GhostPath

Apparently they're an option on *some* WD21s, because not only do some people here have them for sure, the FAST parts lookup system shows them.

1. Don't get the stock tension rod bushings. Get the polyurethane ones from Energy Suspension. 2. What do you mean by the dealers not being able to help you order the part? It's still a standard item. It has to be sent in from the Nissan warehouses, but they still have plenty. If your dealers just suck, call Nissan Corporate and complain, then go to www.courtesyparts.com and get yourself some tension rods.

Failing that, how much for the plans and specs?

Did you also have cheapo pads?

Nope, just dumb.

Short answer? No.

Ahem, that was me. It wasn't that nobody wanted to "buy" it, as it was donationware. It was that only two people were interested, and an entire other Nissan forum accused me of committing crimes against Nissan or other such garbage for even considering it in the first place. And then other people gave me crap on here. Never mind the fact that I had written permission and partial sponsorship from a dealership, which has permission from Nissan to do that sort of thing (see how, as an example, Courtesy Nissan sells their own customized versions of workshop manuals on CDs for some models.) I ended the project and handed the whole thing over to the dealership because I simply do not have time to put up with petty BS and idiocy when 1) I'm doing something to help the community and 2) I'd gone to the trouble of being fully legal. I have better things to do with my time - like work on my truck or do projects that would actually make money. To the original poster: I can put you in touch with the sponsoring dealership that helped me with this that is currently in possession of the files. PM me if you want the contact info; perhaps they'll agree to ship you a copy. After the idiocy that came out of this, I have no further involvement with the project or the files.

You got ripped off. Especially since the driver's side rear hard line is only about $10-15 from the dealership.

Amsoil may be better... but if it is, why don't they send it for the standard ANSI and API tests? They keep claiming that it will meet or exceed them, then give some run around about how "the tests don't properly measure our oil" etc., etc., and that it's really expensive. Well, guess what. Even a little company like Amalie and some boutique oil sellers for AMC Jeeps can get their oil API tested. It's not that expensive. What is Amsoil hiding?

Touring bikes rarely top 1000lbs, even fully loaded. A loaded-out Goldwing only weighs 850lbs or so. A motorcycle trailer is usually about 500-1200lbs. I'm not seeing 5000lbs there, more like 3500.

You have a short somewhere. Look for exposed wiring to the seat heaters or switches.

Cold air kit will make you consume more fuel, not less. Chip won't really help fuel economy either, unless you really want to be running premium all the time. Keep it tuned up, keep the injectors clean, change the O2 sensor at regular intervals, make sure the tires are properly inflated, keep it at or below 60mph on the highway, use cruise control when possible, use smooth throttle inputs, don't hammer the throttle everywhere. I get 19.2mpg average per tank - 90 SE V6 *automatic*.

Nice. 1. How much is it? 2. How much is shipping to the US port of Houston? 3. Where do you put the turn signals?

Educated in a California public school, were we? 1 mile = 1.6km. 3000 miles = 4800km. 50000 miles = 80000km.

Lucas FI cleaner doesn't really do *anything*. Use Chevron's Techron if you want a proven detergent additive. Also, I don't think an engine that uses 3/4 quart per 3K is particularly alarming.

Spark plug gap opens as the spark plugs are used and wear down through spark erosion. The gap should be .032, and your plugs were probably in there far too long.

ALL A/C compressors are lubricated through an oil that is carried via the refrigerant. True, you load the compressor with esther oil or mineral oil or whatever your refrigerant of choice is compatible with (I prefer R-12, so that's either a synthetic POE compound or the old "mineral oil") in liquid form before you install a new one, but once it's in use, all the parts are lubricated by the oil dissolved in the lubricant. The thing is, some of the older compressors like the York compressor you're referring to didn't rely on the oil to stay circulating throughout the system but had an exterior oil pan that they used as a lube source. They *still* pumped that oil into the system, but you can turn that off and have it rely on the exterior oil source alone. That's why you can get away with converting those to on board air. That said, there are better battery-operated compressors on the market now.

You can use a plastic protectant/reconditioner. These put plasticizer back into the plastic and protect it against UV. These are sold in auto parts stores now. I'm partial to Black Magic's Pro Shine Protectant.

Hm, might be an ECU or wiring issue. Nissan WD21 and later automatics are computer controlled; they go into a limp-home mode if they stop getting usable data from the ECU.

Yes, this is why the power ratings are different. The engine is drawing most of its air through the short intake path. Good for HP, not so good for torque. Why make a different manifold for a variant that's going to be a small percentage of sales? The vast supermajority of Pathfinders are going to be automatics. Better to save money by using the same casting and not machine it for the power valves it can't use. As for why the power valves aren't there - IIRC, the opening and closing of the power valves is dictated by input from the transmission control computer... which manual transmission Pathfinders don't have. Why go to the added expense?

Exactly. If they can't see them, they're not likely to break in to steal them. This is what mine looks like: Good luck seeing what's in the back from outside.

Tint your windows such that they can't see in. This will reduce theft chances. Other than bolting the sub to the floor, there's no good way to secure it that a thief won't defeat in a few seconds with a crowbar or knife.

The CHTS sensor is sold in the aftermarket as the "coolant temp sensor" - it's on top, right next to the outlet for the upper radiator hose. This is what it looks like.

All fuel injected vehicles that use feedback systems have a coolant temp sensor for their fuel injection computer. Nissan calls theirs the Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor to distinguish it from the separate sensor that tells the gauge on the dashboard what to display for coolant temp. It's not under the timing cover, either. So, yes, both the I and E variants have a CHTS.

If the O2 sensor is more than 60,000 miles old, it's past it's spec life and needs to be replaced. It may still "work", but its readings will drift farther and farther away from accuracy. But that's not the key here. You have just encountered a classic VG30 problem. "The pathy seems to idle fine and run fine during accelleration but has a bit of a dead spot in the power band when cruising along steadily at 2000 to 2500 RPM." A dead spot, unwillingness to rev, or just not being able to go above the 2000-2500 rpm window *without* setting any codes (other than a possible O2 sensor code) is a classic sign of either a bad cylinder head temp sensor or bad wires going to it. The Z31 has the same issue - on it, though, the CHTS sensor has a replacable harness that you're supposed to replace at the same time you do the sensor. We aren't so lucky. The CHTS is about $20-30 at the dealership.