CDN_S4

Did you end up using longer bolts or did you reuse the OEM bolts? I was planning/hoping to reuse the OEM ones. They came out completely rust free, still covered in locktite from the factory. So far I've ordered the 10M and 8M rivet nuts, the rivet nut tool and grommets. I am planning on locating the license plate to the trunk as those that have the carrier from factory, but instead of the big bulky OEM frame, I will just use a spacer in the back to make up for the uneven surface and use an LED license plate light that I bought for my spare carrier where it is currently mounted.

Did you require a special tool to insert the rivets? Their website talks of a "tool" which links to a variety of tools. Can you just run me through the actual hole drilling and riveting process? Seems simple enough but I don't wanna mess anything up. Also, can you insert the link for the other rivets, the 8mm ones for the 3 bumper pieces? Thanks buddy!

While I was at the JY, there are 4 good donor vehicles for me that have pretty much all the parts I'll ever need. I just recently had my dad for a visit and he had a hard time getting in and out of the truck and that I should install a handle. Well I took a rear one out of an 02 SE and mounted it in my front passenger A pillar. I didn't measure properly the first time, which means I ended up cutting out 2 big chunks to seat the handle flush against the pillar. It's not very "pretty" so I might just go grab a new piece of trim to make it nicer. The rest of the day was spent prepping the rear swing out bits and pieces for paint. Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

Next project: OEM tire carrier retrofit. First this will need some TLC to get looking new again. Then some blind nuts and drillavaganza to mount it all up.

Patrick, where did you get your blind nuts from? I can't find any locally. I will have to order online. I just want to make sure to get the same ones as you have. I found a carrier on a JY and picked it up for $40 CAD. All I need is the blind nuts. Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

See my pic above of the Bilstein shock packaging. That gives you the info for the 5" longer shocks. And yes, relocating the mounting of the shocks on the axles would work too. Just makes me wonder why most car manufacturers that use this type of setup always seem to mount them low like this? Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

While the 3 prong ring in its proper position and the bulb seated in the ring causes the diodes to be sideways, it is possible to fit the ring in a way that will allow the bulb to sit with diodes up and down. Unfortunately the bulb doesn't fully lock in the seat in this case or else it would ait diagnonally. This seems to me like a manufacturing / design flaw. Or this happens on some vehicles but not on others that use the H4 type assembly. However all said and done, I managed to adjust the bulbs and they seem to be seated well enough. Time will tell. It's really hard to see in the light but the low and high beams now work as intended. Yeah I've got a messy garage lol Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

this is exactly what I'm thinking too, and I found out that's how it is meant to be. The thing is, when I inserted the 3 prong seat that the bulb then clicks into with a quarter turn, they always ended up sideways. Only explanation I have is that the 3 prong seat (which is supposed to fit only one way) actually fit in the wrong way, causing the bulbs to lock in place half a rotation too far.

Found my own answer. Good read for anyone interested in this mod. http://betterautomotivelighting.com/2014/02/23/a-first-look-at-the-new-led-headlight-conversion-kits/ Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

Can you take a close up picture of your bulbs? Mine have diodes on 2 sides, one side for low and one side for high beam. When seated properly the diodes are on the sides of the bulb. This doesn't seem to add a lot of range to the high beam, just brightens the low beams. I tried to rotate them so that the diodes are up and down but didn't get them to sit right. Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

I've done the exact same thing with mine too! There was a LOT of dirt and debris in that box that got blasted straight into the cabin. I would definitely recommend this to anyone with a base model.

JY= Junk Yard

I've always wanted to pull an overhead console from the JY. There is a pretty detailed DIY thread on here somewhere. Based on what I saw, I was deterred in attempting it. Seemed quite tricky. But I would be curious to hear/ see how you did it. As for the heated seats, never tried it, sorry can't help.

My Halogens were upgraded OSRAM Nightcrawler or Nighthawk or something like that and they did not provide as much range as the current LED's. The question that remains is how these hold up over time and if they are blinding to oncoming traffic. Given the height of my Pathy, I pretty much blind any car, regardless of bulb, however, I haven't had anyone flash their high beams at me yet. I've only had limited night time driving so far. But again, given the low cost of these bulbs, it isn't a big deal to experiment with. Personally I love them so far.

Other than upgrading the bulbs in them, or converting them to LED or HID, the only thing, and possibly best option is to tear them out and put aftermarket "off-road " LED's in there. This might take some customization, but that's the name of the Game when you own an R50! Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

Pretty much my thoughts exactly buddy. The light output is good but the high beam is pretty much useless on mine. Also no way to adjust them. I was able to get the weather seals back over but it was a pain in the butt and I'm not sure it will stay put. I do think they should have an air escape due to the heat build up so in itself as long as you song drive through hood deep water, should be fine. But as a daily driving light, especially in the winter months, I think it's worth it. Especially given the affordable cost of these. Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

It was Aliexpress I think it was called Light in the Box. There are MANY to chose from on the Internet. Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

CDN_S4

No that's the 3.75 BS

^^ that's probably the most common setup on R50's so you will find plenty of photos of that. Even just a Google search will show you. This is mine with 2" lift and 31's last year. Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

Since my last post on here is all screwed up due to crapatalk, and is out of date, here is another post of my setup: 1999 XE 15x8 Pro Comp Rock Crawler steelies 33x12.5 R15 Goodyear Duratrac tires 4"SFD plus OME HD in the front 6" WJ coils in the back with Bilstein shocks (33-185569 // 5125 Series) 1.75" Rugged Rocks wheel spacers Trimmed front fenders - untouched rear fenders Pacer universal fender flares.

simply get a soft 8 or rock crawler rim with 3.75" BS. This will provide sufficient strut spacing and is the most commonly found BS size. And if you ever needed or wanted wider, you can always add wheel spacers. If you get what you said above for dimensions and sizes, then you will sit like Ferrariowner and need to trim just a tad of the fender liner as the 31's will rub at stock height. A quick google search will provide you the answers to your other query: http://www.4wheelparts.com/tire-wheel-package-guide/wheel-offset-backspacing.aspx

To be honest, these are better than expected. In combination with my other LED's which are pretty much aimed at the ground, the total light produced is quite awesome. Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

This pic is without the off-road lights This is with them on Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

I didn't. Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk