GhostPath

It *is* selectable. It just uses jumper wires instead of a switch because the Autogage line is the cheap one for Autometer. Autometer's top line gauges sometimes have a switch on the back; Sun, VDO, and Stewart Warner almost all have switches on the back or inside the back housing, too. Check out this manual for the top line Cobalt Digital tach by AutoMeter: http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/1222.pdf You configure it via buttons, even! Oh, and when you post stuff like the below, running down someone else's truck? Don't expect a real friendly welcome, no matter what the provocation. I'm surprised more people weren't ruder. As you have just discovered, some of us *may* know a thing or two about hardware that you don't. I'm not the most knowledgable person on WD21s in here, but I'm okay on PF-specific stuff and good to excellent on general automotive (I build monster Jaguars for *fun*). Unfortunately, I think you just insulted some of those people who are much, much better than I am.

Okay... will you need an explanation of how ABS works as well?

Usually it's a bad wheel speed sensor.

I run to redline (5500), but not beyond. However, the Z31 300ZX has the same limiter. And I paid a lot of attention to that when I had a Z31 Turbo car.

The ECU will cut fuel and spark at 6450.

I've refrained from getting deeply involved in this, but you just asked for it. Hm. "Imaginary" selectable tach? Let's see. You say you have a "Monster Tach". That would be the AutoMeter-made one, right? Here's the instructions for it: http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/1076B.pdf And, oh, look, here on page 1. A section labelled "CALIBRATION" with instructions on how to wire it up so it reads accurately for different engine cylinder counts. So, yes, it's selectable for the number of cylinders. Congratulations. **********************************************

You'd need to have a JWT, Stillen, or Nismo ECU - unless you got NisTune, then you might be able to change it, but Nistune hasn't been around for very long. And it's pretty obvious if you have any of those three aftermarket ECUs. Thing is... the only people who ever use that kind of stuff are the boosted guys - the VG30ET and VG33ER powered cars and trucks. The VG heads just *can't* flow enough while normally aspirated to make much power over 5500 or so.

The 2WD tension rod goes in front of the suspension arms. The 4WD compression rod goes behind it. They both serve the same purpose, but they're not interchangable.

There are some situations when you can go over 6450, but yeah, if you do the thing comes apart.

Um... your Monster tach is off, probably by not an insignificant amount. Do you have it set for 4, 6, or 8 cylinder operation? You WILL slam valves at 6500 (if not before - but the DEATH FOR SURE RPM is ~6500) unless you have installed lighter valves and/or higher pressure valve springs. My guess - you have it set to 4 cylinder operation and it's reading more RPM than it's actually getting.

Courtesy's lookup is like FAST... Only slower, dumber, and with obfuscated part numbers. And it's a lot less accurate. It's like comparing a Little Red Wagon (not the Dodge) to a Hardbody. Same general idea (something to haul crap around in), but one is a lot better. No substitute for FAST. I've used better systems, true, but FAST makes Courtesy's catalog look lame.

No, wait until AFTER the legal case is decided. That way, you don't mess up any monetary compensation.

Flowmasters suck - they all drone at highway speeds. My call (and this is what I'll be doing next year after hearing one that was configured like this): Magnaflow freeflow cat, Magnaflow muffler, all in 2.5".

I know it's possible to have drum/LSD - seen enough of them in the junkyard. Dunno about disk/open. I'll be scavenging the junkyards for a rear disc axle soon, so I'll see what there is to see. I suspect it was possible - say, an XE special ordered with discs.

Apparently they're an option on *some* WD21s, because not only do some people here have them for sure, the FAST parts lookup system shows them.

1. Don't get the stock tension rod bushings. Get the polyurethane ones from Energy Suspension. 2. What do you mean by the dealers not being able to help you order the part? It's still a standard item. It has to be sent in from the Nissan warehouses, but they still have plenty. If your dealers just suck, call Nissan Corporate and complain, then go to www.courtesyparts.com and get yourself some tension rods.

Failing that, how much for the plans and specs?

Did you also have cheapo pads?

Short answer? No.

Ahem, that was me. It wasn't that nobody wanted to "buy" it, as it was donationware. It was that only two people were interested, and an entire other Nissan forum accused me of committing crimes against Nissan or other such garbage for even considering it in the first place. And then other people gave me crap on here. Never mind the fact that I had written permission and partial sponsorship from a dealership, which has permission from Nissan to do that sort of thing (see how, as an example, Courtesy Nissan sells their own customized versions of workshop manuals on CDs for some models.) I ended the project and handed the whole thing over to the dealership because I simply do not have time to put up with petty BS and idiocy when 1) I'm doing something to help the community and 2) I'd gone to the trouble of being fully legal. I have better things to do with my time - like work on my truck or do projects that would actually make money. To the original poster: I can put you in touch with the sponsoring dealership that helped me with this that is currently in possession of the files. PM me if you want the contact info; perhaps they'll agree to ship you a copy. After the idiocy that came out of this, I have no further involvement with the project or the files.

You got ripped off. Especially since the driver's side rear hard line is only about $10-15 from the dealership.

Amsoil may be better... but if it is, why don't they send it for the standard ANSI and API tests? They keep claiming that it will meet or exceed them, then give some run around about how "the tests don't properly measure our oil" etc., etc., and that it's really expensive. Well, guess what. Even a little company like Amalie and some boutique oil sellers for AMC Jeeps can get their oil API tested. It's not that expensive. What is Amsoil hiding?

Touring bikes rarely top 1000lbs, even fully loaded. A loaded-out Goldwing only weighs 850lbs or so. A motorcycle trailer is usually about 500-1200lbs. I'm not seeing 5000lbs there, more like 3500.

You have a short somewhere. Look for exposed wiring to the seat heaters or switches.

Cold air kit will make you consume more fuel, not less. Chip won't really help fuel economy either, unless you really want to be running premium all the time. Keep it tuned up, keep the injectors clean, change the O2 sensor at regular intervals, make sure the tires are properly inflated, keep it at or below 60mph on the highway, use cruise control when possible, use smooth throttle inputs, don't hammer the throttle everywhere. I get 19.2mpg average per tank - 90 SE V6 *automatic*.