GhostPath

Looks like one of your studs broke off.

You need the X-pipe to aid scavenging, as you're not going to be able to mount a muffler that close up, not unless you're putting undercabin dumps! Nissan's been putting dual exhausts on cars that would do better with a single for sport models (the market demands it for V-type engines) or because of routing/clearance issues (one large pipe wouldn't fit). I'm not that familiar with your truck's stock layout, got a pic? Finally, I really wouldn't get a Flowmaster. They say "reduces" cabin resonance, not eliminates it. It's also going to restrict flow, see below diagram from their website: Notice the baffles and all the turns the gas has to make. Not all that great. Check out this Magnaflow diagram:

I'd forgotten about that - yeah, that transistor is probably fried, too. The ECU is trying to fire the coil, but the transistor isn't tripping the coil - and it's doing weird things too.

Normally aspirated or single turbo/blower sixes (both V6 and I6) seem to do better with a single larger diameter exhaust. This improves flow and scavenging at the same time. Some of the Z31 (84-89 300ZX w/ VG30) guys tried true duals and the results were not very good - they got better power with a single 2.5" or 3" pipe. You can do duals if you want, but IMHO, it's kind of silly. Unless you have at least four cylinders per bank (or twin turbos), a single will be better.

The easiest way is with a coil tester. That said, the tach can only jump around if the coil is firing. What condition are your plug wires in, and do you have them (and the coil wire) hooked up properly.

Check the coil and then check for blown fusible links.

OK, what *is* your fuel pressure at idle and 3000 rpm? Next, which temp sensor did you replace?

Never EVER use RTV to seal exhaust parts! It'll catch on fire! There are exhaust sealants specifically designed for that. And, yes, you should get them cleaner.

Assuming that your truck came with 245/75R16 tires, your speedometer (and odometer) are now reading 4.1% low - in other words, you are going 4.1% faster/longer than what the car thinks you are doing. You need to add that to your figures. In addition, you have de-restricted the intake and exhaust, which means you flow more air. Which means that in order to keep the engine from running lean, the computer is adding more fuel. That means less mpg.

I would check your fuel pressure, see what it does when you rev it.

Your O2 sensor has probably been poisoned/killed by running so rich for so long. I'd replace it as a matter of course. There should be instructions on how to properly adjust the TPS in that manual. See page EC 144 and adjust your TPS until you achieve the specified resistance.

What RPM did you check the timing at, and did you remember to warm the engine up to operating temp first? Also, is the TPS properly adjusted?

Same deal with ECUs - they supercede. That said, the 91 and the 95 do have the same ultimate part numbers. So they should be the same unit.

Doing the belt is fairly easy. There are many threads on it here on the board - there's one in the How To section at the top of the Garage forum. You should replace the belt, tensioner, water pump, and hoses while you are in there. You need to find out if you have the round or square toothed belt to get the right one; there are aftermarket kits available out there, but I personally prefer replacing everything with genuine Nissan parts. Here's a kit from a dealer: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/mer...ode=WD21-TBKITA To that, I would add a crankshaft timing belt drive gear, two new keyways (also known as Woodruff keys) and two new guide plates for the belt. I find that the pulley and belt guide plates are easy to screw up when doing the timing belt on a VG30, and the keyways are just cheap insurance. All told, from Courtesy or similarly priced dealer, you can get every Nissan part you need to do the job for under $300. See the EC section on the manual I referenced you to earlier - it has the procedure on setting timing. And there's a pic of how it's supposed to be set and what it's supposed to look like. Ignition timing should be 15 BTDC plus or minus 2 degrees.

Should be - or close enough to work, anyway.

Except that then you have limited the automatic adjusment that the computer does. Timing by ear was fine back in the 1960s, when you had points and condensors and merely mechanical or vacuum advance. When a computer is altering the timing, timing by ear is not acceptable. With the Nissan ECCS ignition system, you set the *base* timing of the system, and the computer takes care of the rest. Your base timing has to be accurate, or you'll get pinging/predetonatioon or burn a hole in a piston (worst case scenario)

You cannot time that engine by ear. Timing by ear is imprecise at best. Get a timing light, they're cheap. That's not an idle switch, that's the throttle position sensor, IIRC. Consider investing in a return key, so that your posts are more legible.

I think it's behind the plastic cladding in the cargo area on the passenger side. It should be next to the audio amplifier back there.

You probably blew up the ECU, a bunch of sensors, the LCD clock, the stereo, and the ABS computer. Anything with a computer chip in the car. If you want to try to get it running again, with bare minimum functionality, get an ECU and distributor from that wrecker. Also, get a transmission control computer if you have an automatic, chances are that you zapped that too. Then send your idiot friend the bill for replacing all the computers in the car.

As with that guy down in the 90-95 forum, you probably fried every controller in the car when dude hooked up your battery backwards. Diodes that can stop 600A of negative polarity (which is what you get when you plug in a fully charged battery backwards) are very large and very expensive. You will not find them in any car, at least not from the factory. The most you will find is a sacrificial diode, which pops when more power than it can handle goes through it. Unfortunately, you then have to service the ECU, so your truck won't start anyway.

So, any updates?

Like we told you earlier, you probably have had every single non-resistance-based sensor in that thing shorted out. The CAS would be the next big one - it's the sensor that tells the computer that the engine is turning and when it hits top dead center for cylinder 1, so it can figure out fuelling and ignition. You should be able to just replace the crank angle sensor. It's about $109 from nissanparts.cc. A reman distributor is about $200.

I got two vehicle fire extinguishers from Home Depot ($9.85), which came with mounting brackets. I looked around and found the perfect spot in the car to mount one bracket and unit to - almost like a factory fitment. Accessible through the rear hatch/window or through the rear side door. One hard tug and it's in my hand. Eh... I've been in a few and fought a few. Depends on the car and the nature of the fire. Usually you have 15-30 seconds to get to your extinguisher and put it out - assuming it didn't catch in the oil immediately, in which case you might as well just watch it burn. One in the back ready to hand within 10 seconds should be fine - assuming you have a fire drill for your car and you practice (I do - getting stuck in a burning XJS tends to make you cautious). It is certainly better than nothing. That said, there's really no good place to put one in front (at least in my 93) where it won't either roll around or be awkwardly mounted. I'm going to make a bracket to tie the remaining one in latitudinally between the two front seat mount bolts.

Given the recent vehicle fires both among the board members and here in the Dallas area, I thought it'd be a good idea to install a fire extinguisher in my Pathfinder now, even though it's not running yet. (I normally keep one in each of my operational vehicles anyway.) So... where did you all put your extinguishers?

Magnaflows sound better. And most Flowmasters still have that horrible highway drone/resonance problem.