onespiritbrain

Liberty Bell

cavalry scout

Steel pin

I’m not sure if the 03 is the same as a 98 but the cabin temp sensor on my 98 is to the right of the steering wheel and to the left of the radio, right about where my keys hang from the ignition, but on the dash. I do also have a sunlight sensor on the top of the dash, under the windshield.

Debt collection

It was really difficult to turn the adjustment screw so I’m not sure exactly how many turns but it was at least 4 full rotations.

As usual Slart nasty was right on the money! Thanks dude The IACV was adjusted for a dirty condition throttle body... I bet I will have to clean the throttle body more often now. Which I prefer.

I found it and I’m gonna adjust after the FIC adjustment process. Currently my engine is getting up to temperature. It started off at 1100-1200RPM when I first started the engine but now as it’s heating up the RPM are speeding up. At 170degF it’s at 1500RPM...

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Where/what is this screw??? And where is the increased air coming from...?

I just looked at the FIC adjustment in the FSM and mine is way out. I didn’t adjust the FIC, I adjusted the one at the top that has the DO NOT ADJUST disclaimers. What will adjusting that one hurt?

1999 Infiniti QX4 VG33 I cleaned my throttle body because the baffle was sticking harder and harder over the last couple months. After cleaning off the 1/32” of gunk my idle went from 750-850RPM to 1200-1300RPM. With the idle high like is, when I put it in D the vehicle wants to move forward. I have to press the brakes harder to keep from moving forward. Then when slowing down from highway speeds the trans downshifts harder than normal around 45mph. I believe it’s actually the lockup clutch disengaging while still receiving torque from the engine. I can’t figure out how to adjust the IACV under the intake and so I decided to adjust the fast idle which worked well to bring the idle RPM back to the 750-850 range. I marked it so I know where to put it back at if need be. The problem is that when I started the engine earlier the O/D light began flashing for about 10-15 seconds. I am worried that I will somehow damage the trans and that I’ll have to put yet another one in... After adjusting the fast idle the rough downshift/lockup is gone completely, and is actually smoother than ever. Things I have considered: 1. There is a significant vacuum leak that began when I cleaned the throttle body which is the root cause of the high idle. 2. I didn’t allow enough time to let the ECU readjust for the newly cleaned throttle body. 3. I removed enough metal during cleaning (maroon scotchbrite) that the baffle is permanently passing more air and the factory fast idle setting is no longer useful. I’m shooting in the dark with this and need someone to shine a light.

Congratulations!

fry guy

trophy fish

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Palmer Cigarettes

Very cool I don’t know of any brick and mortar stores like that around my neck of the woods but I will source some high quality polycarbonate like you suggested. Thanks!

OK I’m sold. Is there a thread detailing the conversion? If not could you share where you found the amber lens that works well for you?

Very very interesting. So did you actually open the lightbar up and put amber LEDs in place of the cool white LEDs or are you using a film to change the color temperature?

Arnold Palmer

So the amber color temp is proving more useful?

Eggs Benedict

Soccer sucks

Very cool