hawairish

Have you tried a binder clip? You basically need something to pinch the area where the rod goes into the visor, since this is what controls the sun visor folding down.

Right on, man. Glad the trip went well! I just noticed in your pic of the full air bag...the black puck looking thing is the cut foam you were talking about? The top of that piece doesn't look like the OE bumpstop at all. Maybe that's why we had the apple-orange discussion on the other thread? The OE piece has a steel base whose diameter is slightly larger than the rubber connected to it. Yours looks rounded up top, no? (Not that it's relevant, of course.)

For some reason, this stood out the second time I read it. I feel like I had this exact problem on my 98 Frontier once, but it didn't have any light control whatsoever (and only two doors). I can't recall what I did to fix it, let alone if it really happened. I remember once messing with the door jamb switches on the Frontier, but I can't remember why...might have been to wire an alarm to the switches. I may be getting things crossed up because I've actually been looking at the door switches recently because of mod I just completed. But I swear, I had some odd problem like that once. By chance, is there an aftermarket alarm tied into the door switch as a trigger??

Gear oil has an LSD additive? Sounds like some of the pieces may in fact be broken. I have both LSD and open H233B diffs, as well as Lokka'd and open R200 diffs in my garage at the moment. I also have a full H233B axle. What would you like to see? I don't really feel like taking the LSD apart to be honest...I've taken it apart more times than I care for already. But, I could easily get some pics of what I've got and pull in some pics from the internet to describe everything one might need to know about rebuilding or swapping them. Candidate for a How-To?

Actually, just noticed that there's some conflicting info regarding the switches in the parts diagrams I use. The fronts are the same, but different from the rears (rears are the same). Maybe something is still crossed up?

I know you've ruled out the switches, but if I'm not mistaken, the LH and RH switches are actually different part numbers. Have you tried swapping any around?

Here we go!... Yup. The H233B doesn't use shims either; it has side adjusters that you twist to set lash. Rugged Rocks sells a tool...I ended up making my own out of scrap aluminum channel and rivets...though I guess I never updated that thread, did I? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40242-h233b-side-bearing-adjustment/ Yup. All the R50s are weak compared to other Nissan configs that have existed. But eventually, even X and Frontiers wussed out. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40280-was-the-factory-lsds-breakaway-torque-any-good/?p=758726 Again, no shims per se, but the stacks are thickened by using 'adjusting' pieces that you exchange with existing pieces (MY1PATH ground down extra pieces to essentially create a shim). Different H233Bs had different plate/disc combinations and thicknesses of those parts. Check the table in the above link. On my diffs (I rebuilt two of them), I not only changed the plate/disc ratio, but I also thickened things up. At some point, I was well over 300 ft-lbs, but it was beyond what I could measure. If you need a gear change...just swap the entire 3rd member in! That's it...however...you're limited to only R50 front diffs if you do. That essentially means only 4.363 or 4.636 gears (and in greenda3's case, there's no point). R&Ps from any other R200 are low-pinions; R50s use high-pinions. The gears aren't interchangeable, and neither is the entire axle. 01-04 X/Frontiers had 4.363 and 4.636 gears like the R50 (older R50s had 4.636, newer 4.363, btw). You could get aftermarket gears (at $500/set!), but you'd need absolute confirmation that they're cut specifically for an R50 axle, otherwise you'll be thoroughly pissed when you try to install the carrier into the case and realize they can't mesh. But yes, the nice part about having an existing LSD is that it may be a parts donor for the implant LSD, particularly if any thinner pieces are used, any pieces are worn, or if the plate/disc ratio isn't optimal (but this isn't the case for any "good" LSDs). In the case of R50 LSDs, you will definitely have friction plates that have seen no wear because there isn't a friction disc between them. Those make for perfect replacements. You'll want a micrometer (calipers work) to check for nominal thicknesses. A donor might cost as much as new plates and discs (~$30/ea) to rebuild/re-pack your current LSD...but at this point, I think I may have exhausted the national inventory of thicker pieces, so consider finding a donor. Nope, TJM also makes an air locker. Personally, I like the TJM from a mechanical perspective, and it's also a little cheaper. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/39656-tjm-pro-locker Word on the street is that the lunchbox locker from SteeevO at RR is still a real possibility. I had expressed interest to him a few months back about buying a several of them if it meant helping meet any production quotas. I want to see that product come alive. I owed him a phone call to discuss it, got caught up in some heavy work travels and hours, and I flaked (sorry Steven!). I'd still like to commit to that, but I need some other projects completed to free up the budget. (Good story, bro.) The 00-02 X or 01-02 Frontier H233B is the best off-the-shelf option. Spec'd at 138-180 ft-lbs and available in R50 gear ratios. If any pieces are the "thinner" pieces, the donor will improve those numbers. I tried to find one locally, but came up short for availability and price. I took a chance on an 03 X, and it ended up being the worst scenario to start with. Fortunately, it had the wrong gears so I was able to exchange it for an R50 axle that was a little better (and I bargained for a $50 discount for the exchange hassle).

Don't get me wrong: I don't doubt they produce different shocks. But when a leader in suspension lifts is partnered with a leader in shocks, and the focus is a Nissan truck, the question to ask is "How different?". When I say that Rancho = Monroe, I mean that you have no way of knowing what sort of differences they've made for us, mainly because they've proven they don't care to make a difference. I'd hope there's a difference between their 5K's and Reflex lines beyond white and red vs. silver, but I don't know. Then again, chances are that we're all running a shock not specifically designed for our trucks, so this becomes even more subjective. I'd like to hear more about the OP's preference, truck configuration, and why Rancho or Monroe is in the discussion while KYB and Gabriel aren't. I've not run the latter two, but my impression is that they're better for DD use.

FYI, Ranchos are Monroes. I run Monroe Reflex...a little too firm for my liking.

Do you have Part-Time (separate shifter) or Auto (knob under radio) 4wd? Is it always on, or comes on randomly?

Have you checked the FSM's component description by chance? It'll tell you all the scenarios and when power or ground is supplied, and to which terminals. It also has the wiring schematic. You should be able to probe them. FSM's are available here: http://forums.nicoclub.com/pathfinder-qx4-general-information-and-q-a-t549378.html Judging by the system description (check the EL section for "Interior, Spot, Vanity..."), there are multiple grounds for the LH FR switch when the door is open. Might need to do some continuity checks. The FSM also (amazingly) has several pages dedicated to testing the timer circuit...probably not related, but I'd take a look at some of the individual steps. Good luck, and welcome aboard.

Just pull one from an early X/Frontier and swap the ring gear over. It'd have been a whole lot easier. But yes, I just rebuilt a pair of them (several times) to see what numbers I could end up with...after driving it around on dry and wet pavement, it feels awesome. Open diff and 4.363 to LSD and 4.636. Huge difference. Also, your project is coming along nicely! That bumper is slick!

So, be real cautious about pulling anything that might be missing parts. I'd look up prices and availability before pulling anything, otherwise your search will continue elsewhere and cost more. Some new parts cost more than what you'll pay for the entire carrier! Parts for the newer carrier seem to be far more expensive, too. I had to buy a new latch assembly for one, but that was surprisingly only $20. The plastic hinge covers are $150/ea! The bolts that hold the latches can be reused with the blind nuts I referenced; the 10mm that hold the hinge bracket have a finer pitch than what I could find, though, so I didn't re-use those. But, I kept them anyway. Also, in addition to the carrier, I'd suggest pulling the license plate offset bracket and wiring if you have the same R50 generation (pre- vs facelift). The tire will obviously block the entire license plate and lighting. I think I mentioned it earlier, but they have license plate LED bars...you could tap into the low-level brake lamp lead behind the taillight and not have to drill any holes...there's clearance along the taillight housing and you can just run it up the carrier frame wherever you mount the license plate. On a side note...if you don't plan on using the OE license plate holder and wiring, I'd be very interested in paying to have it pulled for me if it's from a newer R50...the lift gates are slightly different on older models, btw, and different from QX4. The raised metal pattern appears to be the only difference. Though I don't think the QX4 ever had the option.

My kid dropped one of those plastic hotel room key cards down my door that was making a noise you describe. Probably not what happened to you. But my symptons matched your descriptions, so I'm guessing something loose in the door. Some guy posted this up at NiCO about a noise in his door: http://forums.nicoclub.com/what-is-this-inside-my-door-t601251.html I replied with some info about the part. I had my door apart the other day (to get that key card) and couldn't see a part like that in mine..or maybe wasn't looking at the right angle.

Also yesterday, wired up the tire carrier switch for my retro mod, and replaced all the weatherstripping on the fender flares. Ten years in the AZ sun made the OE smooth silver turn bubbly brown. Now, rubbery black. It's also amazing how much packed dirt came out of the rear flares...I couldn't tell how it could even get in there! And, gave it a wash with help from my toddlers.

Yeah, the gap is a little more than I'd like; but I'm going to see how well AirLift's suggestion works. The thicker plastic (Tap Plastics sells some thicker ABS and HDPE sheets that I've used before) and a socket bolt was actually the direction I was going to go; funny you mention it.

Probably wouldn't do any harm. I just have a mental problem with it because it's a much smaller contact area. And if the cut isn't level, then contact pressure also increases. A cut bump stop wouldn't be sharp or rigid enough to rupture the bag I'm sure, but possibly enough to cause undue wear. I'm sure I'm overthinking it (as I tend to do). I don't know enough about the air bags to know how well they'd respond to that, but I'd be certain that a larger flat surface would be better in the long run.

I've been emailing with AirLift about suitable options for lifted R50s. One thing they've pointed out to me is that there should be a gap between the upper perch and air bag... The bags in the kits are 4.9" diameter and 6" (60742) and 9" (60810). They said kit 60819 has the same 6" bags, but includes spacers (height not provided...I don't think they're more than 0.25" insulators). However, that kit is for a Ford Edge/Lincoln MKX and appears to be more expensive. I measured 7.5" available space between perch and extended bump stop mount on my setup. They still recommended the normal 60742 kit. They also reiterated that the bags should be inflated to 35psi before loading up the vehicle, then adjust the pressure down as needed.

I think we're talking about the same thing, right? So if you cut the rubber off this, you're left with a metal backing disc. And that's a lot of work. The area where this mounts on the chassis is extremely reinforced--it's the same area as the upper spring perch. The area bears the load of the vehicle, plus any shock force from the axle travelling into the bumpstop. You can see the spring perch and the multiple metal welded pieces that comprise the area by looking over the rear tires. I just need to translate that area down the height of my spacer; that's where the body lift spacer and 1/8" steel disc come in.

Happy trails!

That's my concern: the kit alone isn't designed for vehicles with lift. It'll help with sagging, but only after most of the lift is consumed by load...which could be a good amount with the OMEs. The instructions AL gives are kind of strange, but they only instruct cutting the bumpstop on Toyota Sequoias as far as I can tell. You can just remove them instead of cutting them, as Precise1 mentioned. Plus, I just replaced them in Dec. and they were nearly $50/ea...not cutting those. My solution for the above-the-spring is pretty simple...my bumpstop extensions are just 2"H x 3"Dia body lift blocks and longer bolts. I'll keep the block in place, but replace the OE bumpstop with the 4" dia. steel disc. That way the air bag won't be inside the spacer. But I'll still need/want a taller bag to help the OMEs.

Sway is also a load on a spring, not terribly different than load in the cargo area. A sway bar attempts to pull down the chassis on the inside of a turn; a stiffer spring (like what's created by the air bag) attempts to push up the chassis on the outside of a turn. The sway bar is probably more effective in this scenario, but at some point, stiffer springs will naturally resist roll. Plus, anti-sway is a selling perk on the AL website. But I doubt they'd advocate removing the sway bar. With stiffer springs, it's probably different, especially since a few guys without the kit but with springs have said they don't really notice a difference. If that's the case, not sure it could worsen that setup. You know me, though...I'll find out soon enough!

Resurrecting this thread a little... So I'm consider the Air Lift 1000, too. For anyone who's using it, did you also remove the sway bar? Or if it was already removed, did the kit restore any anti-sway characteristics? If so, then I can abandon the sway bar disconnects project and pull the bar. Linkinpark suggested that kit 60810 (for 2005+ Pathfinders) is 3" taller. I'm confirming that with Air Lift. Also, if you run an above-the-spring spacer like me, then the chassis area where the air bag would make contact with is a little guarded by the spacer. I'll be repurposing my bumpstop extenders to bring that contact surface down by removing the bumpstop and putting a steel disc on the extender. Of course, I still need air bags to help offset the OMEs. Since my truck sits almost level now (slight rake), hopefully the 60810 is the answer. This should allow me to run at my current stance (which I like) with low PSI, a little more rake with medium PSI, and load-handling rake with high PSI.

Thanks guys, glad you like it. Also, I have a few other suggestions for those considering the project: I bought an Astro Pneumatic 1427 blind nut tool (~$40). You can make a basic tool using simple parts and set them manually, but it's a more work and may produce inconsistent results. And you'll be doing a few of them. I have a few other projects that I can use the 1427 for, and it's worked well for me already (also used it on the motor mounts and skid spacer for my SFD). It has mandrels for M6, M8, M10, and M12 coarse thread blind nuts. You can obviously go the Standard route; hardware is cheaper and easier to find. But, I'm a metric guy when I have the choice. Don't buy from Fastenal. Those guys suck. They couldn't even get an order for 10mm washers right, and they kept sending me the wrong blind nuts. Couldn't tell you why I didn't go through McMaster-Carr first. The blind nuts are a little hard to find locally, at least in my case. I went to several local hardware stores, and only one even stocked any blind nuts, but they were too small or stocked in very low quantities. McM-C has them (they're listed as rivet nuts, btw); you'll want 95105A199 (M10) and 95105A191 (M8). These are zinc-plated steel with a low grip-range and large flange...be sure to get these features. These need a 13.5mm or 17/32" drill bit. I had the advantage of being able to remove the lower hinge bracket for mocking up placement and punching marks. Since the hinge brackets don't normally come off, you'll need help holding the carrier in place. To lighten the load a little, I'd remove the part that actually holds the wheel from the carrier's frame. Plan on punching then drilling 1-2 holes first, then mocking up placement again, then punching and drilling 1-2 more holes, then mocking up placement again...until all holes are drilled. The hinge brackets have wiggle room, but if some of your holes aren't exactly where you want them, you'll consume that wiggle room quickly. I recommended starting with the outer holes on the lower mount. Also, I'd complete the holes for the lower mount first...that way you can have it support the carrier for finishing the upper holes. Be mindful of keeping it level when it's in the closed position before drilling too many holes. For cutting the bumper, I have a wannabe Dremel and hand wand. I used painters tape to set lines, and cut-off wheels specifically for plastics to make quick work of things. A utility knife is good for getting the corners, then a flat file to clean things up. Any other questions, feel free to ask. I thought about doing a build thread, but I think this content is best kept here so people are aware of the OE reinforcement.

So this is where I say something absurd like, "do at your own risk" and "may the force be with you". It'd also be foolish to not think that the factory reinforcement is there for a reason. But yes, I did not add any reinforcement. I attempted to get proof tonight of its strength, but let me tell you how difficult it is to get a selfie hanging/standing on a tire carrier. If you want pics of my feet on it, then I have that shot. Also, the tire carrier itself weighs somewhere around 50-60 lbs., so I can say that it'll definitely support over 350 lbs when open. If I have any concerns, it'd be the carrier opening up too quickly and the inertia causing the lower hinge bracket to torque and indent the quarter panel. The upper hinge bracket has nothing that stops the carrier when opening, only the lower bracket does. But, the area where the lower bracket mount is also probably the most structurally-sound area of the quarter panel, simply because of the shape. Additionally, my hinge pin setup allows me to put additional tension on the hinges, so it takes more effort to open it and close it. I'm toying with the idea of putting a lift gate strut between the upper mount and carrier to control the motion and act as an limiter on the upper mount.