GhostPath

Measure the speaker, not the bracket.

The numbers won't match. Nissan changed them about every year. I wasn't sure if 95 were OBD-II on Nissans. They are on Jaguars. That said, you can use any MPFI Pathfinder ECU (90-95) in any other MPFI Pathfinder of the same drivetrain - auto trucks need auto computers, manual trucks can actually use either but an auto computer in a manual truck might set an error code - harmless and it won't affect anything. Now, the fuel mappings will be subtly different, but at least your truck will run.

IIRC, it *should*, but it won't support OBD-II.

Yup, far easier to do it with the engine out. You can put it on a stand, flip it over and work on it without having to worry about the pistons and rods falling out.

I suspect that all the different info on what speakers fit is due to the three different audio systems that were available. I have the 8 speaker system. On my 93 XE, 4x6s would NOT fit without adapters; the 4x6 speakers were too small to fit the mounting holes. I got one set of Kenwoods for $59 at a local store, but I got my second set off eBay for $35. They seem to be the ones that fit with the least modification.

Disregard what I said about the Infinity speakers. They didn't work. I got a set of Kenwood KFC-C5780ie, and have half-finished installing them. I'll post this again in a separate post once these are installed. This post is dealing specifically with what can be installed in my truck without creating or using adapters and retaining the completely stock appearance on the outside (the better to discourage theft). Recap: Vehicle is a 93 XE 2WD, ovoid/rectangular speaker grilles, no sign of anything but the base stock audio system (head unit missing). Car has four main speakers, and what appears to be four separate tweeters. First, I found that the fronts were not 4x6, but 5x7. To make matters worse, NOTHING in the CarToys or Earmark car audio store fit directly in the front plastic bracket. The original equipment Clarion 5x7 speakers used a shallow basket, and the brackets are formed accordingly. As others have noted, some 5x7s fit better than others. NONE of the 2007 or 2006 production Pioneer 5x7/6x8s fit into the basket, the hole spacings on them were just wildly off, and even the shallow basket speakers would require an adapter plate to be made to replace the original plastic brackets, because there was no way to make that work. Most current production 5x7s have a larger, wider basket that won't fit quite right. The closest fit I could find was a set of Kenwood KFC-C5780ie speakers. These *almost* fit in the plastic bracket, but they didn't quite fit in - they stuck up about 1/4" and wouldn't properly seat. I modified the original plastic brackets with a Dremel (the originals could still be put back in). In the back, I installed another pair of the Kenwoods. I had to take a tin snips to the bracket area to accomodate the wider basket. They fit just fine now, and I could replace the OEM speakers if I wished to. I could have built a spacer, but then, again, I wouldn't be able to reuse the original speaker grilles, and they would have protruded out into the cargo bay. I'll post pictures later.

Are these for turnsignals or the foglights?

Checked your hood pin switches lately? Also, there's an impact/tilt sensor in these things. Yours may have gone bad.

1: Might be the normal/power switch - in the gas trucks, that changes the shifting pattern for greater performance at the expense of fuel economy. 2 and 3: I think you need to have the gearbox overhauled. 4: Yeah, the Nissan automatics from this era don't seem to be all that great for longevity. Didn't have much luck with them in the 300ZX, either. 5: When towing or carrying a heavy load, you would wish to turn off the OD to keep the engine from either stalling, overheating, or lugging while going up hills, etc. 6: Post a pic! 7: Try a dealership or eBay. I got my manual off eBay. Here's an aftermarket owner's manual for the car: http://cgi.ebay.com/Nissan-Terrano-Pathfin...1QQcmdZViewItem

Try Crutchfield.com, and look in the iPod Adapters area.

Don't the TBI trucks have some sort of idle control mechanisms? Perhaps that has clogged or is not functional? There are plenty of people on here and on eBay with known good working ECUs that want far less than $50 for their ECUs, not $300.

All the steel at Kyushu came from the same supplier, IIRC. *Worldwide*, Nissan had 5 suppliers and cut that down to 2. It is legal here, too - but you have to jump through some hoops with the local motoring control agency/department of motor vehicles to get it titled and registered since the frame and chassis VINs would no longer match - and it would really suck to have the vehicle confiscated as a potential stolen car. As for the floorpan rust, that's a different matter than the frame rust. The floorpan is just a bad design - however, it is not a load-bearing member, and it can be easily repaired with a patch panel or three. The frame rot has to do with salt more than anything else.

The junk inside, as you put it, is also worth 10 years and/or a $100,000 fine if you get caught. And, it's stupid - the difference between a straight pipe (or a hollowed out OEM cat) and a modern free-flow cat is less than ONE HORSEPOWER. Plus a replacement free-flow cat is less than $100 (this one is for 1990-1995): http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku Lets see. It's less than $100 to stay legal, less than 1 hp difference between legal and illegal, and it's 10/100 if you get caught, plus you won't pass a sniffer inspection at all. Personally, I don't think it's worth the risk. Back in ancient times (oh, say, when people used carbs), when there was no such thing as high-flow cats for affordable prices, yeah, it was worth it. Today? I would get the high-flow cat and install it. It's no longer worth the pain in the arse to NOT be legal, and there's no real power cost.

Since the original repair shop did not tell you what had happened or offer you the option of deciding how it should be repaired, I'd say they owe you a new head and the labor to replace it. So, yes, go back there and demand that they fix it. They broke off the stud in the head, then overdrilled it (badly) and threaded it just to get the job done. At this point the proper repair is head replacement. There's a way to jury rig it, but I'd get the head replaced. It's not worth messing with. As for no power, check your valve timing.

Um.... how do you think the computer tells when the engine has warmed up? That sensor, that's how. That also tells it how much fuel to feed on a cold start. The only sensor it ignores in open loop is the oxygen sensor.

That's the water outlet. The black sensor screwed into it is the sensor for the gauge. The yellow one (may be another color if it's original) is the EFI coolant temp sensor and the one that we're discussing.

This would be why I neither live in or buy cars from the Rust Belt. I've seen the salts you use up there eat through a SOLID .5" thick control arm in three years. Down here, cars don't rust out. Let me guess, you live well north of the Mason Dixon line, don't you?

Also, go check out http://www.explorerforum.com/ Lots and lots and lots of people complaining about frame and body rot there. Here's some 94 Explorer pics:

I do not know where it is on the TBI trucks, but if you wait a minute, I'll post up a pic of where it is on the MPFI truck - I suspect it's probably in the same place.

And, as for "They all rust out right away, it doesn't matter what you do," here are pics of my 1993 XE with 255,000 miles on the clock. There's some extremely light surface rust spotting, but NOTHING resembling cancer or anything significant. I tested with a hammer and awl and got nothing but solid metal. If you want to blame someone, blame your municipality for using sodium chloride salts on the roads for traction, instead of a non-destructive method. Like, oh, SAND. Or one of the newer non-car-eating technologies.

Lots of people whining and complaining about rust caused by salted roads. Go check out a Taurus forum. They have similar problems. And I don't want to get into what happens to things with steel as thick as my old Jaguar battleship, the XJ6 - terminal rust in critical areas; and the XJ6 has thicker panels than *anything* GM is shipping these days. This is a problem for a LOT of cars, not just the Pathfinder. I came to Pathfinders from the old Jeep Grand Wagoneers. Guess what? Their HUGE box frames rust through in about the same amount of time, if not less. Grand Cherokees? Same story. The problem is only going to get worse as fuel economy mandates require makers to use stronger, lighter, thinner materials. They make the Yukon here in Dallas - the new Yukon's panels are thinner than the last generation, the frame is now fully hydroformed and thinner as well. Guess what's going to happen in about 10 years up in the rust belt with these rigs?

Sounds like you got water in the coolant temperature sensor or connection to same. Common problem. What it does is tell the computer how cold the engine is, so it can calculate how much fuel to give the engine. If radically far off or out of operational range, it won't know how much fuel to inject. It is possible for an old or improperly installed belt to jump time.

Seconded - I was telling him to check between the MAF wiring harness connector (not the MAF) and the ECU wiring harness connector (not on the actual ECU itself, the connector with all the wires going into it instead).

Even if the PO had installed a Walbro 255 or similar, the fuel pressure regulator would be able to bleed it off to standard operating pressures. The other thing is that the ECU would be throwing "overrich" or "oxygen sensor failure" codes, not "MAF failure".

You can't use some of the older computers, because they used TBI instead of MPFI. Here are some options. eBay is your friend: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1992-Pathfi...sspagenameZWD1V http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-Path...sspagenameZWDVW