onespiritbrain

Boy.. that upper intake is a gigantic, huge, major pain, it’s enough to drive a man insane. I won’t rant.. but I am very displeased. Anyway, success! I was able to cut some threads into the hole left behind after I knocked the warped fitting out. The only tap I had at the shop was a 1/2 bspp which doesn’t have a taper but I used some high quality tape and I feel pretty confident it’ll hold up. Here’s pics :]

Were you running your A/C or defrost?

I think I’m going to try to pipe tap the hole to whatever’s closest 3/8 or 1/2 and slap a barbed fitting in there. Pictures and results tomorrow..

Hey guys, I must have tweaked the fitting in the pictures below while I was tightening the big EGR flange nut. It’s leaking now and it looks like I’m going to have to replace the entire upper intake manifold...... I was wondering if anyone has dealt with this issue before and if it’s possible to heat that area up and knock a new fitting in? Also I am going to try and knock the current fitting back in place however I fear it will only worsen the leak. Any help or suggestion is greatly appreciated. Really don’t want to go to the junk yard for a whole new intake(my other intake has broken vacuum lines and that same fitting is warped)

Yeah I think it looks good haha I do think the brown coating it from running non-synthetic oil though. Not a particularly bad thing but an effect of dino oil for sure. With my old engine I only used havoline 10w30 dino oil and my cap looked just like that but worse. Dry looking light brown coating that could be scraped off into a powder. This is what a BHG looks like:

Lol love the name of this thread Also I’m all for this build thread. You can take the Nissan away from the man but you can never take the Nissan out of him! Really though it’s the people of this forum that make it what it is and the way we treat each other. For instance, most places you can’t ask a freakin question without someone chastising you about using the search button. I swear, this forum is 50%(my entire suspension is in a mountain of boxes waiting to be replaced and I have to buy a shop press freakin never ends or it’s more like 25%) of why I like owning a Pathfinder. Anyway said all that to say that you’ve proved yourself a true part of this group of people and I’m excited to see your new venture!

Sheet music

I don’t know about the VQ but I did head gaskets on my VG and it sucked. If I could go back I’d have just put some blue devil in it and drove it till it died. They say the HG sealer products, especially blue devil, work very well with seeping HGs or HG failures that are not very bad yet.. If you’re not a dumba$$ like me and manage not to destroy you’re transmission then you might just have a great time, even a fun time, doing the HGs. The thing was, for me at least, when I got into the heads I found that my cams and heads themselves were badly worn causing me to have to find replacements. Luckily I had a spare engine that I destroyed the year prior, did I mention I’m a dumba$$? Another thing for me was that every valve needed to be lapped something fierce and it was all more than I bargained for. You can do it, for sure.. but if you can find a nice junk yard motor for cheap it’ll be WAY easier to just swap it in. However I will admit having put this much work into my motor makes me love my vehicle even more.. Last thing, you are right to do this sort of thing while you’re off work. I had a huge project going on during my HG job and I about lost my mind between the two..

Lucid dream

Live on

I second MJO. I bet that rear passenger wheel is spinning. If not then there may be a problem inside the tcase. Was the little center lock indicator on the dash on?

Dead nuts

Brain dead

Combustion engine

Nuclear fission

Lol

Yeah.. I love my VG33, and it was great to work on as an auto repair novice, but it’s performance sucks.. butt. I sure do like the idea of just dropping the diff.. does it not cause a problem with the tie rods and sway bar links? Edit: I was assuming that you were dropping the strut also but after actually reading, you must be looking to correct the CV geometry problem caused by adding a spacer to the spring.

1:1 solution of Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic Transmission Fluid & Lacquer Thinner

Wow, someone screwed the pooch installing those magnaflows.. $200 to fix it isn’t bad at all. You’ll get some of that $200 back by taking the cats to a recycler too. Glad you got everything straightened out.

Honestly my info isn’t in black and white anywhere.. at all... which I think is absolutely ridiculous. What’s more ridiculous is that California mandates entirely separate emissions standards than the rest of the entire USA. I could rattle on in the likes of a novel here but I won’t. The FSM calls the cats nearest to the engine “warm up” cats. I can’t find it to save my life now, and it was probably anecdotal anyway, but I read that CA emission laws require the catalyst system to have the nox output in a certain range by a certain time while the vehicle is still warming up. Then there’s the two different configurations and you can see which you have by whether or not your catalyst tag under the hood says California approved or not. *you can also see here in this pic that it says “2TWC(2)” which is 2 three way catalysts multiplied by two banks for a total of 4 cats on CA approved models* Here are the two separate diagrams: NizmoGizmo, show that guy the tag under your hood that clearly says you have 4 cats. If he doesn’t accept that then definitely go to the dealership and ask them for some kind of document you can bring to the inspector. That 445005 cat you linked says CARB compliant and if you can prove your supposed to have a cat there to begin with then you should be okay even though it is aftermarket. Edit: and if he doesn’t accept that either then cut the things out of there and blow extra emissions into his hippie nostrils on your way out, certification in hand. However... if you later get an inspector that is familiar with Pathfinders then you’re gonna have to cut the straight pipes right back out and install the cats all over again.

I don’t mean to keep posting links but this one mentions your exact issue and is fairly technical: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/vfd-unwanted-segments-glowing/

I didn’t read this thru but I bet your answer is somewhere inside: http://kevinrye.net/index_files/figured_out_vfd.php

Mine has 4 cats. I’ve had all four of them off and all four of them have honeycomb catalyst inside. Looks like Nissan produced two variations for “CA emissions” and “FED emissions”. The CA variant has 4 catalysts, two per bank and the FED variant has 2 catalysts that are directly attached to the exhaust manifold and then the downstreams are indeed resonators.

Wow... there is no emissions testing where I live and I definitely take it for granted.. So are the two post cats aftermarket, or are they the ones that came on the vehicle from the factory? If they’re aftermarket then they’re probably not compliant with the asinine emissions standards out there in CA.

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