GhostPath

No, Ford has a history of doing this with forums and others.

Bump for fixed pictures.

Well... considering that it's a 1990 Pathfinder that I drive and that these are going on, I would say that it is very likely that it would.

Update: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17231

What has gone before: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17096 Got the new sway bar mounts in today. Apparently I'm not the only one to have this problem, since Nissan has completely re-engineered the mounts. They made the new lower part of the mount out of *two* much thicker pieces of metal, welded them together to keep them from splitting, and then welded some rod to reinforce the corner that mine broke off at. The uppers are also made of thicker material, so you can't mix and match - you must get the new uppers with the new lowers. The new uppers also have a thicker captive nut welded to the back. If you want to use these on your truck, you will need two lowers, two uppers, and six *new* bolts because of the dimensional changes. Lower Right: 56234-88G00 (MSRP $11.95) Lower Left: 56235-88G00 (MSRP $11.95) Uppers: 56231-41G10 (MSRP $3.90 each) Bolts: 08127-0251E (MSRP $1.38 each) Problem solved! Nice of Nissan to upgrade these... though I have a suspicion that Nissan may have used this design in a Frontier and just passed it down to us.

WD40 is not a penetrant. The only things that are going to work on that are either some of the military/naval penetrants or Kroil (hard to find) or SeaFoam DeepCreep (available everywhere). PB Blaster won't even touch that. Alternately, how much is your time worth? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-TRUC...sspagenameZWDVW Exhaust manifolds for the Z24 are stupidly cheap.

If they're Texas trucks (easy to check with CarFax) that haven't been near the coast, they won't. My current 90 has 231,000 miles on it and spent its early life in upper MS. It's been in Texas at least 8 years. The frame shows *zero* signs of rust. When I'm in the junkyards, I check frames against windshield sticekrs - 95% of the Texas-tagged trucks don't show any signs of rust whatsoever. Sucks if you live some place they use salt, but if you want a Pathy that doesn't have the problem I suggest the same thing I suggest for Jaguars - buy from Texas, Nevada, or Arizona.

Actually I just figured it out. Being a former Jeep owner, I expected something really stupid like "take door apart, remove window motor, remove everything from door and then maybe you can get the glass out without breaking it." Instead, it was two 10mm bolts, tilt and remove. Specifically, you lower the window all the way with the door panel and mirror off, then raise it just enough to disconnect the two 10mm bolts at the brackets where the window meets the window lift. Lift the window up off the lift, then rock the glass towards the front of the door 45 degrees to disengage it and lift straight up. No idea how it works for the rear doors, but the front ones are easy. I got my window seal replaced, including removal of the glass and replacement, in about 30 minutes.

I'm trying to take advantage of the unexpected warm weather we are having today to replace my cracked and leaking window seal. Anyone know what's involved in removing the window glass from my truck's driver's side? 90 WD21 SE with power windows. I already know that I have to take the door panel and mirror off, what's after that? The 94 PDF manual is no help at all here, and my printed manual hasn't arrived yet, wouldn't you know it.

Better solutions: http://dallas.craigslist.org/car/512535535.html http://dallas.craigslist.org/car/501808528.html

Go to the dealership and order them using the part numbers in the first post. You will probably also need the pushpins that hold them in place as they are probably either already broken or you will break them getting them out. They are part number 66814-01G00; you will need 6 of them. List price is 0.87 each. To summarize, you will need to go to the dealer and order: One each 66814-0S700 One each 66815-0S700 Six each 66814-01G00 And that's all you need to do the job properly.

I have no idea how to pull the bottom part of the box, though it looks like it may just be clips. Once you clean the leaves out and spray down the interior of the casing with alcohol to kill the mold, that should be enough to keep your truck from catching on fire. Well, that and either fitting these new vents or putting screening behind the old ones to prevent the leaves from coming back.

17 years of leaves in my blower casing: I recently started smelling smoldering vegetation, and was going to clean out the box anyway when the car wash excised my cowl vent. It only takes a few minutes to get to this point, once you figure out that the lower glovebox hinges are pullpins. And yup, my blower resistor pack was showing signs of scorching and such.

Sagging torsion bars will not cause this. Bad shocks won't generally cause this. You have something else wrong.

Yeah, "anti-sway" is really a misnomer. It's really an "anti-roll" bar; it keeps the car from leaning or rolling the body to the outside of a turn and thus transfers "weight" to help keep the car from rolling over. The primary control mechanism for sway in the back is the panhard bar, the thing attached to the axle that runs parallel to it, and is connected to the frame at the other end. However, as others have pointed out, if your frame is shot due to rust (common problem in your area), this will no longer work and you have other, more serious problems. Such as needing to either have the frame repaired or needing to find another truck or frame. If your frame is OK, check the panhard bar, then check the bushings on all four trailing arms. These are the four bars that run parallel to the frame that attach to the frame and the axle. Also, check for bodged welding of studs and fastening points for everything on the rear axle.

Nissan actually is one of the record holders for "most asinine spark plug location." Want to change the spark plugs on a first-gen Q45? Step 1 is "remove the engine."

Oh... drifting sideways around freeway "cloverleaf" offramps comes to mind. I *do* have poly bushings on the sway bar, though.

No, the KA24 was the replacement for the twin-spark Z24/Z24I.

Well, mine patently aren't, and I haven't gone offroading at all with the truck, aside from using a "Texas Exit" or three.

Yup, both of them. 231,000 miles and hard street driving will do that, I guess.

My 90 WD21 has 231K on the clock and yesterday the suspension started clanking when I went over bumps. Today I pulled some maintenance time and investigated.... New ones are on order now. I haven't even done any serious offroading yet!

These guys are based in the US, do fantastic work for other cars. As I understand it, they're looking for a Pathfinder owner to help them out in making repair panels: Wolf Steel - http://www.alfaparts.net/

This may have been posted before, but I couldn't find it. We all know about how leaves can get past the cowl grilles on the WD21s. They get into the internal air intake, go into the blower casing, accumulate and eventually either kill the blower or catch on fire when the blower motor resistor pack gets hot. Also, they tend to crack, break, and fly off. Well, Nissan has recently issued a set of update parts. The new grilles are about $20 each and incorporate several improvements to fix these two problems. New part on top, old broken-and-reglued part on bottom. The new grilles cost about $20 each (cheaper than some used ones I've seen) and they are cast/molded differently. They incorporate gridding between the big grille vanes for added strength and to keep all but the smallest leaf bits out. US driver's side part number is 66815-0S700; passenger side is 66814-0S700. It will come up in the catalog as a "special service part". A car wash removed mine, so I had to replace it. I am very pleased that Nissan decided to fix this problem with the trucks.

I just picked up a set of 16" wheels from a guy who just rebuilt the Z24 I4 engine in his 88 Pathy. This was in Texas, so they're rare but out there.

They are night and day better than stock, yes. There is no need to upgrade your bulbs - though they come with new standard-9004-type Philips bulbs. You *can* then upgrade the bulbs using a real HID system if you want, or you can use SilverStar Ultras if you want to change the color of the light. These housings fix the diffusion and pattern problems of the stock housings. The next time I get together with the local Nissan truck club, I'll do a side-by-side comparison of stock beams versus this: