onespiritbrain

It’s gonna suck. How bad is it leaking?

FSM says it’s built into the ECM. You’re probably gonna have to either replace the ECM or open it up and desolder the component. If you can find a part number on it then you can search for it on amazon or alibaba.

Front diff oil was much darker. I think the rear oil looked darker because it had clutch material in it.

These are all the ring gear This is the only good shot I could get of the pinion gear The oil smells like burnt clutch and is pretty dark but doesn’t not contain any metal shavings. Front is coming next.

Pls delete

It should only take one turn in the unlock direction. The electrical portion of the lock cylinder is no good if it takes multiple cycles. Mine is on the way to being no good. Right now I can unlock the driver door without disabling the security alarm which causes the alarm to go off as soon as I open the door. Usually it only takes one turn in the unlock direction to get the alarm to turn off but here and there it takes multiple cycles.

No whining at all on the way home.... not complaining or anything. Rumbling was still present. The rumbling is not intense enough to rattle anything inside the vehicle but it does shake my side mirrors enough to where it’s hard to make out details, like what kind of car is about to pass my slow butt.

Actually I just wiped what looked like shavings from the magnet and it was metal paste formed into spikes. So no visible shavings thus far. I have to get home and I’ll dig in tomorrow.

I assume that amount is abnormal? I changed the drain plug out for one I have at work but there’s no magnet. I suspect there’s more metal in there than what can held on that little magnet anyway but I am just picturing newly freed shavings making their way into the mesh.. Is it of any benefit to change the fluid at this point?

So a few days ago I went off-roading for the first time in a while. I didnt use 4WD and did have some free wheeling at the rear on the way off the trail. First I noticed a significant whine, about as high pitched as a deep males voice will go, at 50-60mph under heavy acceleration load (up a hill). Now the same whine is present when taking off from stop and increases in loudness until about 25mph and begins to taper off until 40mph where I can barely hear it. It still reappears sharply at 50mph going up hills. I would like to pinpoint the offending area. I hope its the transfer case since I have one sitting in my storage building but I fear its actually the rear diff. I do also have a slight rumble that is load dependent (more pronounced with greater load) that begins at 40mph and peaks at 50mph before tapering off to nothing by 65mph. I do not notice a change in the whine while taking curves. 70+mph speeds are silent and completely smooth. I plan to check fluids in both the rear end and transfer case tonight.

Wow!

Far more often than not, shops around here just blast them on with the rattle gun with no concern of under/over torquing. Every time I’ve had new tires put on at the shop I use(wife’s uncle), I’ve had to fix the lug nuts. They get the tire pressure perfect but the lug nuts, not so much.

It looks like those little spacers are important... the new strut mounts I put in last time are now wallowed out. I locked the nut up top down as tight as was possible holding the shaft with channel locks but the rubber on the inside now spins around with the shaft. I cant tell if this is going to allow the whole thing to become dislodged again. Dang it..

Multiple issues going on at the same time can be so strange. How in the world does a covered radiator and a plug wire problem just so happen to present at the same time...? I've had similar stuff happen like that, multiple times. It can be quite the coincidence, of course I guess on an aging vehicle with thousands of potential problems lying in wait, it can be expected that multiple problems present at the same time. However I do not see the same pattern with industrial machines.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2001,pathfinder,3.5l+v6,1432945,fuel+&+air,manifold+pressure+(map)+sensor,11207

It has to miss pretty good to throw a 300. I remember you had misfire codes whenever you were dealing with your distributor, is the misfiring as bad as it was with the dizzy?

If i was you id look into the nissan quest alternator upgrade

Hmmm... were there any transmission related problems? Did you notice any hard shifts or reluctance to downshift or shift to the next gear? How does the fluid look now? Does it smell different than new fluid? Jerking can be a symptom of transmission issues but usually not at idle. Also, an overheating engine can suffer various types of misfiring (pre/post) and if your knock sensor is unplugged (or relocated too far away from the block like mine) then the ECU cant pull time to correct it. It sounds like you were overheating to me. I'd change the engine oil and check the trans oil. Just saw that it was the coolant temp sensor that was unplugged. So you're getting a positive for knock but not misfire.. that sounds like the missing you feel is actually light knocking.

I think you may want to add a gusset to your engine mount brackets. I suspect over time that they will deform, especially if one of the rubber mounts fails, the non-dampened hammering and weight of the engine might be too much.

I am having trouble with the Doorman bushings in the same way. I am very tired of the 1 inch slack in my steering wheel caused by the racks ability to shift back and forth.. My rack does leak like a sieve.. I’m thinking about buying a couple cans of brass shims to make a couple bushings with that’ll allow for some serious clamping force. I just wonder how long brass would hold up.

Tapatalk is definitely the easiest method I know of. It’s in the AppStore

Someone take a profile picture of the seal and I’ll try to find it in bulk

Sounds awesome

If there isn’t any options then you might remove a section and search for a matching bulk weather strip material on McMasterCarr. You’d probably attach the ends with super glue, black caulk, or you could search for a glue that’s made for whatever the material of the weather strip is.