onespiritbrain

I went with the last design and it’s working. I am very happy with the improved air conditioner performance. I do have to say that with the AC on full blast and the fan on high speed, it seems like I actually have less power than before. It’s not much so it might just be me but I can’t discern any extra power whatsoever. I wonder if the increased power draw on the alternator is causing a noticeable increase in mechanical resistance.

Oh yeah I did but I edited the first post at the bottom. It was from a 1999 Isuzu Rodeo

wow haha @colinnwn you were right! here is the final draft http://tinyurl.com/y2b9sgh6

here is the circuit and it looks like it does indeed work!!! http://tinyurl.com/y46lm8gc I want to figure out a way where the dual temp switch cannot be overridden IF the coolant is at 99degC or above. I dont see a way to eliminate the ground break relay. How can I eliminate it? I am switching the ground because its milliamps instead of fla for the fan. Im probably just going to tell the fan to kick on high with the AC clutch instead of trying to get crazy with the recirc thing.. its going to be a pain in the arse to run wires to that plug anyway and im not going to want to have to hit the recirc button all the time when the ac isnt cold enough..

This is with the rest of the wires shown By feeding the coil ground on relay #3 from NO on relay #2 it will eliminate the issue of having the recirc button on with no AC running

Reduced area much be outweighed by increasing flow. During hot and humid summer days in Georgia my cooling system can’t keep up driving off-road, on long steep grades, in long drive thru lines, extended periods in parking lots, etc. Also when stopping at red lights, or any of the above mentioned situations, the AC starts blowing warmer air. The electric fan pulls so much more air that the AC condenser even has air flow. I had this exact same problem with my 2001 Frontier and I replaced the radiator and fan clutch on it. I’ve replaced my thermal fan clutch and radiator on my QX4 but as before the issue, while not as bad, is still there. It’s like the factory cooling system is just barely enough to do its job and any sort of added heat load (including the AC) or reduced capacity (radiator scaling?) results in a situation where the engine temp rises slowly but indefinitely..

I am trying to figure out how to set up relays for controlling an electric radiator fan. I have it hooked up now and it works very well but it will run after the engine is shut off. I have spent literally hours trying to figure out how to set these relays up... Can someone who understands this stuff please look over what I have so far and tell me if its going to work correctly? The only issues I can see for myself are: 1. Turning the AC on will kick the fan out of high speed unless I manually activate the recirc switch (which is always off by default..) 2. If I turn recirc on without the AC on and the fan is running on low then both low and high motor leads will be energized. I don’t know what will happen to the motor if this occurs. As I was typing the third issue I noticed what I thought may be an issue could actually solve the first issue IF the dual temp switch connects both grounds inside itself when its high temp setting is reached. Then even if I have the AC on but recirc off and it reaches its high temp setting it will pass the ground through itself and activate the fans high speed. If the dual temp switch doesnt connect both grounds, is there any way I can have the fan run on high speed if the high temp set point is met? Here is a drawing from the tech library at therangerstation.com of the Volvo relay: Here are some pics from the install:

I have a junk yard compressor blowing super cold air in my QX4 that I paid $40 for.. and it’s guaranteed to be in working condition or you can come back and pull another one until you get a good one. Where exactly are you?

Yeah window tint is very much like the optics on a pair of sunglasses. You can get stuff that looks great and performs decently, like a pair of Walmart sunglasses or you can get a pair that look almost identical but they have polarized lenses with multilayer coatings. Likewise window tint can have all sorts of different properties like high visible light transmission with very low infrared transmission(expensive— “ceramic”), or you can have very low visible light transmission with high infrared(cheap— “limo tint” from Wally World).

Heat rejection from *good quality* window tint has a huge effect on AC cooling. Air flow over the condenser at low speeds is another big factor. Our AC setup has the ability to do some serious cooling. I've measured 34degF at full blast with recirculation on. If its not fighting an onslaught from the sun then I bet it'd get chilly in there quickly. I do notice vent temps rise the instant I start slowing down.. hopefully I can report better performance after my electric radiator fan install. I'd be interested to hear what someone with high quality tint experiences.

I installed camber bolts on mine to correct negative camber because of the way it looked and it worked very well. It also raised the front of my vehicle up about an inch.. I can’t tell you if slight camber causes your tires to wear on the edge. I imagine they would wear a little more but not a lot. I can tell you that tie rods, control arm bushings, and wheel bearings will eat tires alive. Especially mud terrains.

dark star

Night night

Every time I’ve burped the cooling system I still have to watch the reservoir for some time afterward. I’ve heard it takes hours to burp the system, revving the engine and squeezing the hose the whole time. I had to drain the radiator about 6 months ago and it’s probably been just a couple months since the level in the reservoir stopped dropping by the end of each week.

31 Virgo Rabbit

Bite me

Two bit

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/pakenham/cars-vans-utes/1999-v8-nissan-pathfinder-r50-fully-engineered-price-drop-/1122202002 https://www.lowmileageparts.com/Product.aspx?ProductId=309879&gclid=CjwKCAjw36DpBRAYEiwAmVVDMMyRAlxYiF-k0_qG1QLoo38cZPBWhOPlTtKIHYAnbPGSvz0nN5ewFxoCsugQAvD_BwE#.XSjXQetKipo

Me Tarzan

Generation X

van damme

you should pm slartibartfast he usually knows a bunch about stuff like this

Peripheral arteries

If you're going to be driving thru mud bogs and water holes then you better have a snorkel. I have personally decimated my engine from driving thru what I thought was a puddle only to find out it was 5 foot deep muddy water which my engine drank because I didn't have a snorkel. I don't have a snorkel now, but I also don't drive thru puddles unless I absolutely have to and then I get out and put a stick in it to see what I am about to drive into.

Drain lizard