onespiritbrain

Saturday I welded my exhaust back together.. it was extremely difficult! I had to turn the MIG all the way down to 14 volts and wire speed was at 85. I basically had to spot weld the crack all the way around until it was completely solid, then I drug the weld over the spots for larger surface area penetration. If I slowed down at all it’d blow a hole in the pipe instantly.

Hmmm so a new ignition coil made it worse... “hotter” spark made it worse. Does this problem get better or worse at all as the engine warms up? It’s gotta be fuel, air, or spark and you’ve ruled out spark. Fuel pressure was normal so fuel pump and regulator are fine. Injectors could very well be the issue. Especially since hotter spark made it worse. I’m imagining a poor shot of fuel igniting differently because the spark is more intense. Air/fuel mix could be screwy due to a bad MAF. So it does not miss at idle, only under light load, or is a lot worse at light load. What about while you are parked if you give it a light amount of gas? Does it miss then?

It ran very good today. It seems to be shifting quicker than it has since installing this transmission. TC lockup disengages at less throttle now and seems to stay unlocked longer before going into lockup again. I think I’m going to buy a new TPS. The last junkyard TPS I got was a turd so this time I’ll grab a new one. I am pretty confident the adjustment made everything operate better but I think the jerking issue was actually resolved by tapping the crap out of the gas pedal that day on the hill. I’m guessing maybe the TPS wiper flicked away some copper powder inside of it or something. Or maybe not who knows..

Do you have any engine codes? So it’s missing so badly you can’t drive it? I’d grab a junkyard MAF and see if that fixes it or not. Have you done a compression test?

Absolutely flawless drive after work. No skipping and no jerking. I ran the scantool and saw spikes all over the place... except on the TPS haha. I wonder if my ECU is on the fritz after I took it swimming one of those times.. I may try to grab one at the junk yard next time I go. Edit: woah wait a minute! I see engine load high and throttle position flat as a pancake.

I just set my TPS per these instructions: http://lyberty.com/car/Maxima_A32_docs/EC-engine_control/NTB99-053b.pdf I couldn’t get 0 ohms. I got it down to 9 ohms but the difference between 9 and 0 felt like it must have been .00001” The little piece below the thing that the throttle cables hook on to which has a small adjustment screw was making the throttle cable thing not to sit down all the way on the adjustment screw that you’re not supposed to touch. I got that adjusted and I got the TPS as close as I could get it so we shall see. The TPS was slightly ill adjusted and slightly on that thing is miles off so maybe it’ll make a difference.

It did whatever it’s doing this AM and I tipped in on the gas several times until lockup let go altogether and I coasted downhill at 55mph in OD with no lockup. Lockup engaged again after I got on the gas at the bottom of the hill. I could feel it lightly letting go and biting again leading up to a good grab at the top of the hill mentioned above. I watched the RPM very close while it was doing it and the stronger jerk showed a 100-150rpm rise and drop as it occurred. It’s the TC lockup. I’m not sure exactly what’s going on but I am confident it’s a solenoid related issue. Might even be trans comm plug or TPS related. I’m gonna set the TPS with feeler gauges here in a minute and I’ll clean every comm plug connection.

Well the oil is perfect. Pink as it was the day I put it in.. I cleaned the MAF and plugs for the MAF, TPS, and dizzy. I also rotated the TPS forward a bit. The drive home today was basically flawless except for a couple jerks on the highway and after cresting a hill. It seems to happen much more often when coasting right after having the engine under heavy load. I am starting to suspect the dizzy for the jerking. Now the shifting issue today was quite a shock but I’m sort of wondering if I was doing something weird with the gas pedal.

Oh man... it didn’t shift out of 1st from a stop just a minute ago... it did shift after I let off the gas but it’s never done that before. I very recently went up a large mountain and I’m worried that my external trans cooler couldn’t keep it cool enough. What are the chances that the oil could be “damaged” or thinned out so badly that it’s not allowing for proper operation once it gets hot again??

That’s what I’m afraid of. I haven’t spilled anything and I’m worried the lockup solenoid is failing. My wife’s MDX would do this same sort of thing on the highway except it would super slam so hard the tires would bark instead of a slight jerk. I have noticed an intermittent misfire recently. It’s so slight I didn’t pay it much attention. I guess a little misfire under load on the interstate could feel like a jerk.

Okay I’ve got some serious anxiety building up because on the interstate moments ago my vehicle jerked probably 4-5 times in the span of about 5-10 minutes. The jerk feels like a very short loss in forward momentum followed by an opposite reaction as the momentum returns. I’m so worried it’s the transmission I could die. Not really but I’m going to die if it’s the transmission. I thought I ran over a bump the first time it happened and I couldn’t tell if I let up on the gas slightly and returned my foot downward on the pedal the next couple times. The last time I had my foot down on the gas pedal and it jerked real good and is definitely something. Any insight is greatly appreciated because not knowing is going to eat me alive today.

I took a rough road, my exhaust broke immediately. I’ll have to pull the exhaust out and weld it up. The whole thing looks pretty terrible.. Also I’m not sure exactly when it happened but my wind visor broke off and is now gone. As you can see it needed to be replaced anyhow..

If you can identify what the function of each wire is with a wiring diagram then you will be just fine. Might be a big job but think about how insanely complex the PLC wiring can be in even a small piece of automated industrial equipment. I imagine the fuse banks and relay banks are going to be the most fun, figuring out what the current pinout of each plug harness is and meshing them up with the new engines wiring diagram vernacular. If you do this, I bet a gang of us will help every bit we can.

I just got 16.0 on my last tank of gas. I think ive over inflated my tires though and im going to try to fix that today. What tire tread type MT AT HT are you guys running? and also what tire size? Ive got 31x10.5x15 All Terrain Tread running at 35psi. 1/4 of the tank was running the A/C and the other 3/4 was windows down. 1/2 surface roads and 1/2 highway. So how do we calculate the mph difference from having larger tires? I know my speed is actually a bit slower than what’s shown so the miles traveled have to actually be less than what is shown. Edit: Yep i had my cold tire pressure at 39psi... I took it down to 32 and we'll see what this tank does.

I wonder about the transmission holding up at 300hp.. I suspect you'd need to put a shift kit in it or the soft shifts will quickly turn into slipping. Edit: I also think you should do it!

It looks awesome! Where are you having this done?? I have my hood and fenders which need a respray.

I am having trouble remembering exactly where mine is set but I think I had to set it past 20 to get it running right. There’s 13 teeth on the distributor gear so that’s 28 degrees per tooth and one tooth off would mean your ignition timing would be very far off and might not run at all or it might even backfire. Edit: ohhh wait so you can’t get to 15 at all. Yeah it’s probably off a tooth on the dizzy

No, it was not obvious at all. Actually i almost put it back in but i thought i would clean all the grease out first and so i did using compressed air (yes i was also just playing with it) and while it was spinning in my hand it started making the exact same noise so i chucked it across the room and put a new chinesium bearing in. edit: i could see discoloration on the outer race where heat was building up but the cage and rollers looked nearly perfect. It had to be the inner race that was damaged..

It was the damn inner wheel bearing... I took the axels out altogether while I was installing camber bolts and changing out my sway bar end links and the noise persisted. So aside from having to cut the friggin end links out I had to do the whole job over again plus a wheel bearing. I swear that bearing was fine a month ago. I think maybe I overtightened it after I repacked it. That means the other side is overtightened as well.. I have tried tightening to 80ft# then 18in# or whatever and that has never worked. I always end up with loose bearings a week or two later. Now I tighten to 80ft# and then probably 10ft# but that 10ft# was more like 30ft# that day. I guess I should loosen the other side a little bit..?

I plan to do the same with a black pen if I get tired of the white letters. I kinda look like a race car and it’s funny since nothing is further from the truth!

It won’t tear anything up removing that plate and driving around? If not then that’s exactly what I’ll do!

A noise has revealed itself now that I have some tires that don’t howl. I thought it was just a harmonic of the howling from the tires but it’s not the case. The noise persists and sounds like the lowish hum of a persons voice. It follows wheel speed and peaks in intensity at about 50mph. It’s not the tires for sure. It’s the exact same noise that I thought was coming from the previous set. I really don’t believe it is the bearings because I just repacked them a couple weeks ago and they looked perfect and are completely solid. These CV axles are trashed though... the passenger pops like crazy in 4x4 under acceleration. The boots have been gone for years now and I just pack them with grease after it rains (or any water ingress) and at oil changes. I just put my vehicle up at the corners and ran it up to 60mph in 4x4 then I chocked each wheel to isolate each side and sure enough it’s coming from the front passenger side. Is it possible that a humming noise one might associate with a wheel bearing could come from a CV joint?? I’ve never heard of such a thing..

I’m getting an alignment since I just changed inner/outer tie rods and then I’ll have some pictures. I am really happy with the look and performance (is pouring rain) as well as non existent road noise of these tires.