

I just put a bottle in mine also and the lifter clacking ceased immediately. I usually see a solid 2 weeks before the clacking returns and I have been changing the oil at that point which happens to be around the 5000 mile mark.

https://www.falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html Fantastic free software. With those electrical schematics from the FSM you can build what’s already there and try stuff to manipulate the circuits how you like and plus you don’t destroy stuff clinching your butt cheeks and hitting GO.

Hmmmmm.. I know it’s crazy, but you might want to retorque that wheel. I can’t think of a reason, besides axial slop, that would cause an issue turning in one direction and not the other. If it’s not a problem with the wheel you might take a look see at the wheel bearing. And before you do anything, jack that corner up and see if there’s any slop with that wheel. Maybe even give the tire a knee at the 12, 9, and 3 o’clock positions to see if you get any movement at the wheel.

So what condition does the seat belt have to be in for them to agree to fix it?

The drum sticks when turning left while hitting brakes or without hitting brakes??

Wow thanks man! You’re so close by I’ll probably just make a trip up and say hello in person! We will have to figure out when a good time for us both will be. I’m stuck working weekends for a while until this new machine is installed but it might be nice to wait a little while until the leaves start to turn colors! Thanks again man :]

Word

Metal spacer??

I put that fluid in my transmission (after I had already slit its throat) and it shifted noticeably quicker, followed soon thereafter by not shifting at all but that’s irrelevant. I wonder if I might use that stuff during the next interval..

If you don’t mind, please post pics of the part where it mates up to the steering column. If there are splines, what is the count? And do you know the diameter of the splined portion? Thanks man

Oh wow I wonder if all the G steering wheels will mount

My steering wheel has lost its coating and is now sticky and grimy feeling when the humidity is high. I am holding off on trying to modify the idle air control solenoid and am making the steering wheel my next project. I am trying to inquire of anyone who has knowledge about the R50 steering wheel. I would love to find a mint steering wheel from the junk yard but I’ve never seen one (that I’ve noticed— I wasn’t looking so it would’ve had to really jump out at me). Are there a range of Nissan steering wheels that the R50 will accept? Has anyone had any success trying to restore their steering wheel? New acrylic paint and clear coat??

I definitely did not install them correctly haha, I stripped the ever living frig out of the shaft threads on the first installation, then when I installed new springs it stripped completely and I made a stupid attempt to clean the threads with a die which apparently gave up the ghost right away, probably on the first drive but it all stayed together until I creamed a speed bump which dislodged the strut shaft.

Honestly it’s my fault it happened. I cross threaded it when I first installed it and then when I put new springs on it had all it could take and must have let go some time afterward. It’d been making some strange noises for a while and the molded rubber piece where the threaded portion goes into was chewed up, so I must have been riding with it like that. Thankfully I didn’t hit a big bump at highway speeds because it would’ve been nasty!

Honestly as long as you’re hauling that thing to the trail then you have a cool toy that’ll probably hold its own out there. When do you plan on putting it through its paces?

If you bypass the radiator you must have something else in place for sure. If you’re replacing the radiator then you’ll have the trans lines off and it would indeed be a good time to install an aftermarket cooler in place of using the one integrated into the radiator.