GhostPath

FYI, a new one *from the dealer* is only around $60 or less.

What, the "Jeep club" didn't know? Yes, it will swap on. However, you may have to swap the bumper brackets for it to work.

The big weakness of the rotary was, and remains, the apex seals.

Mink oil is bad - it will eventually rot out your leather seats. Over in the Jaguar world, we all swear by this stuff: http://www.leatherique.com/ Their Prestine Clean and Rejuvenator Oil are by FAR the best things to use to care for and clean leather. They're not cheap, but they are astoundingly effective.

Haven't seen them in metric per se. I got these gauge faces/overlays from eBay.

Check your tension/compression rods in your front suspension (one per side - if 4WD, they form the trailing side of your lower "A-Arm" setup). One or both is probably broken; or at the very least you've got missing bushings on one.

You mean like these?

The WD21's deflector replaced the glass hinges as well...

How to replace WD21 tire carrier bushings and pins: http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/Campingart/nistail/ (not my site, just coincidentally came across it in the archives.)

The current URL for this thing is: https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/product_in...roducts_id=2867 It looks like the Nissan dealership kit. For later location, it's on their site under Trail Gear: Trail Accessories: Swing Away Tire Carrier Mount.

It *is* selectable. It just uses jumper wires instead of a switch because the Autogage line is the cheap one for Autometer. Autometer's top line gauges sometimes have a switch on the back; Sun, VDO, and Stewart Warner almost all have switches on the back or inside the back housing, too. Check out this manual for the top line Cobalt Digital tach by AutoMeter: http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/1222.pdf You configure it via buttons, even! Oh, and when you post stuff like the below, running down someone else's truck? Don't expect a real friendly welcome, no matter what the provocation. I'm surprised more people weren't ruder. As you have just discovered, some of us *may* know a thing or two about hardware that you don't. I'm not the most knowledgable person on WD21s in here, but I'm okay on PF-specific stuff and good to excellent on general automotive (I build monster Jaguars for *fun*). Unfortunately, I think you just insulted some of those people who are much, much better than I am.

Okay... will you need an explanation of how ABS works as well?

Usually it's a bad wheel speed sensor.

I run to redline (5500), but not beyond. However, the Z31 300ZX has the same limiter. And I paid a lot of attention to that when I had a Z31 Turbo car.

The ECU will cut fuel and spark at 6450.

I've refrained from getting deeply involved in this, but you just asked for it. Hm. "Imaginary" selectable tach? Let's see. You say you have a "Monster Tach". That would be the AutoMeter-made one, right? Here's the instructions for it: http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/1076B.pdf And, oh, look, here on page 1. A section labelled "CALIBRATION" with instructions on how to wire it up so it reads accurately for different engine cylinder counts. So, yes, it's selectable for the number of cylinders. Congratulations. **********************************************

You'd need to have a JWT, Stillen, or Nismo ECU - unless you got NisTune, then you might be able to change it, but Nistune hasn't been around for very long. And it's pretty obvious if you have any of those three aftermarket ECUs. Thing is... the only people who ever use that kind of stuff are the boosted guys - the VG30ET and VG33ER powered cars and trucks. The VG heads just *can't* flow enough while normally aspirated to make much power over 5500 or so.

The 2WD tension rod goes in front of the suspension arms. The 4WD compression rod goes behind it. They both serve the same purpose, but they're not interchangable.

There are some situations when you can go over 6450, but yeah, if you do the thing comes apart.

Um... your Monster tach is off, probably by not an insignificant amount. Do you have it set for 4, 6, or 8 cylinder operation? You WILL slam valves at 6500 (if not before - but the DEATH FOR SURE RPM is ~6500) unless you have installed lighter valves and/or higher pressure valve springs. My guess - you have it set to 4 cylinder operation and it's reading more RPM than it's actually getting.

Courtesy's lookup is like FAST... Only slower, dumber, and with obfuscated part numbers. And it's a lot less accurate. It's like comparing a Little Red Wagon (not the Dodge) to a Hardbody. Same general idea (something to haul crap around in), but one is a lot better. No substitute for FAST. I've used better systems, true, but FAST makes Courtesy's catalog look lame.

No, wait until AFTER the legal case is decided. That way, you don't mess up any monetary compensation.

Flowmasters suck - they all drone at highway speeds. My call (and this is what I'll be doing next year after hearing one that was configured like this): Magnaflow freeflow cat, Magnaflow muffler, all in 2.5".

I know it's possible to have drum/LSD - seen enough of them in the junkyard. Dunno about disk/open. I'll be scavenging the junkyards for a rear disc axle soon, so I'll see what there is to see. I suspect it was possible - say, an XE special ordered with discs.