PATHRIDER

Got yah Bud...I had a buddy guiding the socket from underneath probably why we had a hard time.Thanks B

Thanks bud. Ill set it at 15..plug is gaped at .032..Do I have to do anything with the ecu to program the timing or will it automatically detect it?

come to think of it maybe I shouldve used wobble extension instead of the one like a u joint then I wont need anybody underneath trying to get the socket to mate up with the bolts It might be easier if its got a body lift though coz when I did the transmission I could barely see those 2 bolts with the motor and transmission sitting too close to the floor even going through the shifter

I was thinking of cutting a couple of 2inch hole on the floor just above the shifter when I did my wifes transnission so I can access it from above coz it took me a long time to get those 2 top bolts out without having to use long extensions flex extensions and somebody underneath the truck guiding my socket on those bolts For you guys who did the swap, Did you take the whole front end off like the radiator support bumper and what have you

Any tricks on getting the 2 bolts up on top where the transmission mounts on the motor..When I replace the transmission on my 94 those 2 bolts are the a pita to remove

where do you guys set your timing at? I use borg warner caps and rotors and according to the parts guy at napa it has a lifetime warranty

Why cant you just remove the 3 bolts on the collector pipe?

Im going to have to bleed the front again today just to be on the safe side ..luckily i have the wife today to do the pumping..lol gravity bleed the RR then LR ..then the ABS unit and move forward and do the traditional bleeding on the RF then LF

looks good simon..bet you cant even tell it was fixed after running a grinding wheel and painted black

Thanks B . The last method that I was taught when I did my front brakes was to take the mc lid of and when I depress the the pistons itll bleed the brakes. This is the first ive heard of these method, Ive always bled my brakes the old fashion way. Im going to try this this afternoon..seems easy enough...Now do I bleed the abs unit last after doing RR and LR?and is it the same procedure as doing it on the calipers? Sure appreciate this guys

Does it rot on the other side of the frame also or just on the outside behind the tires?

This site is better than google

Your floorboard might be all rusted too

You know im going to be asking hows that done B ..worth giving it a try..THANKS BUD

Thanks bud. Im going to try and switch the abs module from my 93 to that 94 and if that doesnt work ill start trouble shooting from the sensor and so on..Reason why I though that it was the module coz when we bought it the guy who is also a mechanic at a local dealership here mentioned that the module was bad and he said it was in the rear quarter panel? so now after realizing that it was under the seat he might just be guessing on that problem

thats a possibility. I remember when I took off the the warn that was originally on the 94 pathy I used it together with the warn hubs on my hardbody and the hubs on the hardbody with the o ring went on the 94 pathy. It clicked on there when I snapped it in place nice and snug. I even made sure that it sits on the groove and flush all the way around

Hey guys what would cause the abs lights to stay on? when we bought my wifes truck a few years back its always been on and now just finding the time to work on some of the stuff that ive been putting off for a while now. Replaced the pads and shoes last november. I remember seeing a post by a member asking what the black box is under the drivers side and greg mentioned that its for the abs, My 93 has that same black box covered with that black steel plate and I dont think my 93 pathy has abs Its not the factory alarm box Could the abs module be bad thats why the abs lights is always on? Thanks fellas

Thanks guys.Removed thee auto locking hubs yesterdsay and sure enough Brake A is damaged so as the spring I am pretty sure that when I reinstalled it I checked the tcase to see if its in 2H andd backed it up about 10 feet in our back alley to make sure it disengages out of 4H if it is prior to me installing the factory auto hub. It couldve been on 4H knowing my wife. The lights wasnt on in the dash though after I reinstalled the factory hubs and I have backed it up a few times. Another thing that puzzled me is why would it almost shred the inner components of the auto hub. I took it for a drive yesterday and it seems to be fine. I took Brake A off and left everything on there.I dont know if im installing it wrong but this is the second time ive had problem with the auto hub on her pathy..First time was a grinding noise so I replaced it with a used one from the jy and did the same thing so I decided to put a warn on there and it worked flawlessly , now this shappened again. I am just going to put a warn on there and leave it alone Heres a pic of the almost shredded bRAKE a COMPONENT

Its on 2H..I double checked when I pulled on the side of the road..This time it shifted from 2H to 4H then neutral and 4L. The green light on the dash came on soon as I pulled the t-case shifter down

where would the ground be for the ecm on the intake? Is it that 2 ground wires just in front of the fuel rails?

Hey guys sorry for all the questions for the past few weeks.been working on my 93 pathy a 92 hardbody and my wifes 94 also..Its one thing after another a couple of days ago I replaced my wifes warn locking hubs with the factory auto locking hubs and put that warn on the hardbody since thats going to be her main transportation. I took her 94 with the factory hubs this afternoon and after driving for about 15 mins I felt this loud thud or jolt that it felt like I ran over something or the transmission fell off, i looked back to see if theres anything on the road that I might have ran over and nothing.I pulled over to the side of the road and checked underneath and everything seems to be in tack..Drove another 5 mins and parked at o reilys parking lot to pick up some parts. It didnt do it on the way home but I was driving about 25mph on a 35mph road. Could it be that the auto hubs are trying to engage even I dont have the tcase on 4H? could I have installed it wrong? Is there a way to disable the auto hubs completely? Thanks Fellas heres how i reinstalled it in order..Number 4 would be the o ring clips not shown

Great idea there my1...Im going to watch this post and do the same thing on my pathy soon as I get it running

will applying contact grease on it help?

get a chevy or ford..and its DUAL not duel

I kinda figured it has an overlay for looks..cool design though