GhostPath

Um.... O2 sensors are not coolant temp sensors. Totally separate. Next time, start a new topic, please. In reply: Yes, I have replaced O2 sensors. I use Bosch or NTK sensors. There is only one O2 sensor on WD21 Pathfinders, downstream of the collector and upstream of the catalytic converter.

www.courtesyparts.com 90-95 WD21s all use the same sensor, which is shared with most vehicles that used a VG30E. That said, you will find that the difference between the OEM Hitachi/NGK wires from the dealership and aftermarket replacement is less than $10 or so. The originals are $54 over the counter at my local dealer.

That's a common mod for the Z31 guys - Pathfinder manifold, S13/14 throttle body. You need to port the manifold a little bit around the TB flange to get it to work properly. Also, if you wish more power (but don't care about fuel economy) bypass the cooling lines on the throttle body so coolant does not flow through it.

http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry285598

Well, the costs for everything so far is about $340, including the purchase and disassembly of the manuals plus renting a duplex scanner for the FSM and the architectural scanner for the wiring diagram. If I can get that back, I'll happily hand it out to all comers including giving it to PhatG20 for free distribution. If you're wondering why the wiring diagram needs a superlarge format/blueprint scanner, see: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...=wiring+diagram Edit: Did the math wrong.

I'd like to recover at least some of my costs in doing this. It certainly wasn't cheap to do. Once I've done so, I'd put it up there and let it fly. The only reason I won't give it to them now is because they don't have a donate button that would come back to me.

I just finished tabbing/indexing all the files. Now to find a suitable host...

Last I checked, PhatG20 was down and had been DMCA'd.

The computer is saying "knock sensor" because the sensor is telling it that the engine is knocking, the computer is trying to adjust it out, and nothing it is doing is working. So, it's guessing that the knock sensor is bad - but it's not. Have the mechanic check the thing's timing. It is probably a couple of teeth advanced. Hope he didn't bend your valves.

I think someone got your belt timing off or screwed up your ignition timing. A bad sensor will not cause the truck to knock at idle (in general)

Yup, I do realize this - and this hasn't exactly been a cheap undertaking to do. The paper manual is so fragile and easily damaged... and it's also large and heavy in addition to being very expensive to get. Scanning it in is the only way to make sure it doesn't get destroyed by some random occurrence. I don't think Nissan even *has* any of the English manuals left prior to 94. In case anyone is wondering, yes, I had to destroy an actual paper manual in order to be able to scan it properly. I now have a giant pile of paper that is no longer bound together. *** I decided to go through and tab/index all of them this morning - Nissan's printed chapter indices are apparently sometimes hilariously inaccurate. Looks like if I work steadily, I will be able to get this finished sometime tonight. *** However, this isn't the last offering. I have rented an architectural large-format scanner for a couple of days next week and will be able to scan in the entire factory wiring diagram manual (which is separate from the FSM). That will be even more rare - the only early WD21 FWD in electronic format *anywhere* that I'm aware of.

Not yet, anyway. It's not yet ready, and I need a place to host it where 1) it won't get a DMCA takedown notice and 2) tons of people sucking down a 331mb archive over and over and over won't cost a boatload of money. Yes, that's right, the manual is 331mb *at this point*. It's going to get a little larger as I add more stuff in.

The black one is the Nissan CONSULT connector.

I already did that, I'm modelling it on the existing 94-95 manual PDFs we all know about.

I've just finished the long, arduous, and annoying task of scanning in the entire 1990 factory service manual for the D21 and WD21. I have them segregated by section - Clutch, Manual Transmission, Brake System, etc. - but there are no bookmarks or anything inside each file. To add the bookmarks and indexes would take a lot of time. Should I add them, or just release it as is and trust that people can read the pages and select the appropriate page number?

No longer entirely true. Tonight I finished the last scans for the 1990 Pathfinder/Truck Service Manual. Now to sort everything by section. So far the whole thing is 331mb.

You could set up a small turbo and wastegate so that it was always boosting at idle, but then the truck would fall on its face in the midrange and top end. The only way to get "power everywhere" with forced induction is a supercharger, which is what Nissan did with the supercharged VG33ER in the Frontier and Xterra from 01-04. The KA's design doesn't exactly lend itself to easy supercharger installation, while you can take any VG, swap the intake manifold for the manifold/blower arrangement off the VG33ER, swap the pulleys/accessories, and hey presto, a blower motor. FYI, the numbers for the VG33ER are 210 hp (157 kW) at 4800 rpm with 246 ft·lbf (334 Nm) of torque at 2800 rpm. That's with the stock pulley. If you fit a smaller pulley and an intercooler, you can get 100/100 more.

Yup, we WD21 drivers had optional disc rears and they never gave any problems. That's why I'm looking for a set to convert my current 90 SE. The domestic trucks' problems weren't from disc brakes per se so much as they were from bad design and cheap parts. Remember, GM trucks have a problem with their original rotors *delaminating*, and nobody in their right mind says that we should go back to front drums. Also, trainman: One of the reasons why the bigger rigs took so long to go to disc brakes is because it is much easier to make an air brake system (mandated by law) work with drums than it is discs, but that problem has recently been solved. Example: Mitsubishi M26 Articulated dump truck - discs all around: http://www.mhi.co.jp/gsh/epict126-2.htm Big offroad trucks are using disc brakes now. http://www.equipmentroad.com/equipment/sal...pes/436425.html And most European heavy trucks have used them for years. You should also read this article: http://www.almc.army.mil/alog/issues/SepOc...isk_brakes.html

That would be the KA24, and it's not diesel.

Well, there's one thing - in water crossings with drums, water gets in the drums and takes a while to get out - and in the meantime, no brakes.

I would suggest that you hit Craigslist and buy used. You can get some truly monstrous compressors for next to nothing there.

They're not the same. You can fit the HB's grille to the Pathfinder, true, but most Hardbodies had 6054-type sealed beam headlights, not the PF's composite lensed units. As such, you would need to swap over the lighting stuff from a Hardbody as well.

Examples of WD21s (87-95 Pathfinders) with in excess of 400,000 miles have been reported on this board and spotted in other places. The related truck, the D21 Hardbody, is routinely seen in service with well over 500,000 miles on the original VG30 engine. My own Pathfinder is still running the original engine at 232,000 miles and seems quite happy. If well taken care of, you're going to get bored with it long before it drops dead - which is why people like to modify them. As opposed to Jeeps and some other makes, where they're often so poorly engineered or assembled that you *have* to modify them to fix what the factory broke.

I don't think you're supposed to be able to remove it at all. I remember checking out the one I had with my ill-fated 93 WD21 project, and even with the bolts removed, you couldn't rotate the pulleys separately from the balancer at all - by hand, anyway. The PO of the 93 had levered off the pulleys from the balancer while changing the timing belt and had gotten stumped at that point; I'd bought a new pulley/balancer assembly.

It's not supposed to come apart like that IIRC. The bolts are supposed to be there for reinforcement only, you're not supposed to be able to remove the pulley from the balancer: