GhostPath

Edit: Due to lack of interest and some idiocy from members of another board who shall remain nameless, this is no longer available. Interested parties may PM me for the contact info of the Nissan dealership (who was partially sponsoring the project) that I have given the disk image to.

Either will work fine, but the NTK *is* OEM.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16223

Not only will a bad O2 sensor sometimes not set a check engine light, many of the WD21s don't even *have* a check engine light.

Like most older Japanese vehicles, there's a separate voltage regulator for the instrument panel only.

Bump for edit and changed terms BECAUSE OF LACK OF INTEREST FROM PEOPLE WHO SAID THEY'D PONY UP.

Bump for edit and changed terms BECAUSE OF LACK OF INTEREST FROM PEOPLE WHO SAID THEY'D PONY UP.

The Heap doesn't have a trunk, so it has to be located somewhere else out of the way. They get credit for not burying it under the interior cladding like Nissan did, but obviously their approach has bad points too - as you have just found out. The ECU on that Heap is in the engine bay. You read that right, it's exposed to the elements in the engine bay. Brilliant, huh? Partially explains why ECU replacement is considered normal on domestics and why it's so rare on imports... I would suggest getting a used amp out of a dead Heap or off eBay first - it's entirely possible that the amp shorted out and backfed into the head unit. If that's the case, you get to replace *all* of the audio system electronics. Now, get that Heap out of our garage!

Sounds like you have the later R50 manuals then - think a lot of people want those.

The Jeep sound system relies upon an amp that's under the back seats. It probably was destroyed when the water got in.

Did you check the connector at the throttle position sensor on the throttle body? Did you also check the connector on the idle air controller on the intake manifold?

Update: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17503&hl= Edit: Due to massively underwhelming response and at least two people's threats of piracy/leaving me holding the bag on costs, I have had to change the terms on which I am offering these manuals. Please check out the above thread for more details.

The 1994 and 1995 Nissan Pathfinders are the only WD21-series Pathfinder that have an electronic factory service manual. Unfortunately, the earlier trucks have little in common in terms of interior or electronics, so these trucks are out of luck. The printed manuals for the earlier trucks are expensive, fragile, and hard to find. And the wiring diagrams (another, separate manual) are apparently made of unobtanium. Edit: Due to lack of interest and some idiocy from members of another board who shall remain nameless, this is no longer available. Interested parties may PM me for the contact info of the Nissan dealership (who was partially sponsoring the project) that I have given the disk image to.

The 1994 and 1995 Nissan Pathfinders are the only WD21-series Pathfinder that have an electronic factory service manual. Unfortunately, the earlier trucks have little in common in terms of interior or electronics, so these trucks are out of luck. The printed manuals for the earlier trucks are expensive, fragile, and hard to find. And the wiring diagrams (another, separate manual) are apparently made of unobtanium. Edit: Due to lack of interest and some idiocy from members of another board who shall remain nameless, this is no longer available. Interested parties may PM me for the contact info of the Nissan dealership (who was partially sponsoring the project) that I have given the disk image to.

Um... 90-up have MPFI, not TBI. No TBI unit to scrub out.

I'll probably do something like that - I do have a PayPal account. All I'm working on right now is a method to distribute this fairly without sucking up too much of my own bandwidth. I'll post up when I have it going.

Check under the rear seat. Changing the plugs is easy if you have the original toolset that came with the car. Without it? Well... #6 (driver's side rear) is a royal PITA.

Um, actually, once you've locked the front autohubs on a WD21, you *have* to reverse to unlock them. Shifting into 2WD after they're locked only stops supplying power to the front driveshaft.

Well... the bung or fitting that the O2 sensor screws into is welded to the pipe. If the O2 sensor has been in there longer than it's supposed to, it can look like it's part of the sensor. And if you're in a rust-promoting environment or the previous person didn't use antiseize, it may have rust-welded together.

Fuel injection systems have no choke. It sounds like your coolant temp sensor has gone south, that would fit the description - as mentioned above.

A wrench of the appropriate size is all that is required. Our sensor isn't in a weird location, so it does not need a socket to remove. You will also want to soak it in penetrating lube (SeaFoam, Kroil. NOT WD40) for a day before attempting it.

Ask them for yourself: http://www.z31.com It adds power by not heating the air flowing through the TB. Cooler air = denser = more power.

Um.... O2 sensors are not coolant temp sensors. Totally separate. Next time, start a new topic, please. In reply: Yes, I have replaced O2 sensors. I use Bosch or NTK sensors. There is only one O2 sensor on WD21 Pathfinders, downstream of the collector and upstream of the catalytic converter.

www.courtesyparts.com 90-95 WD21s all use the same sensor, which is shared with most vehicles that used a VG30E. That said, you will find that the difference between the OEM Hitachi/NGK wires from the dealership and aftermarket replacement is less than $10 or so. The originals are $54 over the counter at my local dealer.

That's a common mod for the Z31 guys - Pathfinder manifold, S13/14 throttle body. You need to port the manifold a little bit around the TB flange to get it to work properly. Also, if you wish more power (but don't care about fuel economy) bypass the cooling lines on the throttle body so coolant does not flow through it.