onespiritbrain

Yeah, it’s true here also.. an immaculate 90’s model LC is $12-25K. You can find them that have been poorly taken care of for muuuuch less. I see them for $5000 often here in Georgia advertised as needing TLC and having 300K+ miles. I bet you can get a fair engine with the transmission attached for under $10K. I guess any way you look at it, it’s going to be a large investment of time and money.. It’s just a dream of mine and I admire those who are walking in that dream.

My wife’s GX470 is a beast in fine clothes. My poor little 3.3 is far outdone by her V8, however I did tow 4700lbs the other day, buuuuuut it dealt the final blow to my suspension. Anyway I can vouch for the V8 4Runner/GX470, they’re awesome. But, if you’re going to buy a new rig and you’re looking at all option, you may consider a 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser. It’s the last year they put solid front axels in them and they last a long time, granted you should look for one that’s already had it’s mid life head gasket job done. Or better yet look for one with a blown head gasket and slap some MLS gaskets on there. Good luck man

There is a self diagnosis function you should probably do. Do you have a FSM for your model?

It wouldn’t be so bad if you didn’t have to rub your hands and arms all over that fiberglass on the firewall. It’s just the worst. I mean you’re stretched out with something poking you at all times while reaching into a very small space which you can barely see into and if you drop anything you have to slink down and crawl around under the truck in all the leaking fluids until you find it before you climb back to your awkward hurtful position to continue embedding fiberglass into your skin. I will say that it wouldn’t be quite as bad if you use the constant tension clamps that are on there originally... perhaps I shouldn’t have put worn gear clamps on there.

Double post.

“Rebuilt” passenger caliper which was really just replacing all the soft parts.. it’s going to be nice not having to add brake fluid every 12 hours!

The coolant hoses in the back are the hard part. Even at the factory where the vehicle was put together that had to be the worst job... there’s no way around it. I hate putting the upper intake on, hate. I feel as strongly about putting NEW hoses and NEW clamps on back there as I do about a new rear main seal and oil pan sealant while the engine is out... IMO, two transmission replacements are equal to one upper intake job.

One of my favorite waterfalls is Denton Branch Falls and it’s at the end of Charlie’s Creek Road OR at the end of Tallulah River Road depending on which direction you come from. Either way you get a secluded waterfall and some decent wheeling! Our parent company is in Japan and they’ve installed an automated blow molding machine over there. Now they’re getting ready to ship the whole thing here and I have to go put my eyes on it while it’s running.

Word.

By far and away my favorite time to look for waterfalls! No crowds, stronger falls, and the look of fog in the woods all do it for me! As soon as I get my suspension taken care of we have to get our families together and go looking for waterfalls(it’s literally one of our favorite things to do)! I’ll be in Japan until mid March but as soon as I get back I plan to work on my suspension. Also your pathfinder looks awesome

I suspect a driveshaft issue rather than a problem with the transmission. Since they had the drive shafts out maybe there was a piece of crud on one of the mating surfaces when they put them back. Or maybe they used an impact and one of the mating surfaces is wonky.

Does the vibration fade in and out? Or does it start as the torque converter locks, so it might start suddenly and then fade out as you speed up? Also, is it only when your are pressing the gas and then it goes away when you let up? Or does it go away as soon as you press the gas and starts again when you let off the gas? Does it vibrate the same around curves? Also, what sort of vibration is it? Like vibration from a subwoofer or the bouncing of your knee when your bored/nervous?

I’m skeptical.

You’d need a huge capacitor if you’re using it to supplement current that your battery can’t handle. Really you’d need a bank of super capacitors. Start caps in a DC motor circuit can help start a motor if the power supply is sized for the run current and the start current draw time is very short but your fans are supplied by the same battery that your starter is supplied by and your starter draws far more than your fans, by a lot. I bet you have a poor ground somewhere. Go over every single +\- connection they’d have messed with during the repairs, or all of them in the engine bay altogether, and clean them.

For me when I’ve tried to have small sealed enclosures in the past, it only lasts a couple months before I fill up the back with a large vented enclosure. I’m sure it’s mostly a “nothing is ever enough” character flaw on my part but I’d use the absolute largest enclosure you can live with from the beginning and avoid soon to come dissatisfaction with the output from a low profile system. This is what I had and while space was somewhat of an issue when I needed to haul my toolboxes or the kids Christmas presents, the remaining 95% of the time was fine. I will say that having a large woofer gives you the ability to adjust each song to the correct low end output while also reserving the ability to jam out when you like. For instance Third Eye Blind - Tattoo of the Sun’s low end just isn’t going to pop unless you have a large system with gobs of output, and there are many other songs like it where achieving the crisp punches on a lower output system means you are going to have to overdrive the woofer and the sound quality is going to suffer. On the other hand, and again this is surely a character flaw on my part, with a high output system the temptation to jam out and be “that guy” riding around with thunderous rumblings emitting from your vehicle happens more often then not.. That’s my 2cents :]

Oh yeah, I didn’t think about the distributor. That could definitely be it. The 3.3 quest is a good place to find distributors at the junk yard as well as MAF sensors. I don’t think as many folks know about the quest and my local pullapart doesn’t list the quest for interchangeable parts.

I’ve just now seen this thread. It does sound like it’s a tooth off. If I’m remembering correctly, and Mrelcocko will have to confirm, when it’s a tooth off it does exactly what it’s doing with you. The timing belt on this engine in a quest has got to suck.. Only other thing I can think of is the MAF sensor or a super bad vacuum leak. I don’t know how to do the shoutout thing to get Mrelcocko’s attention. He had a tooth off and might be able to help nail down whether or not that actually what it is. I’d hate to dig back under those timing covers for no reason.

That pic I posted was accompanied by loosing about a gallon of coolant per 100-150 miles, bubbling coolant reservoir, and swollen coolant hoses. Also you can’t see it well in the picture but that goop has a noticeable green tint to it.

https://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-036-1959-Valve-Gasket/dp/B00832OJC2#sims-fbt-shipping-details_1549113707719 Both of those sets have a 5 star review that says everything fits.

This is purely my imagination: Maybe the watery gas cleaned some deposits from the piston surface which then stuck to your exhaust valves causing poor sealing and slight misfiring under low load. Back to reality: If you’ve got grinding noises from cold starts then you might consider taking off all the belts then cold starting it and see if the sounds are still there or not. I’ve got some grinding noises and a whirling noise that have persisted with an entirely different engine, however I do have the same tensioners(including timing), idlers, water pump, and power steering pump. I also have extremely grungy sounding cold starts in general until oil makes it to the valve stems and lifters. I know first hand how easy it can be to experience a similar issue and be so sure it’s a previous issue coming back to haunt me. Don’t worry about the timing, if it’s been right for 6 months then it’s still right now. Edit: Also, x2 on the spark plugs

Have you had the driveshaft out? If so, how were the bearings?

Edit: you must be on an incline and a very steep incline reduces eruption. Yeah, if my cooling system isn’t already low then it starts going everywhere when I start the engine and then again when the thermostat opens up. I just let it go all over the place and it’ll eventually calm down. If you park on as steep of an incline as you possibly can then it’ll reduce the eruption a bunch. I didn’t see any bubbles until mine was all the way warmed up and the thermostat had opened. I did have bubbling in the coolant reservoir AFTER I shut off the engine though. I did not have: -Boiling over -Uncontrollable overheating(replace missing coolant and all returned to normal) -White smoke at the tailpipe -Oil in coolant -Noticeable coolant in oil -Misfires -Noticeably cleaner than the others spark plug -External coolant leaks from head/block mating areas -Sweet smell in exhaust I did have: -Many gallons of unexplainable disappearing coolant -Bubbling coolant reservoir(only after shutting engine off— then eventually while engine was running also) -Almost completely clogged radiator -White film on spring of radiator cap -Clean #6 piston surface -Greenish yellow goop on oil cap -Swollen radiator hoses

I know the feeling... I sure do hope it’s not a BHG. Let your engine warm up all the way from cold with the radiator cap off and then have someone rev the engine to 2500 and hold it there while you look for a small stream of bubbles coming up in the radiator filler neck. I was adding a gallon of coolant every tank of gas before I finally decided it was a BHG. I also put 200psi air pressure into each cylinder(during each cylinders compression stroke) and there were no bubbles in the radiator at all. Check out this thread: Blown/Seeping Head Gasket? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?/topic/43908-Blown-Seeping-Head-Gasket%3F&share_type=t

How severe is the vibration? Barely noticeable or can you put your mechanic in the passenger seat and he’d notice immediately?

What brand of CVs did you use?