GhostPath

Modern vehicles use either coil-on-plug or coil-pack distributorless ignition. It makes the system more redundant (against single-point failure) and lets you infinitely vary ignition timing as needed. This is part of why modern engines make so much more power per displacement than they used to while getting better fuel economy.

They're the same units - BUT you need to make sure they have them in stock. I went through three vendors on eBay who didn't actually have them in stock and were waiting for a shipment of them that never arrived. acemotors was the only one who had a set in stock and would ship right away.

A bad O2 sensor will sometimes not set a CEL. Another possiblity is that the coolant temp sensor for the EFI has died. This won't set a CEL either.

They all seem to be made in the same Taiwanese factory, so ordering any that look like mine should be fine. Mine were shipped in plain white boxes and contained no real identifying marks. The only thing that resembled that was a molded "KS-DS677" on the back of each unit.

Your pre-cat oxygen sensor has probably gone south.

That would be me that wrote it up (someone else here actually did the swap first but didn't document it). Yes, you get them from eBay. Read the article again for information on what vendors on eBay to get them from and who to avoid. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16854 Just checked - that info is in the first post in that topic.

They are wired to an inverter (came with the set) that I spliced into the lighting circuit - specifically, I tapped off the lines going into the dashboard lighting dimmer rheostat using T-taps (DO NOT USE SCOTCHLOCKS). The inverter itself is attached to the underside of the dash at a support beam with heavy duty outdoor-grade 3M *gray* doublesided foam sticky tape (Home Depot, $4 if you don't already have a roll, has a red plastic backing that you peel off). Slots right in the space there like it was made for it: The wires were routed around the side of the instrument cluster and down to the inverter through a pre-existing hole. On the other, exposed side of the underdash panel, I attached the dimmer/color controls for the overlays. It already has a 3M adhesive back, so all I had to do was wipe down the area with alcohol to clean it, let it dry, then apply the switch panel. After install:

Well, the guy that sold me this one has one for a 93: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-1993...20710QQtcZphoto

This week's project was dealing with the bad steering wheel I had and improving the dash visibility/legibility. I fitted a steering wheel out of a base model S13 240SX (nearly direct fit, needed some trimming of the column clamshells) and Indiglo-type gauge faces (which can be set to mimic the green/white illumination of the rest of the dashboard). They work great. Total cost: Wheel, $25 from salvage yard. Gauge overlays, $25 shipped from eBay. Time: about two hours to get it all in and working. Video of gauges cycling from minimum brightness to max, from green to blue and back. The camera really can't capture it very well, this is the best I can get.: Yeah, I know the gauges are a little ricey, but the old stock dashboard just isn't all that great at night.

I have a client that's a print shop, they have photorepro gear as well as access to a tabloid scanner. It won't happen until next year, though.

It is most informative. There are comprehensive wiring maps, excellent diagrams, and good explanations. Only two problems with it, and it makes me understand why these are so rare. 1. It's 11.75" x 16.5". 2. The diagrams are ridiculously large. They are detailed and easy to read, though. Making copies, digital or otherwise, is going to be a bit of a problem... If anyone needs some answers from the wiring diagram manual, I'll be happy to assist. Just don't ask for entire page scans, because that's just not going to happen; it won't fit on my scanner.

This is what the original factory winch guard looked like:

I've looked at them, and it doesn't look like that at all. The sidewall looks more or less straight up. I've been thinking about it, and I *might* go to a 275 or 285 width, but keep the height the same. Either way, Yokohama says that a 265 can safely be installed on wheels 8.5-10.0 inches wide. A 275 can be used on 9.0-10.5" wide wheels, per them... Like I said, I'm concerned more about the wheel itself scraping on critical parts of the undercarriage.

I have someone locally who's offering me a screaming deal on some wheels and tires - on the condition that I only take them if I can use them and don't sell them. They are 16x10s with new 265/70R16s on them. Essentially, those are 31x10.5's (30.61x10.43), so I know from reading here that since the SEs had those as an option they should fit in terms of tire dimensions. My concern is over the backspacing; they are 4.5" backspacing. Will these have any issues with rubbing on steering, suspension, or braking parts on my 90 WD21 SE? Will the 10" width cause any problems for the bearings or the hubs? I've done some searching and there seem to be conflicting answers. Note that I will never be mounting tires larger than this on the truck at all, so please do not keep potential future expansion in mind as there will not be any. Rapid replies would be appreciated so I could take advantage of this. Thanks!

Don't you need to identify your engine first?

Throttle-body fuel injection version = VG30I Multi-port fuel injection version = VG30E - pictured above.

For us, the Magnaflows will be the most durable, and you can get them from vendors on eBay, new, for a lot less than MSRP.

That pic is from when I was looking at it as a potential purchase. I can assure you that all the fluids have been changed since then. In addition, as soon as it gets warm, all the brake components are going to be replaced with new and/or upgraded components: EBC Sport rotors, Goodridge braided stainless steel brake lines, new hydraulics all around, DOT 4+ brake fluid. I'll also be swapping out the drum brake rear for the disc one.

The US-market 1990 models all have port fuel injection, not throttle body fuel injection. It should look like this (except hopefully cleaner): It looks a bit different than a VG30I, which is what the throtle-body variant's designation is. The engine pictured above is a VG30E, original to my truck. "Looks like a Mitsu engine"??? Sure, just like all V8s look alike...

That would be no. There is a demonstrable difference, both on the dyno and on a flow-bench. See this: http://images.magnaflow.com/05news/magazin...f/catalytic.pdf I would avoid having work done at this man's shop.

I think there was a factory winch bumper, but I'm pretty sure that wasn't it.

See this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16223 Bottom line is that you should replace your cat with a modern free-flow unit. Avoid the ticket, avoid polluting, and get all the performance for not a lot of money.

On my 90 WD21, I need to find a wire behind the instrument panel to tap to sense when the dash lighting is illuminated. I searched and can't find any good information, or a wiring diagram. Anyone have any ideas?

OK, beam pattern time! To compare, here's some from msavides (sorry, I borrowed them because I have no before pics). Note that these are best case scenario for the STOCK lens and reflector combos - msa installed HID lights in his and this is the best he could get: Remember, those are with HIDs in them, so that's as good as the originals will ever get. Notice the narrow beam pattern and vague cutoff, the flares and hot spots. Now, here are the STOCK bulbs with my NEW clear headlights. I do have them aimed a bit high, but notice the nice broad beam pattern, relatively even distribution of light, and decent cutoffs (as decent as DOT legal lights will ever get). And this is on low-beam only - and my camera isn't the best at capturing it. They actually extend further out to the sides than the camera was able to capture, so the beam pattern is nice and broad.

Just to update and close the thread, here's the new thread where I got those clear-lensed headlights and installed them on my WD21: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry274210