GhostPath

Nice. 1. How much is it? 2. How much is shipping to the US port of Houston? 3. Where do you put the turn signals?

Educated in a California public school, were we? 1 mile = 1.6km. 3000 miles = 4800km. 50000 miles = 80000km.

Lucas FI cleaner doesn't really do *anything*. Use Chevron's Techron if you want a proven detergent additive. Also, I don't think an engine that uses 3/4 quart per 3K is particularly alarming.

Spark plug gap opens as the spark plugs are used and wear down through spark erosion. The gap should be .032, and your plugs were probably in there far too long.

ALL A/C compressors are lubricated through an oil that is carried via the refrigerant. True, you load the compressor with esther oil or mineral oil or whatever your refrigerant of choice is compatible with (I prefer R-12, so that's either a synthetic POE compound or the old "mineral oil") in liquid form before you install a new one, but once it's in use, all the parts are lubricated by the oil dissolved in the lubricant. The thing is, some of the older compressors like the York compressor you're referring to didn't rely on the oil to stay circulating throughout the system but had an exterior oil pan that they used as a lube source. They *still* pumped that oil into the system, but you can turn that off and have it rely on the exterior oil source alone. That's why you can get away with converting those to on board air. That said, there are better battery-operated compressors on the market now.

You can use a plastic protectant/reconditioner. These put plasticizer back into the plastic and protect it against UV. These are sold in auto parts stores now. I'm partial to Black Magic's Pro Shine Protectant.

Hm, might be an ECU or wiring issue. Nissan WD21 and later automatics are computer controlled; they go into a limp-home mode if they stop getting usable data from the ECU.

Yes, this is why the power ratings are different. The engine is drawing most of its air through the short intake path. Good for HP, not so good for torque. Why make a different manifold for a variant that's going to be a small percentage of sales? The vast supermajority of Pathfinders are going to be automatics. Better to save money by using the same casting and not machine it for the power valves it can't use. As for why the power valves aren't there - IIRC, the opening and closing of the power valves is dictated by input from the transmission control computer... which manual transmission Pathfinders don't have. Why go to the added expense?

Exactly. If they can't see them, they're not likely to break in to steal them. This is what mine looks like: Good luck seeing what's in the back from outside.

Tint your windows such that they can't see in. This will reduce theft chances. Other than bolting the sub to the floor, there's no good way to secure it that a thief won't defeat in a few seconds with a crowbar or knife.

The CHTS sensor is sold in the aftermarket as the "coolant temp sensor" - it's on top, right next to the outlet for the upper radiator hose. This is what it looks like.

All fuel injected vehicles that use feedback systems have a coolant temp sensor for their fuel injection computer. Nissan calls theirs the Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor to distinguish it from the separate sensor that tells the gauge on the dashboard what to display for coolant temp. It's not under the timing cover, either. So, yes, both the I and E variants have a CHTS.

If the O2 sensor is more than 60,000 miles old, it's past it's spec life and needs to be replaced. It may still "work", but its readings will drift farther and farther away from accuracy. But that's not the key here. You have just encountered a classic VG30 problem. "The pathy seems to idle fine and run fine during accelleration but has a bit of a dead spot in the power band when cruising along steadily at 2000 to 2500 RPM." A dead spot, unwillingness to rev, or just not being able to go above the 2000-2500 rpm window *without* setting any codes (other than a possible O2 sensor code) is a classic sign of either a bad cylinder head temp sensor or bad wires going to it. The Z31 has the same issue - on it, though, the CHTS sensor has a replacable harness that you're supposed to replace at the same time you do the sensor. We aren't so lucky. The CHTS is about $20-30 at the dealership.

Most likely bad/worn tie rods/tie rod ends, etc., for the vague steering. You probably should look at overhauling your entire steering linkage with that many miles. Bumps on the road could be control arm bushings, ball joints, wheel bearings, or a host of other issues including a simple alignment problem. Have the vehicle's alignment checked and report back.

Did your rust problem appear before or after your corrosion warranty ran out? If after, then there's nothing they can or should do about it. The general sentiment here seems to be against you. If you feel so strongly about it, feel free to pay a lawyer and press your case. And in the meantime, if Toyotas please you so well, please sell your Nissans and buy Toyotas instead - that way the rest of us don't have to hear your complaining.

If it was low carbon steel, it wouldn't rust quite so bad. Lots of trucks use 1/4" steel for their frames back in this era, too.

Other way around. *High* quality steel, but thin. Nissans (and other Japanese vehicles) tend to be made out of much better (read: higher carbon) steel than Detroit used/uses, so for a required strength, they can use less steel. They don't always, but they can. That said, high-carbon steel will rust out much faster than cheaper low-carbon steel (just ask a good knifemaker), so more rustproofing needs to be applied and more care needs to be taken than with low-carbon vehicles (or knives).

You forgot powerful Hella lights, clear shields for same, a winch, and front and rear hitches. I'd keep the sway bars and put some disconnects on.

Hahaha... I traded those tires and wheels to someone for the 16" wheels and tires that are on my truck now. It's got "street slicks" on it now, so the code enforcement guys stay happy.

Um, it's not just 94/95. You need to read the boards more - it's *all* the WD21s. I have a 90 parts truck that's got frame rot. Here's the pic to prove it. If you live anywhere it snows and they use salt on the road, it disintegrates - just like every other Japanese car from the era. Of course, some of them *won't* disintegrate. Why? Because some dealerships actually *did* do those "undercoating" and "rustproofing" sprays that are so often ripoffs. Others live in dry climates and are less exposed to moisture. This one was from South Carolina; it was a very, very base XE and there's no signs that the thing had *any* treatments at the dealership or that it was ever well cared for. My 90 SE started off life in humid Jackson, MS, kicked around there for a decade, then came to North Texas. While it doesn't have all the options, it DOES clearly have traces of an aftermarket undercoating or rustproofing spray on the undercarriage. Yeah, I already took the correction on the Hardbody. The Toyotas, though... no. The Tacoma came in out 95 and was really an early release 96 model. There *are* non-Tacoma 95's out there, my schoolmate bought one new my senior year in high school. If you had one of those, it rusted. Toyota won't do anything about that. Nor will they do anything about the rust on the T100 trucks. You are aware that the Tacoma has been a huge nightmare for Toyota and that they're only doing this to keep people from fleeing to Nissan, right? http://www.ziebart.com/ As an owner of British cars, I have little sympathy for you - especially because you should have caught the frame rot before it became too bad - as it is rather obvious. Brit cars like to rust in not-so-obvious places which tends to then kill the car in an irrepairable fashion. All I'm seeing here is the typical whine - "Something went wrong and it can't be my fault, who can I sue?!" If you do start a class action lawsuit, *I* won't be participating.

You may have airlocked the master cylinder primary circuit. Try bleeding the master cylinder.

I type corrected. The 98-up *Frontiers* don't have it, though, or I've never heard of it. The 95-down Nissan truck is just like the 95-down Toyota truck. It rusts. Deal with it.

Yes... So, pray tell how Toyota is handling the rust issues on the 75-95 trucks and 4Runners. Those things rust out so fast it's not even funny. My 82 was rusted out around the top cab corners by the time it was 10.. in rust-free Southern California!!!! Hint - they're actually doing WORSE than Nissan. The Tacoma is being bought back because aside from the rust problems, they've had suspension problems, drivetrain problems, electrical problems.... Toyota is in serious danger of losing their customer base with that truck. And the rust issue would be the straw that broke the camel's back for many customers. FYI, they're only doing it for the 96-up trucks, which are the Tacomas. If you had a 95 Toyota, you'd still be screwed. Compare like to like, please. The 96-up Pathfinders don't have this problem. The Hardbodies don't seem to have this problem. This is a weirdness of the old WD21 that they've corrected since.

A long overdue reply - yes, Hella 450 will fit just fine. You will have to do some splicing of wires.

A little alcohol on the rubber is fine as it cleans the dirt and crud off. However, it also dries out the rubber and accelerates its decay. You should follow up with some treatment that includes a plasticizer replenisher. I use a combination of Black Magic's Pro-Shine Protectant followed up with some of the same company's silicone-based Tire Wet for finishing.