GhostPath

Nissan still makes them, they take about 5 minutes to change and while you're at it you need to clean all the leaves out of your blower casing (do a search for "blower" and "fire".)

What condition are the window seals (the ones around the glass) and the door seals on the leading edge in? The tube containing the wiring to the door may have come off or rotted out.

If you were using it as a pry bar, you wouldn't bend the control arm. In order to use it, you whack the end of the fork with a hammer to drive the wedge between the ball joint and the arm or object it's in. If the joint is stuck (say, rusted in place or even just not coming out), the impacts get transmitted into the suspension arm. What do you think that force does? And if you have damaged joints that you're trying to remove, sometimes you end up breaking the pin of the ball joint right off with that pickle fork. And then you get to have the fun of figuring out some other way to get it out. Sometimes it's the right tool to use. On the other hand, sometimes it's not. And it's often easier just to use one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=38335 No Neanderthalic hammering required.

Could be TPS, Mass Air Flow meter, or the wiring to either. Sounds like whatever it was, you bumped or moved it when you took the air cleaner off. Might also be fuel pump or trash in the tank.

I was quoting the manual and using past experience on 4x4s for the above. Guess there is a shortcut. BUT... The thing about the pickle forks and why they're a bad idea is that you can actually damage/bend control arms with it when you're trying to remove a ball joint. I've seen it happen, I've actually done it by accident (and had to buy a new control arm for a 300ZX); it's just a bad idea, IMHO.

A better option would be to buy a rusted-out 4x4 Pathy with a manual. You're going to need a lot more parts than just the trans, and the cheapest way to get it would be to buy a parts PF that already had them. That's what I did here - I traded a rusty manual PF to a friend to get his automatic transmission. It was cheaper all the way around, and now we have what's left of the truck to part out.

I'm going to be doing this this weekend, weather permitting, and it doesn't look like fun. First, the CV drive hub *is* in the way of removing the ball joints. Even if you use a pickle fork remover (which I do not recommend on Nissans), it's still a bit in the way, and you don't want to damage it. Second, given all the labor involved, you might want to give thought to just going ahead and replacing everything under there while you're at it. Here's what I'm replacing (I have shot wheel bearings and bad lower ball joints): Upper ball joints, lower ball joints, inner and outer wheel bearings, wheel seals, brake rotors. Since it's pretty much the same labor to do one as to do all, I figured what the heck, might as well do it right and not have to go in there again for a while. The (simplified) procedure is this: Remove locking hub. Remove locknut from spindle. Remove hub and rotor assembly from spindle/drive axle being careful to remove and suspend the brake caliper so that the brake hose doesn't stretch or break. Pop the balljoints loose from the knuckle. Remove the balljoints from the control arms and remove spindle. You will need to make or buy the special tool to get the spindle locknuts off. As you can see, you have to do quite a bit to get to them. It's a little more involved than some 4x4s, but like all the Jeeps and LRs I've worked on, you might as well replace all the ball joints, wheel bearings and seals, and either replace or resurface the rotors while you're at it.

No, it doesn't add or remove air. The Nissan factory adjustable shocks have a little motor or solenoid inside that changes the valving based on the position of the selector switch.

IIRC if you get the 3.3L out of a Frontier, yes, it should drop right on to your existing lower motor mounts (the brackets on the frame).

I'm assuming that since the 231 is carbureted rather than injected that it's not the turbo 231. Why are you replacing a 145 horsepower engine (the VG) with a 125 horsepower engine (the carb'd 231)? You would also have to install a GM transmission and transfer case as you cannot bolt the Nissan trans to that engine.

You could get the Hardbody right up until the end in 97 with the 2.4L I4 or the 3.0L V6. If you want a 90's LB KC with a 2.4L, you should be able to find one.

Your existing engine is computer controlled fuel injection, just a primitive version of it. Whereas later Pathfinders have multiport fuel injection (one injector per cylinder installed in the intake manifold runners pointing at the intake valves), you have two (I think) fuel injectors in a throttle body (looks like a carb, but it's not) that provide fuel to the entire engine. On your truck, the computer controls (at least): Ignition timing (advance/retard) Ignition firing (whether to fire at all) Fuel injection (how much fuel to input, when to input it, etc.) If you have an automatic transmission, the engine computer talks to the transmission computer to determine optimal shift points and how/when to shift depending on what you're telling the truck to do. Unfortunately, as nobody has yet deciphered the communication protocol for the transmission computer and there is no such thing as a *non* computer controlled 4-speed auto from Nissan, the automatic cannot be used in conjunction with a non-Nissan engine - whether carbed or fuel injected. Also, be advised that many localities have passed laws making the installation of an older engine in a newer car illegal. If this is the case for your area, it means that you can only put an 89-or-newer engine in your Pathfinder. Despite what certain critters from the Southern Hemisphere have said, I do not think that a GM motor is a very good swap for the Pathfinder. In the case of the 4.3, the engine is heavier and less fuel efficient, and in either the 231 or the 4.3's case, you're going to have to do a LOT of fabrication just to make it work. There are no US market kits that I am aware of to do such a swap. Personally, if I was looking to do a swap, I would find a wrecked Frontier with the supercharged VG33 and take its driveline and computers. Or just a regular Frontier with a VG33 and put a Stillen blower on it. It is very nearly a direct drop in and requires minimal modification to the truck. And you're looking at up to 300-350hp with modifications, if you so desire. While it is possible to tweak or reprogram a Nissan engine computer to run another engine, it's generally considered a bad idea and doesn't work well. Generally speaking, it's preferred to take the donor vehicle's computer and use it instead.

It's unclear in the video if he did or didn't. Initially, they threw the line to a shore crew because the tide kept knocking them off the boat ramp they were trying to drive up. It *looked* like once they got it out of the tide it drove out with James May at the wheel, slowly. See for yourself: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8WZEwJZOgA And it was apparently running a few weeks later when they parked the things in the hangar for the show - audience members observed that it drove in under its own power.

I have a sneaky suspicion that the F-350 has a sticking brake or two. The F-350 seems to be suffering from a multitude of problems; it had water in the forward tank, the rear tank pickup wasn't working, the filter is clogged even though it was just replaced last week and there's a diesel leak somewhere...

I used 4 low because it was a straight pull with no significant turns. 4 low is fine on dry pavement if you don't turn the wheels significantly. In addition, I had to get the thing up a hill and it wouldn't move without flooring it in high. You can't tell, but the F-350 is loaded up with metal scrap and lawncare implements. Also, my transfer case will not shift on the move, not into or out of any range.

This is a bit late; I didn't post this earlier because I got busy. The TopGear guys did the Amphibious Car builds again, only this time they tried to cross the English Channel. And this time Jeremy used a Nissan D21 (calling it his "Nissank" as opposed to the "Toyboata" he capsized last time). The only one to successfully make it any distance out of harbor was the D21, and it made it all the way across to France. It was a spectacular performance. Kudos to TopGear and our WD21s' fraternal twin, the D21.

Sorry about the picture quality, all I had on me was my camera phone. The F-350 had a fuel system problem and died two blocks from the gas station. Nothing we did including giving it 5 gallons of diesel worked, so I just towed it. Two blocks. In 4 low. Very slowly. But the PF towed it surprisingly easily.

It gets even better. Ford went after another board for the same thing: http://www.ricehatersclub.com/vbulletin/sh...ead.php?t=25901

Well, consider this. I broke the stock mounts within one month of installing polyurethane swaybar bushings to replace the trashed rubber ones that were either bad or had completely fallen off. I was running 255/70R15 tires. Larger than the original 235/70R15 to be sure, but not as large as the 31x10.5 15 inchers that were optional on the SE. I had not done any offroading of any significance. I hadn't hit any particularly large or nasty potholes. I do drive my vehicles hard (read: sideways) but that shouldn't have caused a problem like this. Nissan thought it was enough of a problem that the replacement parts are significantly stronger and obviously reinforced in problem areas. I think it is worthwhile for those who drive their Pathfinders hard on pavement. As the earlier link shows, none of the hard-core offroaders here (or in my regional forum) have ever seen this happen; this may be something that only shows up in street use with the forces generated by fast cornering. And before I get jumped on by the hard core offroaders: I'm not building a pure mall crawler, either. What I'm making is half cruiser, half serious offroader - an urban assault vehicle that can cruise at high speed, yet flick over to a fire road or trail or bar ditch to get around obstacles.

No, Ford has a history of doing this with forums and others.

Bump for fixed pictures.

Well... considering that it's a 1990 Pathfinder that I drive and that these are going on, I would say that it is very likely that it would.

Update: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17231

What has gone before: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17096 Got the new sway bar mounts in today. Apparently I'm not the only one to have this problem, since Nissan has completely re-engineered the mounts. They made the new lower part of the mount out of *two* much thicker pieces of metal, welded them together to keep them from splitting, and then welded some rod to reinforce the corner that mine broke off at. The uppers are also made of thicker material, so you can't mix and match - you must get the new uppers with the new lowers. The new uppers also have a thicker captive nut welded to the back. If you want to use these on your truck, you will need two lowers, two uppers, and six *new* bolts because of the dimensional changes. Lower Right: 56234-88G00 (MSRP $11.95) Lower Left: 56235-88G00 (MSRP $11.95) Uppers: 56231-41G10 (MSRP $3.90 each) Bolts: 08127-0251E (MSRP $1.38 each) Problem solved! Nice of Nissan to upgrade these... though I have a suspicion that Nissan may have used this design in a Frontier and just passed it down to us.

WD40 is not a penetrant. The only things that are going to work on that are either some of the military/naval penetrants or Kroil (hard to find) or SeaFoam DeepCreep (available everywhere). PB Blaster won't even touch that. Alternately, how much is your time worth? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-TRUC...sspagenameZWDVW Exhaust manifolds for the Z24 are stupidly cheap.