LittleFR

They don't make them anymore? No junkyards with them? I do love Red and Green, pretty sure he would replace the engine with a team of squirrels in a cage made of tree bark and put a dog behind them.

I use salt mixed with Dawn instead of the GOJO the fine Italian pumice. But I also have so many cracks and callouses my hands just flat out don't get clean. There are stains and scars and I just don't care anymore. I have been known to put lotion on my hands before working with grease or gear oil if I had a funeral to attend. Makes getting your hands totally clean by washing a lead pipe cinche. And I have various types of rubber gloves for the sewer plant and for lab tech work that I hate wearing but always wish I had after a job.

I had to do a total relearn to run maxima MAF. So I put stock MAF back in and cleaned TB. Changed fuel filter and flushed trans fluid and went back with OEM fluid. And my issues went totally away except when it's cold at first startup. I don't fire it up when it's cold and haven't felt 2-3 flare in ages.

Get out the ol welder and giver hell.

I was going to chime in and ask about t case if it had manual hubs and auto mode in t case? You can tank one quick with unlocked hubs in auto mode.

Pull out the strut and weld in a plate with the right hole pattern.

My local dealership has always honored my recalls old or new....

THIS Has been the standard since the dawn of time. I always check and make sure the old gasket came off with the filter and that's it. Mounting surface should never have been dirty to start with.

SFD will save CVs. At full droop my CVs bind, they do fine until then but not an ideal situation wheeling in the rough. Whatch on your spacers. 1" gets 1.5" 1.5" is like 2"ish of lift 2'' fronts get 2.5"-2.75" Rears are whatever lift the size is. I did rear springs and front springs and spacers. Then let her settle a couple weeks and ordered a rear spacer to get .5" of rake in the rear. I can't stand the front being up.

I see your in Kentucky. Welcome. If I were DT I wouldn't refund it either. I've never bought a header that didn't take a little heat and beat at the least. And in a few cases home-made gaskets to even get a seal. The shop should have put a torch on it and straightened the flange or cut and welded a new one. That would have maintained the integrity of the flange. It sucks but at least it's fixed.

At least the thermostat stuck open not closed. I hate the factory steps, they belong in the junk pile anyways. Looks like a great buy and a nice truck.

Just drive the damn thing. It's a pathfinder. It'll make it. We gave you all the advice there is. You own the single most uncustomizable SUV performance wise ever built unless you make more money than anybody that drove a Nissan makes.

I use a quart of dex merc 3 in oil on anything I buy and let it cycle through a full couple heat cycles under no load and change it with synthetic. I use diesel if lifters are tapping and rev it till it quits or blows. But I really don't trust seafoam or diesel under a load to coat bearings.

So you shook tire up and down and it is for sure the wheel bearing? You could try just greasing and tightening them a tad. It fixed my driver side and was easy. I used a screwdriver and a light touch on a hammer. The stock hubs are just a chunk of steel, I don't think you could break one without a high speed come apart. The vibe could be a number of things, end links and a bad tire come to mind.

I didn't torque mine. I just got them to Frank lbs which was however tight Little Frank could get them with a 3/8 ratchet. Unless you constantly drive in water they shouldn't need grease more than every 10k. I really would check those sway bar bushings out good with end links detached. My town was an island once. It flooded and there was no way in or out for 2 weeks. People were boating to work.

Cleaned out my soured work uniforms out of the back seat. Bought a gas getter cavalier for $500 that needed wheel bearings and haven't driven The Pathy to work in a couple weeks. It was smelling ripe!

Manual hubs can help mileage. You should be fine. I would take mine anywhere in North America. These engines to rev oddly high at 75+ mine seems to get peak mileage at 65.

Mine had like an inch of slack (3.5 though) I tightened them and the only thing that changed was I don't have to put my foot to the floor to get to 55. It took me a few days to stop peeling out at stop signs.

Not worth it? Whom said that? Of course it's worth it. I would run manual hubs on a bone stock R50. If you lift it at all it's almost mandatory. The benefits are improved fuel economy. Better handling. Coasts better. Saves CV shafts. And if you break a CV you can drive it. The two negatives I've found are. You have to lock them in if you get hung up suddenly. You cannot use Auto mode on 4wd unless the hubs are locked in or your transfer case will explode. Manual hubs are step two after step one of buying an R50.

The wheels will clear, it's the tires that would rub struts. A 265/70r16 on trispokes with my setup was close enough to the strut I couldn't fit my checkbook between tire and strut. With 1" spacers I can get my hand in there with play. I don't think a 265/75r16 would have made it without spacers. Bonus tip (with 1" wheel spacers on Trispokes) you don't have to cut a hole in center caps to clear warn hubs. So they stay clean and dry just pop the cap with a pocket knife and lock em in. Makes it easy to clean and unlock after mudding too. I don't know if other brand hubs or wheels work or not. I've got a 1/8" or so of clearance between center cap and lock in.

I've had great luck out of the Moogs I ordered off amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HPXLLS/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484976483&sr=8-2-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pathfinder+moog+sway+bar+end+links I actually rebuilt my entire suspension off amazon. Even got OMEs Also if your anti away bar bushings are shot it could eat the end links. Very easy to change and cost like a nickel.

So much 'Want' for that truck. Love it.

I would start with checking for a rats nest in air filter then change fuel filter. It may rev with no load (not needing as much fuel) or have trash settle in it and flow fine for a while.

Sway bar end link would concern me... I had this happen and it drove me nuts trying to diagnose. Also an out of balance tire could cause it. A broken belt also. And it would be ultra funky symptoms for a slack wheel bearing but wouldn't write it off. Can you afford to or be able to go to any shop with a lift that won't jerk you around and would let you Check tires you can do that Check lug nuts you can do that wiggle your tires up down fore and aft. (A jack would get this) after eliminating that rotate tires (not fun with 'a' jack) Check front end over. If you can't get to a shop, a jack a lug wrench and good common sense should eliminate the biggies and let you judge whether to drive her or not.