onespiritbrain

3.3 sucks to change. I’m not sure about the 3.5 but even with it sucking you can do it if you’ve got the tools. I always make a longish extension and go at it from in front of the subframe. Umm I know when my starter has died in the past it usually clicks instead of starting for a while before completely dying. If you can, the next time it refuses to crank, climb under the truck and give the starter a good whack with a hammer, but make sure not to hit the wiring or plug.

Awesome man. I’m seriously considering an SQ build in my QX4. I had a stupid system in my Frontier back in the day and a moderate system not long ago in my QX4 but I had to sell it to make repairs. Love hate.

This is a guess since I had to put a new gauge cluster in but about 35k on them now. There are two with much better tread and another with evenly low tread. I went 20k miles with my suspension in shambles so that’s what I get for the neglect.

How did you paint the pieces? I never ever have good luck painting plastic..

Friggin 33...

Listening as well

I ignored my suspension some more. Oh and got my fog lights working.

My intake temp sensor shows all sorts of false readings. I get 300degF spikes often with no real noticeable effect. I’ve replaced my IAT sensor already though and checked the wiring extensively and the problem persists. I think I submerged my ECU in muddy water and that’s what my issue is.. Anyway, I just wonder how much effect the IAT actually has on the ECUs tuning. Can you just unplug it and see how it runs?

Dude that’s awesome!

Do you see anything out of place under the valve covers? I think in certain positions the cam gear will move slightly. Is there always play or can you turn everything and the play goes away? If there’s always play then something is possibly missing from the lifter assembly. Or the whole thing might be loose or something. I’d take a look under the valve covers and see where that play is coming from.

R50 in the front WD21 in the back [emoji2962]

Wow it looks great

That is awesome!! Lol that’s exactly how I treat mine hahaha

That is a powerhouse amp and that sub looks beefier than a cow. What kind of box did you put it in? What frequency is it tuned at if it’s vented?? You’re going to need 0AWG wire for that amp. Check craigslist for used welding cable. You can find it sometimes with the jacket damaged for super cheap and since you’re just running 14V thru it you can fix it with electrical tape. Sometimes you can find nice runs of big wire at scrap metal places and if you ask the right person they’ll sell it to you. Upload a video to YouTube so we can see your truck flex and the sub excursion!

Nissan Skyline Station Wagon

I’m running this same one also

Dodging bullets like Neo

Yeah, it’s true here also.. an immaculate 90’s model LC is $12-25K. You can find them that have been poorly taken care of for muuuuch less. I see them for $5000 often here in Georgia advertised as needing TLC and having 300K+ miles. I bet you can get a fair engine with the transmission attached for under $10K. I guess any way you look at it, it’s going to be a large investment of time and money.. It’s just a dream of mine and I admire those who are walking in that dream.

My wife’s GX470 is a beast in fine clothes. My poor little 3.3 is far outdone by her V8, however I did tow 4700lbs the other day, buuuuuut it dealt the final blow to my suspension. Anyway I can vouch for the V8 4Runner/GX470, they’re awesome. But, if you’re going to buy a new rig and you’re looking at all option, you may consider a 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser. It’s the last year they put solid front axels in them and they last a long time, granted you should look for one that’s already had it’s mid life head gasket job done. Or better yet look for one with a blown head gasket and slap some MLS gaskets on there. Good luck man

There is a self diagnosis function you should probably do. Do you have a FSM for your model?

It wouldn’t be so bad if you didn’t have to rub your hands and arms all over that fiberglass on the firewall. It’s just the worst. I mean you’re stretched out with something poking you at all times while reaching into a very small space which you can barely see into and if you drop anything you have to slink down and crawl around under the truck in all the leaking fluids until you find it before you climb back to your awkward hurtful position to continue embedding fiberglass into your skin. I will say that it wouldn’t be quite as bad if you use the constant tension clamps that are on there originally... perhaps I shouldn’t have put worn gear clamps on there.

Double post.

“Rebuilt” passenger caliper which was really just replacing all the soft parts.. it’s going to be nice not having to add brake fluid every 12 hours!