GhostPath

Yes, go with factory wires. You will find that they're competitive with or cheaper than the aftermarket ones at your local parts store AND they're of higher quality. I've never seen a factory wire suddenly "go bad", unlike many aftermarket ones.

To clarify - the WD21 (87-95) never came with a cover, but the R50 *could* have one. It's the single advantage the R50 has over the WD21.

Nissan never made one; there's nothing in the parts manual about one, nor is there provision for one - the Z31 300ZX, which has a similar rear configuration to the Pathfinder, has one, but the rear panels are clearly configured for it. Ours aren't. I would imagine that one isn't too hard to make. You might even be able to adapt the one off a 300ZX. That said, if you have an internally carried spare, it's going to be difficult.

I'm looking at the manual right now. The 2WD auto trans is 8 3/8 quarts, the 4WD is 9 quarts.

Your cousin? He's an idiot. Don't ever take a car to him - if he can't get this right or at least tell you "I don't know," then you don't need to have him work on your car. Whoever told you 6 quarts? They're even bigger idiots. Per the 1990 Factory Service Manual, and assuming you changed the filter at the same time, the 4x4 V6 takes 3 and 5/8 quarts. The 2WD takes 4 and 1/4 quarts. And yes, if you overfill, the crank can "froth" the oil and generate little bubbles that don't contain lubricant, yet get stuffed into the oiling system. Looks like you're going to be siphoning or draining out some oil.

How did you determine that they were steel?

None of the Pinto's engines (Kent, EAO/OHC, Cologne) had steel pistons. They were all iron block; some had iron heads, ALL had aluminum pistons. The only engines produced since about 1969 with steel pistons are *diesels*. The reason you don't see them in gas engines is that the higher redlines combined with the much greater inertia of a steel or iron piston would result in wrist-pin, wrist bearing, connecting rod, or connecting rod bearing failures in short order.

That looks pretty good! I was thinking about doing something similar for my WD21, good to see that it works out well with the similar body shape.

There is, but not on Pathfinders or any other Nissan produced after the 510 was introduced, unless maybe some of the diesels did. Kitta: Aluminum pistons have been standard fare on all but the cheapest, most stupidly designed gasoline engines since just after WW2. Steel/iron pistons in a gas engine??? That idea got tossed out before WW2.

Bad/loose wheel bearing, bad tire, bad tie rods (had alignment checked lately?), bad ball joints... Or it could be as simple as you lost a wheel weight on that side.

Shop carefully on eBay. I got my Brembo front rotors for $10.99 the pair, plus $20 shipping. I also recommend the Performance Friction CarbonMetallic pads, available from AutoZone. Awesome street pads.

The only thing you can't convert is the AC compressor. Everything else is a simple job for the machine shop boys. Alternately, you could just get all the VG33 accessories and use them.

Stupid question, why do you "need" to run the VG30's pulleys? The only thing you can't get/make conversion pulleys for is the AC compressor.

Not so, it's more of a thermal regulating valve. If it fails open, the car may *never* get up to operating temperature.

The exact error codes that you are getting would be nice.

Um, I just told you it is before the catalytic. It's after the exhaust manifolds, after the pipe that connects them together, and before the catalytic converter. If you're still having trouble finding it, do this: With the car COLD and having been off for at least three hours, and while wearing gloves (don't want you burning yourself and suing me) grip the exhaust pipe that goes into the catalytic converter from the engine with your hand, such that your hand completely encircles the pipe. Slide that hand towards the front of the vehicle. Your hand will run into a cylindrical object poking out of the pipe at a 90 degree angle. It will have wires or a braided/corrugated sheath coming out of it that disappears up into the top of the engine bay. That will be your O2 sensor. As for removing the cat, read this post: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16223

How do you "know" that the thermostat is OK? They can be bad out of the box, you know, especially the aftermarket ones. {grumbles about Stant and four bad t-stats in a row on a Toyota}

There's only the one O2 sensor on a WD21 - it's mounted on the pipe between the collector and the catalytic converter.

IIRC, no. The Z31 radiator is designed to be mounted slanted. It is also wider and shorter than the Pathfinder's opening.

In many cases, the Bosch plug in the German cars isn't necessarily the same one you get over the counter at AutoZone, FYI. Also, none of the Euro cars use the American-market type Bosch Platinums as factory fitment. In addition, the +2 and +4 are specifically marketed to owners of older vehicles as a way to "increase performance," ha ha. The problem with Bosch plugs, especially the platinums, is that their insulators and tips are often shaped is a way that makes them very different from conventional plugs and this changes the flow and swirl in the combustion chamber. Often this leads to performance changes (usually for the worse) in engines that were not designed to use that type of plug. Examples: 1. With the Jaguar 4.2L inline six, if it is in good shape and running properly swapping the plugs from the OEM-recommended Champion RN12YC's to any Bosch plug will cause the car's fuel economy to decrease and the car will no longer pass smog. 2. With the Z31 (84-89 300ZX) turbo cars, fitting Bosch platinums will cause the car to fail smog AND if you get on it you *will* melt the electrodes. Bosch Silvers or Supers work OK, but provide no change in power or fuel economy (proven via dyno). 3. On a Mercedes 190E 2.6, installing regular Bosch Supers (OEM spec) or Silvers causes no problems or issues. Installing the Platinums, of any type, will get you a power and fuel economy decrease and again, the car will not pass smog. My thoughts on the matter are that unless there is a known problem with the manufacturer's recommended plug, you should stay with that plug as it will usually be the best for your engine.

WD21s could have rear disc brakes as an option. Just sayin'....

(Initial post should have said that the manual was for 1994+ trucks, not just 94) Well, for starters, justa about all the info for the interior or wiring is pretty much irrelevant for the older trucks. 94-95 have a different interior and electronics fitment. They also have different bumpers. Also, a number of people with the older trucks have found that the directions in the 94-95 manuals don't make sense for the 90-93 trucks, even when the systems involved look or supposedly *are* the same. Strange, but there you go. A quick comparison between the short-lived 1990 manual on PDF project and the 94+ manuals shows a LOT more differences. The 90 manual is about 2x larger in terms of page numbers, IIRC.

That's for the 1994 trucks only - there's about a billion copies of this kicking around the internet already.

It sounds like you may have a flaky fuel pump or maybe your MAF (or what passes for it on the TBI trucks, I don't recall) is heading south.

You can get group-buy pricing from these guys: http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88784 And these guys are just starting another group buy: http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread....788&page=10