GhostPath

The heads will not clear the inner fender wells. That's why Nissan never offered the VG30DE in any of the D21/22/40 trucks.

Use the OE one. The thermostat will regulate temps.

I got it direct from the EPA about two years ago. I called them to see what the legality was of converting my Jeep Grand Wagoneer to diesel. Long story short - the answer is "no" and there's a bunch of regs and laws that all say that. I do some contracting to government/defense contractors. Any time there's an irregularity in *their* bookkeeping, *I* get audited.

If it was the CAS, the truck wouldn't run.

Not quite. It's still illegal, whether your state passes you or not. (Ask the poor b***ards that imported R34 Skylines and registered them with their state only to have the EPA/Customs come crush them after the importation firm got audited.) The Feds aren't going to be running around to see if you've converted your car or not. If the Feds come to audit your taxes (which happens to me on a regular basis), or you come under scrutiny of a Federal agency for some reason, they're going to use the illegal diesel conversion as an excuse to bust you and add/or add additional charges. The penalty is the usual 10 year/$100,000 fine. I leave it to your discretion as to whether it's worth the risk.

It doesn't matter. If you would like to pay for my time, I can go look for and post the appropriate EPA regs. You can do whatever you want in terms of gas-gas and diesel-diesel conversions, but gas to diesel is illegal except in the above mentioned case. Is the EPA going to chase you for it? No. It is legal at the state level? Usually. If the Feds audit you or come looking for something to bust you on, are you going to spend some quality time in a cell? You bet.

My rubber hood stops are trashed and don't make good contact with the hood anyway, and my hood still pops up. I went to take a look at the mechanism, and there's a part of the latch that makes it pop up. Here is a close up of the latch. What pops the hood up is the big spring in the center-right of the picture. This puts tension on the wrench-like bit to the left. That's what pops up your hood when you hit the release.

That's exactly it. Unless there was a diesel version of the vehicle offered for sale in the US, you cannot convert a gas vehicle to diesel in the US. You can go the other way, as 88 mentioned. If you want to know why you can't convert a gas car to run on clean WVO as a diesel, ask the Democrats in Congress. They're the ones that set all this up in the 70s and 80s - and through to the 90s.

Also please note that since Nissan never sold a diesel Pathy in the US, such a swap is *very* illegal in all 50 US states.

True, but a noob/teen vandal might. "I want to sabotage my neighbor's Pathy, how do I get into the gas tank? I think I'll Google for it." So, no, I won't be sharing. But if you have a WD21, look carefully at the latch mechanism and you should be able to figure it out. Key-lock gas caps deter people without tools. A screwdriver or prybar can defeat most of them. And short of fitting a lock and/or locking lugs to the flap, you won't be able to make it more secure. Well, unless you mod the truck to take one of those round billet racing-type gas doors.

And like the Z31 that shares the same mechanism, the WD21's fuel door is easily levered open (without damage) if you know what you're doing and have the proper tool. And no, I'm NOT going to say what to use or how to use it.

Yup, and your mechanic is evidently full of fecal matter. Find another mechanic. The truck doesn't lie.

That's how they steal gas these days. Consider a radar/sonar based alarm, and you might want to consider some protective measures for your tank.

92 timing belts are due every ****60K**** not 105K.

It's one of the switches on the side of the transmission, IIRC. Check to make sure all the transmission switches are plugged in.

If the noise is squealing, then the problem is most likely a loose belt.

Pay special attention to the rears if you have drums in the back. Wheel cylinders can leak into the drums for a surprisingly long amount of time before it becomes obvious.

It's possibly a wheel hub issue. I had a problem where the wheels on my rig were scraping the outer edge of the caliper bracket. That's probably what's happening to this guy.

The R50 also weighs more, so that offsets it. And, well, it's a CAR, not a truck. Trucks have frames, cars don't. It's a pretty good offroad car, though. In addition, the WD21 could have 4 wheel disc brakes, which were more effective than drums. Given a choice between more go-power and more stop-power from the factory, I'll take stopping, thanks.

It's called a hand brake cable or parking brake cable. It's not an "emergency brake" at all. Silly domestic car user! :D CourtesyParts.com has the front half of the cable system for $55.57, the rear half depends on whether you have drum or disc rear brakes. http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/kb_s...on=Go&cat=1

Neither!

Yeah, I have had that happen to me too. Really sucks.

At this point, you need to replace the brake pads again, as you have contaminated the pad material with the WD40. Your brake system is no longer safe. You also need to hose off both sides of your rotors with brake cleaner to remove the residue of the WD40. Clean it up *real* well or you will contaminate the next set of pads! Who told you that spraying a LUBRICANT on a friction brake system was a good idea?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?! :stickwack: :stickwack: :stickwack:

Yes, go with factory wires. You will find that they're competitive with or cheaper than the aftermarket ones at your local parts store AND they're of higher quality. I've never seen a factory wire suddenly "go bad", unlike many aftermarket ones.

To clarify - the WD21 (87-95) never came with a cover, but the R50 *could* have one. It's the single advantage the R50 has over the WD21.