GhostPath

OK, I'll do that. What color's yours? Unless the distributor's been removed and put back, the timing should not need to be adjusted. The computer should handle that. You're getting about 10mpg, I see. You should replace that O2 sensor if you haven't done so in recent memory. Next, replace the coolant temp sensor for the EFI system, then I'd be looking at the cat to make sure it wasn't clogged.

As we all know, you can't expect to buy a used car and not find some problems. Here's what I found on my "new" 90 SE. Minor things I knew about when I bought the thing: Air conditioning is weird, cuts off when it gets really hot outside. Blower housing needs to be cleaned out (think I saw an article about this in the archives). Headlights need to be replaced. Major things that I didn't know about: Transmission lost third gear. Overdrive still works, but third gear went byebye on the drive home even though it had been fine on several test drives. - so I have first, second, and second plus OD. Sway bar bushing *missing* - who makes poly bushings for these? Suggestions would be appreciated.

It's a '90 SE-V6 4x4. Got it home yesterday - now I just have to fix everything that's broken...

93 was the last year for the squarish dash variants. 94 and 95 have the curvy/rounded dash.

Here's an example of what NOT to buy: Note the frame rot there. Here's the entire album. It's from a 92 WD21 that someone tried to sell me for $550. http://www.dallasdrivers.org/gallery/v/ran...rustbucketwd21/

Yes. The most obvious place is going to be on the frame over the rear axle (which is easily visible in the rear wheelwells). It has a nasty tendency to rust out. Here is what it should look like. Take a screwdriver and use the tip to bang on the frame over the axle if you suspect there is any rot. Another place they like to rust out is the floorboards, particularly in the back. Stick your head under the truck and look for rusted floorpans when you take a look at it. Also, check the lower parts of the body, particularly around the dogleg at the bottom of the rear doors and after the rear wheel well. I'm going to upload some pics of one that spent a lot of time in snow country and post a link here in a bit. It should show you where to look.

Not sure about the seats, but the HB taillights don't fit.

Yes and no. The 4 cylinder 4Runners are absolutely indestructible - slow, but they *would* eventually go just about anywhere. Unfortunately, they were the minority; most were the V6 models. While the 3.0/3.4L V6 chassis and running gear are equally durable, the engine is not. In fact, the Toyota truck V6 engine is a huge disappointment - it's difficult to service and it likes to blow headgaskets (usually passenger-side bank towards the rear, and no, Toyota doesn't know why it does that - you can fix it and it will go again a year later). The Tacoma-based 4Runners (post-96 models) even have suspension/chassis issues. The 4 cylinder 4Runner made the name for the model, and it's been coasting ever since. Unfortunately, people seem to think that the V6 models are the trucks that made the name, and they price them accordingly.

IIRC, the bumper and hood should. I don't think the rear flares will.

Word to the wise - when I was a lot younger and a lot dumber, I used Fram oil filters. They collapsed in use, and Fram bought me two Jaguar V12 engines.

If you hit that button, it takes you to this page, http://flag.craigslist.org/?flagCode=30&am...ingID=411548523 : thanks for letting us know! We have sent the ad's poster an email, notifying them that they don't have any contact info listed. Please check back in a while to see if they've updated their ad! I've been hitting that bloody button every day since it was first posted, but the seller hasn't changed his ad.

... or maybe have one for sale? >deleted url< I remember seeing some of these when the WD21 was new, but they've all seemed to disappear with time. I'd buy that one, but the guy posting the ad forgot to list any means of contacting him.

Another issue is that the timing belt *must* be replaced at the recommended interval or the engine will self-destruct. If you do not have concrete proof that the belt has been changed, have it done as soon as you purchase the truck. Something else you should know - on their BEST days, the WD21 4WD Pathfinder got about 15mpg city, 18mpg highway. With the new reformulated gas we have these days, you can knock 10% off that - so about 13.5mpg city, 16.2mpg highway. They're not particularly fuel efficient - so if you want to use it for daily driving, you need to be aware of this. Also notable is the high resale. They do seem to retain their value, which makes finding a screaming deal somewhat difficult. Then again, there's a reason for it - unlike the comparable Toyota 4Runner V6, which appears to retain its value for no apparent reason. For purely maintenance reasons, I would avoid the pre-90 models. They have throttle-body injection systems, which are relatively uncommon in the import automotive world; among the US vehicles using the VG30 engine, only the trucks have this - which restricts the supply of parts somewhat. The 90-up trucks all use conventional port fuel injection, and a lot of the parts are common with the 300ZX, Maxima, 200SX V6, etc., etc.

Just replace it. You should be able to get one from a junkyard for cheaper than that.

It is normal for it to get very hot, but you shouldn't have an overheating issue. Checked your fan clutch lately? It might be new, but that doesn't mean it's not defective. Also, Torqflo isn't exactly the best brand to be using - lots of bad reports about them all over the place. Here's a hint - the BOX is made in the US, but the fan clutch is made in China, and unlike just about everyone else in the market, Torqflo doesn't put contact information on their boxes or anywhere you can find it. This should tell you something.

Last I looked, the O2 sensor for a WD21 is AHEAD of that flange - so the leak is AFTER the sensor. Minus 50 Car Guy Points for you. :tonguefinger: :tonguefinger:

If it was just an exhaust leak, he wouldn't be having the poor fuel economy or poor performance problems.

Your catalytic converter is clogged and needs to be replaced. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAGNAFLOW-D...8QQcmdZViewItem You also need to check your vehicle over thoroughly for other rust issues.

$1585 including tax, title, license, etc., etc., 227K.

There may have been some weirdness under the hood at some point. I'm guessing it got ripped.

Except that it's not really bent. Look at the big pic (warning, 2mb, slowish serer): http://www.dallasdrivers.org/gallery/d/16712-1/IMG_1842.JPG

Checked it out again - went under the car, looked for floorpan rust and such - no rust on the undercarriage.

Console got dismantled by someone who didn't know what they were doing in order to remove the radio. It does have all the parts, though. Not sure what you mean about the valance, though. It's got some sort of a flexible front air dam on it, like the Jeep Grand Wagoneers used to have.

First of all, check to make sure that each pin on the harness connector only rings through to one pin on the other connector. Next, check to see which pin(s) have voltage with the ignition on and the lights off, then with the lights on.

Look inside the adapter end (and the truck wiring harness and see if any of the pins are touching each other.