onespiritbrain

My radiator looked ok at the neck but inside it was clogged. I’d replace it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I had mine all the way apart when I did my head gaskets. Ohh wait, I had to use my heads and cams from my old engine so my issue can’t be heads or cams, and you swapped the lifter guides and lifters, so that doesn’t leave much else besides the oil pump / oil flow issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The oil filter adding to the problem is something I experience. The best I have found is Fram Silver/Gold. Even K&N makes mine start clacking, even with 5w30. The ONLY combo that works for me is synthetic 5w30 and Fram Silver/Gold. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I might be jumping the gun on making assumptions on our issues being the same. I’m just hypersensitive to valve train noise and I’ve never heard anyone say the noise increases with higher viscosity except you. Mine is a VG33 so our heads are very similar but I think the oil pumps are different and it’d be a stretch to say two different oil pumps produce such a strange phenomenon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

In any case I will be very interested to know if your issue goes away with 5w30. I literally have your exact problem. Mine will clack so loud that I’m afraid to drive it and I’m almost certain I can hear some detonation occurring in unison with the clacking. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I suspect either clogged oil pathways leading to the heads or some other kind blockage issue, or some sort of oil pump problem. Higher viscosity equals higher resistance to flow or something.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

If I put even 10w30 in mine is clacks itself half to death. But 5w30 and it purrs.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Dude... hah! Someone with my same issue! Well, maybe.. put in some 5w30 and see if it goes away. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I looked at the FSM and the auto tcase main oil pump is sandwiched between the rear and center cases and is definitely driven by the main shaft which turns with the input shaft. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I heard a tale about the front propeller driving the oil pump in the auto tcase. I wonder if the tcase is getting hot and throwing the light. Edit: I think that actually may not make sense because isn’t there an electric oil pump (secondary?) that kicks on when your moving slow in 4lo?

No roof rack no spoiler Guess I’ll be trying my hand at painting the hood in the near future... unless I find a good one at the yard. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Just go to the parts store and ask to see their small coolant hoses and find one that has the shape inside of it’s overall figure and trim away what you don’t need.

Bandwidth and storage would cost NPORA a bunch. We’d all have to pay dues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Kelly Blue Book Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I set it with the light originally while warm and all, according to the FSM but when I went to drive it there was a big reduction in power until 3k RPM, then it would open up and had normal power beyond 3k RPM. I then just started playing around with distributor positions until I had power across the RPM range. Even now having put it back where it appears to have been originally I have a lack of power, however it is fairly smooth and doesnt really open up much at any RPM. I may play around with it some more.. I can deal with a small power reduction but I'd rather have the coronavirus than another blown head gasket!

Got tired of my rattling exhaust heat shields and decided to do something about it. Found out instead that I very poorly set my ignition timing and that the sound I’ve been hearing for probably a year now was actually pinging. I set the distributor to a mark I could see on the tab where it locks down and voila, like magic my exhaust stopped rattling! Derp Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I also agree with removing the radiator. It’s surprisingly easy to do and makes the whole job better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hahaha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thats exactly what happened to me. There was a very loud sound (sounded just like mud tire tread slapping the pavement only a different tone, started at a higher speed, would increase in pitch more dramatically than the tire noise, and would create an oscillating droning as the tire and bearing sound waves would interfere with each other) coming from the driver outer wheel bearing and I had no idea because of those stupid (but useful in mud) tires. It was glaringly obvious when I got the wheel bearing exposed that it was completely toast. The grease looked like my daughters homemade glitter lip gloss, the rollers had gashes all over them, and there was a blue/purple streak around the outer race where it was getting super hot.

Definitely looks like less rake with the bumper on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Delete

Wow I’m searching for banged up VQ’s effective immediately. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Burrrmp Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

They all do that if you’re not fast enough going from hi to lo and vice versa. The output shaft on the transmission spins even in neutral if there’s no resistance (ie the transfer case disconnects the rest of the drive train behind the transmission completely when you go from hi/lo to lo/hi). You have to be quick with the movement. Why doesn’t it say that in the manual...? I bet someone smarter could explain exactly why the output shaft spins in neutral. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I’ve got the puny stock atl and when the defrost is on I can feel the difference between low and full blower settings. Haha The windshield wipers move quite slow as well until I’m over 1500-1700rpm. I can’t use the 100watt fog lights I got at all or it’s even worse. Everything is fine cruising at 70mph (2600rpm) but sitting or even riding trails is a concern and I will be looking for a Quest alt next trip to the JY. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro