GhostPath

Or you could simply replace the mast. That costs about $8-15 on eBay.

FYI and IIRC, the VG30 does whir a bit, even when it was new. It's the water pump plus the belt drive system.

It's also $358 MSRP. Eeep.

Get us a part number, let us see if we can get it here through the dealers.

He's already replaced it, I think. The "MAS" he was referring to, perhaps?

Fuel cut at 2500rpm or so is a classic sign of the CHTS (cylinder head temperature sensor, also known as a coolant temperature sensor) or its harness failing on VG-series engines.

That won't give you any advance warning of impending fuel pump failure until the pressure drops off below the regulator's pop-off pressure.

It's on cylinder number 5. Are your spark plugs wires still connected?

One of those A-pillar pods, perhaps? Or under the dash? Maybe under the stereo?

No clearance issues, nothing like that?

So, what did you do to attach the fans to the radiator, and what modifications did you have to make to the fans/shroud to get it to fit?

It can be done. You can put the sensor in (via a T adapter) where the fuel feed hose meets the fuel rail. I recommend an electric unit, not a mechanical one - a mechanical would be piping gasoline into the interior. You will need a gauge that can read at least 100psi (due to spike pressures in the system). http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku

I'm looking at getting a set of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...688807&rd=1

I think you're mistaken. I don't know of anyone that wants one.

Somebody pulled your socket for the Check Engine light. Probably because they had some annoying problem that wasn't critical that they couldn't solve.

Easier and faster to swap the engine.

Pictures, please?

If you do decide to take the heads off this one anyway, make sure you do it in the reverse of the torque down order to make sure the head doesn't warp. In other words, if the manual tells you to torque down bolts in 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8 order, loosen them in 8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1.

Same as before - piston or rod.

The limited number of cars that had those headlights is a problem, I think. They made a billion or so W/D21s, so it's natural that they'd have a version for them. The later R50 is more numerous... Of course, that said, I wonder what it would take to convert your front end to the later R50?

You might be able to spot a hole in a piston by taking the heads off, but you can't really check the rods without dismounting the engine. If you stalled out the engine in water to the point where it locked up and wouldn't turn until you pulled the spark plugs out to let the water leave, then you bent a rod.

No, it's more likely a damaged piston or bent rod.

For the WD21: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/88-98-NISSA...sspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/88-95-NISSA...sspagenameZWDVW

When you hydrolock an engine, typically the damage is to the *bottom* end, not the top - usually things like bent rods.

Sounds like you cracked the housing getting the crankshaft gear off. If memory serves, you must remove the engine to drop the oil pan and crankshaft to get access to the backside of the oil pump housing. You have to detach the pickup for the pump. I've attached a pic of the system below.